Trailer brake controller without factory tow package

[IdahoJOAT]

I have the Curt Bluetooth controller and can vouch for it.

It is a bit pricey, but works well and as advertised. Even in the phone loses connection, or if you unplug the controller, it retains 5 profiles.

Sponsored

 

[WagzDad]

I have the Curt Bluetooth controller and can vouch for it.

It is a bit pricey, but works well and as advertised. Even in the phone loses connection, or if you unplug the controller, it retains 5 profiles.

Am I correct in thinking that the wireless Curt unit has to have a hot wire to the 7 pin plug, but the blue brake controller wire does not have to be connected? The controller adds the blue output using power from the hot feed?

 

[Jeep Wick]

I finally finished and it actually works! No errors so I guess I don't need the diode. Took it around the block and parked the camper in the driveway. Success. Mounted the knob in the panel below the steering wheel, I had to Dremel out some plastic but this was the easiest spot.

TLDR, I had a Curt 4 way, added a 4 way to 7 way adapter, ran 2 wires through the frame for power and brake controller, ran 1 wire from pass side CHMSL to controller.

 

[NeilP]

Am I correct in thinking that the wireless Curt unit has to have a hot wire to the 7 pin plug, but the blue brake controller wire does not have to be connected? The controller adds the blue output using power from the hot feed?

You are correct.

 

[brandoh73]

I was finally able to test my brake controller last night with a globe circuit tester and some help from the wife and everything is working as expected using this video as my guide:

The question from this original post was about the connector under the driver side dash and its usability if the Jeep did NOT have the factory tow package. After investigation, that connector is NOT usable. There is no power to that connector as the fuse it should be connected to in the PDU does not exist and one cannot be put in the fuse holder. I am not sure if the other wires in that connector are useful or not, but I did not use any of them.

My install included the following parts:
Redarc TowPro Elite: https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/tow-pro-elite-electric-brake-controller

RedArc Encapsulated Protection Device: https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/electric-brake-controller/encapsulated-power-diode

RedArc TowPro Mounting Kit: https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/electric-brake-controller/tow-pro-mounting-kit

RedArc Switch Insert for Isuzu (I know, but trust me, it works!): https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/switch-insert-to-suit-gmc-isuzu

In Line Fuse Holder: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/CURT/C58470-1.html

Lots of 12 and 14 gauge wire, butt splices, heat shrink tubing and electrical tape!

The install is not too bad once you figure out what you are going to do, hopefully this post helps others.

• I installed the main unit under the steering wheel using the mounting kit. I had to bend it back so it is basically mounted flat instead of vertical like some of the videos show. There are fins on the plastic panel under the dash that were hitting the unit when vertical.
• I installed the control knob where the 12V DC adapter was on the dash. This is where I used the Isuzu switch insert. You really dont need a 12V socket removal tool, it might help, but it was not that hard to get out, as long as you dont plan on using it again.
• As for the wiring, I used the included universal wiring harness. I extended all of the wires coming out of the harness using butt splices with integrated heat shrink, and electrical tape. I created one loom to make it easier to fish under the dash to the passenger foot well.
• I sent the power and ground wires through the gromet on the passenger side into the engine bay, grounded to the body at the existing ground terminal, spliced in the in line fuse holder and eventually connected the power to the positive battery terminal.
• On the inside, the blue traler brake signal was connected to the blue trailer brake wire from the Mopar trailer wiring harness.
• For pedal brake signal, at least on my 2022 JLUR-XR, there is a single wire wrapped up in the front passenger side kick panel. Once you remove the black tape wrap you will see that it is the desired dark green with white stripe brake signal wire drop.
• This where I used the Encapsulated diode just to be safe. The red wire from the universal wiring harness connects to the red wire on the left side of the diode. When looking at the diode, make sure the side with RedArc embossed on the plastic is facing up.
• The Green wire with white stripe is connected to the orange wire on the diode.
• The Red wire on the right side of the diode is not used.
• Once all the wires were connected, I bundled them up and shoved them behind the kick panel.
• Last step is to connect the positive battery lead to the battery and close all the trim pieces back up.

