Understanding tires...almost there

[blnewt]

new wheel width would be a 20x9. i'm on that link, but honestly I don't know what I'm looking at either (or for) to determine whether it would work or how it would look

Here's the link w/ both sets entered, should work ok for what you're wanting.
https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wh...60-20X9ET14&fcl=2in&wcl=1.25in&scl=2in&sr=0in

Sponsored

 

[Pdiehm]

Thank you. So in looking at this, it seems that anywhere from a +10 to +18 would give me that aggressive look on the Sahara but not overly extended where my paint and windows get covered in road crap.

If I go with +18, the Hardrock Affliction H700's with the Toyo OC AT3 at 275/60R20 appears to be the setup.

Though I have seen setups with 0 and 1 offset that don't appear to be pushed out very far using the 20x9 wheels but I'm wondering if that's the camera angle.

What does this mean?

"Tire will stick out 36 mm farther. Rim will stick out 45 mm farther. Make sure that you have enough room under the fender. If not, consider narrower tires or higher offset."

What am I looking at? The tire aspect of it?

 

[ptoemmes]

Thank you. So in looking at this, it seems that anywhere from a +10 to +18 would give me that aggressive look on the Sahara but not overly extended where my paint and windows get covered in road crap.

If I go with +18, the Hardrock Affliction H700's with the Toyo OC AT3 at 275/60R20 appears to be the setup.

Though I have seen setups with 0 and 1 offset that don't appear to be pushed out very far using the 20x9 wheels but I'm wondering if that's the camera angle.

What does this mean?

"Tire will stick out 36 mm farther. Rim will stick out 45 mm farther. Make sure that you have enough room under the fender. If not, consider narrower tires or higher offset."

What am I looking at? The tire aspect of it?

It means your tire will potentially (likely) stick out further beyond the edge of the fender than stock. Conformational pic from : https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

Note that it says tire/rim combination will stick out 1.4" inches further than stock. That does not mean the tire will stick out 1.4" beyond the edge of the fender as the stock setup is tucked a bit inside the fender edge. if I had to guess you would be about 1" beyond the fender edge. If you play around with this calculator you can see that +33 is equal suspension clearance - not that that offset exists for what you want just that you can go above +18 to bring the tire in a bit and still be OK.

 

[Pdiehm]

Ok, I think i'm getting there. The lower the backspace, the more room created inside. Going from 6 to say 5.5" is actually creating more room because I'm pushing the wheel/tire out.

Next question I have is how do you know if it'll rub on the front of the fender or back of the wheel well at full turn?

 

[Shots]

The way I did it was to turn my wheels to full lock, and then measure it.
Two ways to do that.
1. Take a tape measure, see how much room there is, and do some math.
2. Take a piece of cardboard and cut it so it fits on the the tire and extends the dimensions of the new tires (basically an L shape). You can do this with multiple sizes so you can compare them to one another. With your wheels turned hard to lock, you can hold the cardboard on the stock tire, to actually see where the new tire will end up. I recommend doing this at the front and rear of the tire, both inboard and outboard. Make sure you clear fender trim, suspension components (specifically LCA's) and then do it all again with the suspension flexed.
Option 3 is to take an oversize piece of cardboard and turn/flex the wheels. Trim that oversized cardboard down until it clears everywhere. Then measure the cardboard to see what your maximum changes can be and shop for wheel/tires accordingly.

 

[Pdiehm]

and my gathering of information to run a +0 offset is moot. Delaware has a 1" outside fender law, and I can probably get away with a +18, which is maybe 1.25" outside the fender from where the tire is now. Cops don't care, but the DMV inspectors is a different story.

No chance I can get away with a 0 offset, as of course my local dmv is apparently letting things go up to 1.5" but over that are failing inspections.

Looks like the Hardrock Affliction +18mm offset is the path I'm taking.

 

[blnewt]

and my gathering of information to run a +0 offset is moot. Delaware has a 1" outside fender law, and I can probably get away with a +18, which is maybe 1.25" outside the fender from where the tire is now. Cops don't care, but the DMV inspectors is a different story.

No chance I can get away with a 0 offset, as of course my local dmv is apparently letting things go up to 1.5" but over that are failing inspections.

Looks like the Hardrock Affliction +18mm offset is the path I'm taking.

