Updates available for E-Lockers for Dana 44

[Creeker]

On my JLR, thinking about regearing.
While things are opened up, thinking about upgrades.

Current setup

• Factory Dana 44's
• (Front: Artec truss system all ready installed)
• (Rear: RK Long arm conversion)

Wish list for the Factory Dana 44

• E-Lockers: (Eaton?) to replace factory lockers
• Axles: 35 spline with FAD delete RCV's
• Gears: Dana 4.88s or 5.13s

Is this above possible?

With regards to the lockers
Some say that the factory lockers are OK, but there are better products out there (e.g., Eaton E-lockers)
Really don't want to go with Air Lockers
Ox Lockers are amazing (Have them on my CJ). Just cannot convince my self to run those shift cables on a JL

Any thoughts?

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[ChattVol]

On my JLR, thinking about regearing.
While things are opened up, thinking about upgrades.

Current setup

• Factory Dana 44's
• (Front: Artec truss system all ready installed)
• (Rear: RK Long arm conversion)

Wish list for the Factory Dana 44

• E-Lockers: (Eaton?) to replace factory lockers
• Axles: 35 spline with FAD delete RCV's
• Gears: Dana 4.88s or 5.13s

Is this above possible?

With regards to the lockers
Some say that the factory lockers are OK, but there are better products out there (e.g., Eaton E-lockers)
Really don't want to go with Air Lockers
Ox Lockers are amazing (Have them on my CJ). Just cannot convince my self to run those shift cables on a JL

Any thoughts?

Are you wanting to stay on 37s or go bigger? That's alot of $ to spend on stock axles to replace your perfectly good e-lockers with different e-lockers and going to 35 spline shafts. I've been wheelin with a friend several times running RCV's on 40s with stock rubi axles and they've held up so far on some tough climbs that I wouldn't attempt on 37s. Time will tell. I do think RCV's are a solid upgrade if you like the skinny pedal or if you're running tires bigger than 37s. However, selling the stock axles for $3500 and going to d60s makes alot more sense long term vs. dumping a boatload of $ into stock axles adding trussing, new lockers, regearing, 35 spline shafts.

Regearing is a no brainer with the 6 speed on 37s or bigger if you're going to keep the stock axles. I ordered 4.88 a week ago to stay on 37s and then switched to 5.13 bc I may end up on 38s and read where 4 people on here on 37s have gone to 4.88 and wished they went 5.13. Haven't seen anybody go to 5.13 and wish they went 4.88.

 

[wibornz]

Put me in the I love 5.13 gears crowd. I see 8th gear all the time. I turn 2100 rpms at 70 mph with 37s.

I did twist a stock rubicon axle somewhere in Moab or on the Rubicon Trail. I replaced the rear axles with Yukon HD axles.

 

[Creeker]

ChattVol and Wibornz,

Thx for the great info.
I like the 37's, but more pumpkin clears is a good thing.
May 38's... hmmm 40's sound good too.

Very true, its a bunch of $ to put into stock D44's

I would love to install D60's, but that's a start of a very slippery Jeep slope :D

D60's... well go big or go home... Currie axles
D60's should be eight lug, then new wheels which all equals more weight.
More weight, 4 or 6 piston dual sided brake calipers, sure why not.
Well, with all that extra weight, time of a Hemi?
Will the stock manual gear box hold up a Hemi?
And of course some really strong drive shafts.

That list above gives a new meaning to Just Empty Every Pocket.

This Jeep thing is one crazy ride.
Just trying not to go down a steep slope to which there is no recovery

 

[Gorilla57]

I'm part of the crowd that went 4.88 with 37's and wished I went 5.13's because the Jeep shifts a little bit too much at highway speeds. I've said before, 4.88 will be ok for someone who lives in a "flat" part of the country as the Jeep will hold 75mph in 8th gear. As soon as there is a overpass or hill of any kind, it shifts back and forth between 7 and 8th. I have to manually put it in 7th. So, 5.13 should raise my RPM enough to hold 8th. I will eventually go tons and 40's, but that will be 3-ish years down the road, so I am gonna run the 4.88 until then.

 

[ChattVol]

ChattVol and Wibornz,

Thx for the great info.
I like the 37's, but more pumpkin clears is a good thing.
May 38's... hmmm 40's sound good too.

Very true, its a bunch of $ to put into stock D44's

I would love to install D60's, but that's a start of a very slippery Jeep slope :D

D60's... well go big or go home... Currie axles
D60's should be eight lug, then new wheels which all equals more weight.
More weight, 4 or 6 piston dual sided brake calipers, sure why not.
Well, with all that extra weight, time of a Hemi?
Will the stock manual gear box hold up a Hemi?
And of course some really strong drive shafts.

That list above gives a new meaning to Just Empty Every Pocket.

This Jeep thing is one crazy ride.
Just trying not to go down a steep slope to which there is no recovery

If you dont want to go down the slippery slope, why not stay on 37s and simply regear for $1700? You're proposed plan of adding e-lockers($2k)+ RCV's($1300)+regear($1700) + 35 spline shafts($200) = $5200 + cost of bigger tires =$2k. All that and you're still riding on stock d44 axle tubes/mounts.

I bet you could get d60s swapped in for $12k and you could sell your stock axles for $4k. Net cost $8k ish and you can run 40s long term without worrying..

 

[Creeker]

The D60's are amazing.
The cost though...
Curries ~$17,500
Dynatrac ~16,500
With five 8 lug wheels = $250*5 = $1250
Five 40's' at ~350 each = $1450
Plus shocks and drive shafts
and install.
Sounds like D60's is about ~$23k
Sell the old axles and wheels
Might be around $18K after the selling D44 stuff and wheels

 

[ChattVol]

The D60's are amazing.
The cost though...
Curries ~$17,500
Dynatrac ~16,500
With five 8 lug wheels = $250*5 = $1250
Five 40's' at ~350 each = $1450
Plus shocks and drive shafts
and install.
Sounds like D60's is about ~$23k
Sell the old axles and wheels
Might be around $18K after the selling D44 stuff and wheels

I wouldn't go dynatrac or currie at those crazy prices. What's wrong with Dana Ultimate d60s that you can prob get for $10k? List price is $12k. You can prob run your current driveshafts and shocks. You're obviously gonna pay for tires regardless.

Otherwise, spend the $5k upgrading your stock axles like you proposed and slap some 4d's on it and report back on how they hold up. I imagine they'll be fine if you aren't wheelin hard.

 

[Creeker]

One of the things mentioned about D44's v D60's is the pinion gear to the ring gear contact area.
(Note: I am not a master of all information regarding diffs, just a EE trying to learn)
As the ring gear gets bigger, the pinion gear gets smaller.
On a D44 on the bigger gears (5.13s and up), there is only about one tooth engagement between the ring gear and the pinion gear. On a D66, three teeth engage.
From what I have been told, that is why folks who race and/or are heavy on the skinny pedal often go to a bigger Dana axle (e.g., Litebrite broke there D44 and went D60 front and D80 back).

The Ultimate D44's are great. The shock perches in the back would need to be changed due to the long arm conversion and would give better clearances.

If only there was an infinite source for time and money...

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