Ultimate Dana 44 Axle install notes and pics

  1. intentsrig

    intentsrig Well-Known Member

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    #1 Jan 25, 2019
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 29, 2019
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    intentsrig

    intentsrig Well-Known Member

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    #2 Jan 27, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2019
    Picture heavy!
    Finished yesterday. The install went mostly trouble free apart from destroying one of the castle nut threads for the synergy tie rod. Not sure what happened there.

    *Also something thats different is the ball joints. The top is flat and the design is a bit different and the C’s are quite a bit larger.

    The axle needed holes drilled in the sprint perch for the bump stops.

    Syngery bracket for stabilizer works fine

    The metal cloak track bar needed some extra grinding around the joint to fit into the bracket.

    Look at the size difference in shafts and U joints! 1410 vs 1350

    On the way home from my buddies I noticed a bad sound while braking as I pulled into my driveway. Lost a brake caliper bolt. I posted another thread about that though.

    Other than that everything feels great! The steering feels tight and does not wander.

    Anyone have any recommendations on how to run the e locker wire? Enough length for flex etc. plan is to wire into the aux 1 wire.

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  3. Litfuse

    Litfuse Well-Known Member

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    Beefy!!!
     
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  4. Roky

    Roky Well-Known Member

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    I have my lockers wired to my aux switches 1 & 2 here’s how I routed the front one. It’s the 3/8” black wire loom. I zip tied to diff breather tube to get in engine bay then across where hood meets cowl over to battery. Bottom pic to top is sequence.

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    intentsrig

    intentsrig Well-Known Member

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    Oh perfect! I thought about going along the backside like that. How much slack did you leave for flexing?
     
  6. Roky

    Roky Well-Known Member

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    I’m piggy backed to breathe tube all the way to plug, so however breather tube flex’s so does wire. That was one of reasons I followed it.

    DA1B648C-64C5-41BC-9D36-E16D323DF97E.jpeg
     
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    intentsrig

    intentsrig Well-Known Member

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    Ohh yeah that makes sense. Thanks
     
  8. stil2low

    stil2low Well-Known Member

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    How are you finding getting the t case to shift? Read few guys had problems getting to 4 wheel once ditching the FAD
     
  9. rustyshakelford

    rustyshakelford Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn’t tie up 1 or 2 on the switches. Save those for lights or something else with higher draw. 3/4 would be a good option. Glad the install went well

    Brett
     
  10. rustyshakelford

    rustyshakelford Well-Known Member

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    Use a product like the tazer to remove the fad function. Pull the t-case into the appropriate range want

    Brett
     
  11. stil2low

    stil2low Well-Known Member

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    Not the electrical part, read few articles of guys having to pull a synchro out of the case to get a more smoother and easier shift
     
  12. Roky

    Roky Well-Known Member

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    I’m sorry, I said 1 and 2 in my previous post, mine are wired to 3 and 4, the 15 amp , 3 for front and 4 for rear to make it easy for me to remember. Stupid fat fingers typing on iPhone, lol.
     
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    intentsrig

    intentsrig Well-Known Member

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    3/4 already used for air compressor and 20” light bar. No plans for a bigger windshield light. 3/4 are 15 amp so it’s ok.
     
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    intentsrig

    intentsrig Well-Known Member

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    No issues last night. Shifted in and out very easily even at a stop. I used the tazer to turn off the FAD function.
     
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    intentsrig

    intentsrig Well-Known Member

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    Also, with 5.13’s I have to push the brake pedal hard to the floor before it stalls!

    Can’t wait for a 4-1 or maybe an atlas 5-1 :devil:
     
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