That +18 should be fine, but things get more complicated if you really push your suspension. It sounds like you've got mild plans for your Jeep so that setup should work well for you

 

[Pdiehm]

That +18 should be fine, but things get more complicated if you really push your suspension. It sounds like you've got mild plans for your Jeep so that setup should work well for you

yes. Mild plans though I am toying with lifting the Jeep...got a quote for $1400 for 2” though I don’t know the brand. Dealership wants $2500 to install Mopar so that’s an absolute no.

that said, I am not going heavy off road, and a lift would be purely aesthetics. I toyed with a cool spring spacer kit but that’s $900 installed, soforanother $500 I can get a full suspension lift

 

[blnewt]

yes. Mild plans though I am toying with lifting the Jeep...got a quote for $1400 for 2” though I don’t know the brand. Dealership wants $2500 to install Mopar so that’s an absolute no.

that said, I am not going heavy off road, and a lift would be purely aesthetics. I toyed with a cool spring spacer kit but that’s $900 installed, soforanother $500 I can get a full suspension lift

Should consider Rubicon takeoff suspension, will give you a nice lift for 33s and only run about $150, and it's all factory parts
Here's my install thread on that, it's a 2dr but the same applies to your 4dr. And getting the longer Mopar LCAs will keep your steering proper at speed. Install and info on those is a couple posts down
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-suspension-on-2-door-sport.40700/

 

[Pdiehm]

That +18 should be fine, but things get more complicated if you really push your suspension. It sounds like you've got mild plans for your Jeep so that setup should work well for you

yes. Mild plans though I am toying with lifting the Jeep...got a quote for $1400 for 2” though I don’t know the brand. Dealership wants $2500 to install Mopar so that’s an absolute no.

that said, I am not going heavy off road, and a lift would be purely aesthetics. I toyed with a cool spring spacer kit but that’s $900 installed, soforanother $500 I can get a full suspes

Should consider Rubicon takeoff suspension, will give you a nice lift for 33s and only run about $150, and it's all factory parts
Here's my install thread on that, it's a 2dr but the same applies to your 4dr. And getting the longer Mopar LCAs will keep your steering proper at speed. Install and info on those is a couple posts down
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-suspension-on-2-door-sport.40700/

Looked into it. I can’t install stuff. I don’t have the room, tools, or the skill to do that.

And I don’t think any shops around here will install it for me.

 

[blnewt]

yes. Mild plans though I am toying with lifting the Jeep...got a quote for $1400 for 2” though I don’t know the brand. Dealership wants $2500 to install Mopar so that’s an absolute no.

that said, I am not going heavy off road, and a lift would be purely aesthetics. I toyed with a cool spring spacer kit but that’s $900 installed, soforanother $500 I can get a full suspes


Looked into it. I can’t install stuff. I don’t have the room, tools, or the skill to do that.

And I don’t think any shops around here will install it for me.

Might reach out to members in the forum, might be someone nearby willing to help

 

[Pdiehm]

Will ask around.

Was talking to someone who has a modded 4runner, lifted, with aggressive tires.

He said he got failed for 1.25" outside fender last year, that they actually measure. Says if I want to do something that is 1.5" while it looks great, will be an instant fail at the inspection center (we have no private inspection places here, or else I'd get tint on my windows).

For me to make what I have in my mind work, I need to have an 8.5" wheel, which is roughly 12mm out more than my current wheel (back half has 12mm extended as well). I also have my current tire approximately 12mm inside the fenderwell. so that's a wash or close to it.

That gives me 25mm for the tire bulge on the wheel, which i'm looking at the 285/70R17 tires that are 11.2 wide.

if my math is right, a +20 offset wheel will get me approximately 1.54" and within the Delaware regulations. Won't be super aggressive, but that's ok for a daily driver.

 

[Pdiehm]

and the winner is the Fuel Assault D546 +20 17x8.5 paired with a 285/70R17 tire.

Per customoffsets calculator:

I go from 6" backspacing to 5.5"

Outer position extends 1.41" or 36.7mm, and with my wheel being tucked in approximately 1/2", this gets me very very close to the inspection regulations.

But at $920 for 4, these aren't cheap wheels.

 

[ptoemmes]

and the winner is the Fuel Assault D546 +20 17x8.5 paired with a 285/70R17 tire.

Per customoffsets calculator:

I go from 6" backspacing to 5.5"

Outer position extends 1.41" or 36.7mm, and with my wheel being tucked in approximately 1/2", this gets me very very close to the inspection regulations.

But at $920 for 4, these aren't cheap wheels.

What are doing about a spare? Or going spare tire delete route?

 

[Pdiehm]

What are doing about a spare? Or going spare tire delete route?

it'll have a spare. I'm seeing people with 18x9's and a +10 offset, but it's so hard to see how much a tire sticks out from pictures.

Sponsored