Ultimate Dana 44 Axle install notes and pics

[4xFUN]

Hmm, I bought mine direct from the local Dana distributor. Didn’t have anything to do with the Jeep dealer…

Maybe they were out (COVID) when they shipped mine, shipped direct from Dana...

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[Some Random Guy]

@intentsrig and @Spank , I have no zerg fittings anywhere on my ball joints. My manufacture date was 2019 for the axle. Any reason to be concerned? I’m hoping worst case I run them until I swap to cast knuckles in 1-2 years and just do rebuildable joints then.

 

[intentsrig]

@intentsrig and @Spank , I have no zerg fittings anywhere on my ball joints. My manufacture date was 2019 for the axle. Any reason to be concerned? I’m hoping worst case I run them until I swap to cast knuckles in 1-2 years and just do rebuildable joints then.

No real need for concern. I’d just run them and replace when you do the knuckles.

 

[Spank]

@intentsrig and @Spank , I have no zerg fittings anywhere on my ball joints. My manufacture date was 2019 for the axle. Any reason to be concerned? I’m hoping worst case I run them until I swap to cast knuckles in 1-2 years and just do rebuildable joints then.

Do you have holes to put some into or are they completely sealed?

 

[Some Random Guy]

Do you have holes to put some into or are they completely sealed?

Completely sealed. I tried looking for potentially painted over holes but couldn’t find any.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Documenting this here in case someone else has questions about installing Ultimate Dana 44 axle!

More info on the Ultimate Dana 44 @ https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/mopars-new-ultimate-dana-44-performance-axles/

I went 5.13 gears and E locker. Install tomorrow with details!

Thought I'd throw in a few extra observations:
Metalcloack shock relocation brackets are not compatible with this axle. They suggested cutting off one side of their bracket (the ear that is normally towards the diff). I might try it eventually, but not now. My wheels were already a tad out of their recommended backspacing (4.63" backspacing vs 4.5" recommended, so I don't want to introduce a bad day.
Metalcloak's quick disconnect sway bar links are not compatible on the passenger side. I'm still deciding if I want to cut off the interfering bracket I don't need and grind down the bracket to make it fit (C weld interferes right now). I currently have a contact issue with my factory sway bar, but I'm not dialed in yet on control arms. Odd I didn't adjust them and it was fine on the M186 but the UD44 can't handle it. It might be MC's springs are wider than the Rubi take-offs I was running before.
I saw photos of lower spring isolators on a subsequent photo drop, mine did not fit. The UD44 appears to have the index position built into the metal coil perch already. I also had to drill out the center for the bumpstops.
Locker is a 2-pin that should work with a switch. Mine is from Jeep, so like the ball joints maybe ordering it from Dana makes a difference. I got a little lost on the above posts debating if it will hook right up to a Rubicon. My guess is no it won't without a harness.
My sport drag link was too short once the lift was included. At Rubicon height I think it would have been able to reach, but it couldn't once the MC 2.5" springs were on. I've seen lots of info both ways on this, so I'm throwing in this experience. Luckily I had a Steersmarts left over, so that will go in. I had to order the bottom mount end though, my previous one was top mount and I don't want to do that again. Edit: Spoke too soon, I forgot the center of the Jeep was on jackstands so I was at droop. Stock draglink centers up fine.
As mentioned earlier, caster is not corrected. I anticipate working with a local driveshaft shop but maybe I'll get lucky and be able to balance pinion angle and caster with decent driveability.
Wheel speed sensor brackets don’t work from the M186. I’m trying to modify them to at least partially work.
I'm still wrapping up. I have to finish the tie rod and flop around to lift the back. Then I can deal with my at-home alignment.

 

[Deen]

Use a product like the tazer to remove the fad function. Pull the t-case into the appropriate range want

Brett

I just tied the wiring up out of the way and didn't disable the FAD and have no problems or warnings.

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