Here is a shot of the control knob with the Isuzu switch insert. I like the look, almost factory. It sticks out just a bit, but not enough to bother me.

I hope this helps the next Jeeper!

 

[bjm00se]

I have the Curt Bluetooth controller and can vouch for it.

It is a bit pricey, but works well and as advertised. Even in the phone loses connection, or if you unplug the controller, it retains 5 profiles.

So, help me out here.

When I first read about a "bluetooth brake controller" I about freaked out, because all my bluetooth devices, speakers, GPS, bike lock, etc... inevitably connect and disconnect at inconvenient intervals and require inconvenient fiddling with to re-connect.

So, please tell me that the bluetooth connection is only for programming the controller, and all the actual braking signals and connections from the controller all the way to the electric trailer brakes are hard-wired? Please? ?

 

[NeilP]

So, help me out here.

When I first read about a "bluetooth brake controller" I about freaked out, because all my bluetooth devices, speakers, GPS, bike lock, etc... inevitably connect and disconnect at inconvenient intervals and require inconvenient fiddling with to re-connect.

So, please tell me that the bluetooth connection is only for programming the controller, and all the actual braking signals and connections from the controller all the way to the electric trailer brakes are hard-wired? Please? ?

That is what Curt says. I 'd have to guess that the only feature that wouldn't work if you lost the bluetooth connection would be the ability to manually apply the brake.

 

[IdahoJOAT]

So, please tell me that the bluetooth connection is only for programming the controller, and all the actual braking signals and connections from the controller all the way to the electric trailer brakes are hard-wired? Please? ?

You're spot on. And I've noticed there some weird cloud thing, or memory unit within the controller, I'm not sure which.

Our first Jeep, Kailani 1, we towed with and used the controller. Kailani 2 comes along(and a new phone), I hook up the controller, and it not only loads the profile we were using, but I also see the other 2 or 3 profiles my renters who've used the controller set up for themselves.

That is what Curt says. I 'd have to guess that the only feature that wouldn't work if you lost the bluetooth connection would be the ability to manually apply the brake.

You're spot on as well. I use the manual button to test how much power to give the brakes. I also use it to, at a stop, manually press it and listen at the wheel for the brakes to actuate.

 

[leedhambly]

I was finally able to test my brake controller last night with a globe circuit tester and some help from the wife and everything is working as expected using this video as my guide:

The question from this original post was about the connector under the driver side dash and its usability if the Jeep did NOT have the factory tow package. After investigation, that connector is NOT usable. There is no power to that connector as the fuse it should be connected to in the PDU does not exist and one cannot be put in the fuse holder. I am not sure if the other wires in that connector are useful or not, but I did not use any of them.

My install included the following parts:
Redarc TowPro Elite: https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/tow-pro-elite-electric-brake-controller

RedArc Encapsulated Protection Device: https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/electric-brake-controller/encapsulated-power-diode

RedArc TowPro Mounting Kit: https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/electric-brake-controller/tow-pro-mounting-kit

RedArc Switch Insert for Isuzu (I know, but trust me, it works!): https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/switch-insert-to-suit-gmc-isuzu

In Line Fuse Holder: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/CURT/C58470-1.html

Lots of 12 and 14 gauge wire, butt splices, heat shrink tubing and electrical tape!

The install is not too bad once you figure out what you are going to do, hopefully this post helps others.

