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Truss JLUR axles or go to Dana Ultimate 44?

Jmscrttndn

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Hello. Have a JLUR with stock axles and all. Running 37" tires, unlikely to go bigger in near future. I recently bought some Artec trusses for the front (main axle truss and C-gussets) and rear. They are on their way and won't be here for a month or two. Labour in my area is approx. $1500 for front and rear truss installed. I have a few courses of action floating in my head and not sure which to pursue.

We do moderate wheeling and overland type stuff... but being in Canada, can get to some exceptionally remote places where breaking down is not an option. As well, I tend to drive quickly, so it isn't uncommon to hit a decent (read: deep) fireroad pothole at 80 km/h. Want to have the capability to be able to conquer anything without worrying about breaking something.

In Canada, prices in Canadian.

1. $3950 front + $2250 rear = $6200
Truss both axles. (RCV shafts front, chromoly shafts rear, gearing x2, diff skid x2).
Pros: Keeps FAD capability which offers fuel savings, ?better highway driving?, faster 2WD acceleration, longer driveshaft life especially with higher lift height.
Cons: gets expensive!
Similar setup to @Remmy from another thread.

2. $5300 Dana U44 + $2250 rear (-$1500 sale of stock from Rubi D44) = $6050
Truss rear axle only. (Chromoly shafts, gearing x1, diff skid x1)
Buy Dana Ultimate 44 for front (already has gears/locker, chromoly shafts, better housing/pumpkin/cover, ?stronger overall, better ball joints).
Pros: aftermarket bolt-in front axle, less chance of shop screwing up intricate front axle truss job
Cons: no FAD, worsened fuel economy, ?heavier

3. Dana 60s all around. Not a real option. Costs a lot. (A lot...)

Looking for some feedback. Seems price is negligibly close. Comes down to what would be better: Dana U44 up front, or trussed Rubi D44 with working FAD capability? Thanks!
Jeep Wrangler JL Truss JLUR axles or go to Dana Ultimate 44? IMG_1640

Jeep Wrangler JL Truss JLUR axles or go to Dana Ultimate 44? IMG_1649


Jeep Wrangler JL Truss JLUR axles or go to Dana Ultimate 44? IMG_1662

Jeep Wrangler JL Truss JLUR axles or go to Dana Ultimate 44? IMG_1674
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Spank

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I'd personally go with the UD44, but I'd also make sure it's been built and packaged properly.

Both myself and others on this forum have noticed Spicer isn't welding the passenger side swaybar brackets straight, putting the wrong zerk fittings on ball joints, and in my case, the shafts weren't properly secured and ended up scratching the axle.

It's an excellent product, but it just seems like quality control everywhere is diminishing regardless of what you buy and where it's made. Nonetheless, I'd trust a stronger axle straight from a factory over welding trusses and gussets onto an inferior product.
 
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Jmscrttndn

Jmscrttndn

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I'd personally go with the UD44, but I'd also make sure it's been built and packaged properly.

Both myself and others on this forum have noticed Spicer isn't welding the passenger side swaybar brackets straight, putting the wrong zerk fittings on ball joints, and in my case, the shafts weren't properly secured and ended up scratching the axle.

It's an excellent product, but it just seems like quality control everywhere is diminishing regardless of what you buy and where it's made. Nonetheless, I'd trust a stronger axle straight from a factory over welding trusses and gussets onto an inferior product.
How did the find the difference with the lack of FAD? Any more vibrations or decreased fuel economy?
 

Spank

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Not sure how much the lack of a FAD affected fuel economy. The Jeep was already running 35s and was regeared to 5:13s once we got the axle installed. It drives great, though. No vibrations or issues at all.

And just to note: I didn't install this on my Jeep, but helped a buddy put it on his Sahara. He's running the 2L turbo.
 

2Wheel-Lee

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My opinion would be to take that $1500 and buy a welder and some scrap metal. Learn to weld, then weld your own trusses on. Though I bought my welder for a similar job, welding on the Artec trusses and C gussets wasn't that big of deal. Of course, it was a little easier with the front axle out while I was regearing that, too (my first time doing gears).
 

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Jmscrttndn

Jmscrttndn

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My opinion would be to take that $1500 and buy a welder and some scrap metal. Learn to weld, then weld your own trusses on. Though I bought my welder for a similar job, welding on the Artec trusses and C gussets wasn't that big of deal. Of course, it was a little easier with the front axle out while I was regearing that, too (my first time doing gears).
I’ve been toying with this, but the bigger question is crate axle vs frankentruss.
Did you buy a mig welder? I’ve been looking at cheap stick options as having gas on hand is a pain for me.
 

2Wheel-Lee

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I’ve been toying with this, but the bigger question is crate axle vs frankentruss.
Did you buy a mig welder? I’ve been looking at cheap stick options as having gas on hand is a pain for me.
I got a Miller 211 MIG. I've found it so useful that I'm kind of mad that I didn't buy a years ago. I'm not sure of your gas situation, but can you rent the bottles from a local welding supply?

Don't you already have a Rubicon? Maybe I missed something. I'm running Rubicon axles regeared with 5.13s, Artec truss (front only - they didn't have a rear at the time), RCV front axles (one piece - no FAD), axles Spicer chromo rear axles. I've beat on them pretty hard. I'd say this setup is pretty solid.
 

Sheepjeep

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in the end the 2 options are comparable, the RCVs are agruabbly little stronger than what dana puts in the u44 also i would say keep the old stock ones as trail spares in case you do break, the trussing on the front will be a huge plus

for your rough cost estimate i would still take the trussed axle over the create
 
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Jmscrttndn

Jmscrttndn

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Welding was part of my life long trade and a hobby. I would not recommed welding on axles for a beginer. I will not throw good money after bad investing in a Rubicon D44. DU44 would be my choice. I prefer manual hubs which are better than FAD because the wheel bearings are stronger than the unit type, and no weak FAD axle tube housing. Fuel economy is a wash, both disconnect the front wheels.
No manual locking until jumping to 60s with different wheels all around. So big $$$
 

chris4prez

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Just got back JLUR back from the shop and had the UD44 installed w/ 5.13s rather than trussing. So far I think it was the better choice for me to beef everything up as I have no intentions of going beyond 37/38in tires and seemed like the cost effective route (when you factor in chromoloy axel shafts, removed fad, beefed up ends/joints.) vs. replacing everything on stock axel. No opinion on gas mileage yet as I have had it for less than 1 day back. I can say I am happy so far. Only wrinkle I had is the steersmarts trackbar reinforcement bracket has some rubbing against shock mount and shock so likely either going to need to reprofile it, and/or maybe try the synergy bracket and see if clearance is better else remove it.
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