• I installed the main unit under the steering wheel using the mounting kit. I had to bend it back so it is basically mounted flat instead of vertical like some of the videos show. There are fins on the plastic panel under the dash that were hitting the unit when vertical.
• I installed the control knob where the 12V DC adapter was on the dash. This is where I used the Isuzu switch insert. You really dont need a 12V socket removal tool, it might help, but it was not that hard to get out, as long as you dont plan on using it again.
• As for the wiring, I used the included universal wiring harness. I extended all of the wires coming out of the harness using butt splices with integrated heat shrink, and electrical tape. I created one loom to make it easier to fish under the dash to the passenger foot well.
• I sent the power and ground wires through the gromet on the passenger side into the engine bay, grounded to the body at the existing ground terminal, spliced in the in line fuse holder and eventually connected the power to the positive battery terminal.
• On the inside, the blue traler brake signal was connected to the blue trailer brake wire from the Mopar trailer wiring harness.
• For pedal brake signal, at least on my 2022 JLUR-XR, there is a single wire wrapped up in the front passenger side kick panel. Once you remove the black tape wrap you will see that it is the desired dark green with white stripe brake signal wire drop.
• This where I used the Encapsulated diode just to be safe. The red wire from the universal wiring harness connects to the red wire on the left side of the diode. When looking at the diode, make sure the side with RedArc embossed on the plastic is facing up.
• The Green wire with white stripe is connected to the orange wire on the diode.
• The Red wire on the right side of the diode is not used.
• Once all the wires were connected, I bundled them up and shoved them behind the kick panel.
• Last step is to connect the positive battery lead to the battery and close all the trim pieces back up.

Here is a shot of the control knob with the Isuzu switch insert. I like the look, almost factory. It sticks out just a bit, but not enough to bother me.

I hope this helps the next Jeeper!

Hello - this post was very helpful but even with wiring the REDARC encapsulated device as described I get dash lights anytime the brake controller is connected to the green/white wire. Has this been working for you?

 

[brandoh73]

Hello - this post was very helpful but even with wiring the REDARC encapsulated device as described I get dash lights anytime the brake controller is connected to the green/white wire. Has this been working for you?

This has been working for me fine, I have had no issues with dash lights. Based on what I have read, make sure you have the wires from the encapsulated resistor hooked up right. if they are backwards the resistor might not work, which would lead to dash light issues.

 

[leedhambly]

This has been working for me fine, I have had no issues with dash lights. Based on what I have read, make sure you have the wires from the encapsulated resistor hooked up right. if they are backwards the resistor might not work, which would lead to dash light issues.

Thanks for the quick reply! I will triple-check I’ve wired it as you described (which is now REDARC also suggested I do it) and fingers crossed I’ve just done something wrong. Thanks again

 

[Snivley]

I was finally able to test my brake controller last night with a globe circuit tester and some help from the wife and everything is working as expected using this video as my guide:

The question from this original post was about the connector under the driver side dash and its usability if the Jeep did NOT have the factory tow package. After investigation, that connector is NOT usable. There is no power to that connector as the fuse it should be connected to in the PDU does not exist and one cannot be put in the fuse holder. I am not sure if the other wires in that connector are useful or not, but I did not use any of them.

My install included the following parts:
Redarc TowPro Elite: https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/tow-pro-elite-electric-brake-controller

RedArc Encapsulated Protection Device: https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/electric-brake-controller/encapsulated-power-diode

RedArc TowPro Mounting Kit: https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/electric-brake-controller/tow-pro-mounting-kit

RedArc Switch Insert for Isuzu (I know, but trust me, it works!): https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/switch-insert-to-suit-gmc-isuzu

In Line Fuse Holder: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/CURT/C58470-1.html

Lots of 12 and 14 gauge wire, butt splices, heat shrink tubing and electrical tape!

The install is not too bad once you figure out what you are going to do, hopefully this post helps others.

• I installed the main unit under the steering wheel using the mounting kit. I had to bend it back so it is basically mounted flat instead of vertical like some of the videos show. There are fins on the plastic panel under the dash that were hitting the unit when vertical.
• I installed the control knob where the 12V DC adapter was on the dash. This is where I used the Isuzu switch insert. You really dont need a 12V socket removal tool, it might help, but it was not that hard to get out, as long as you dont plan on using it again.
• As for the wiring, I used the included universal wiring harness. I extended all of the wires coming out of the harness using butt splices with integrated heat shrink, and electrical tape. I created one loom to make it easier to fish under the dash to the passenger foot well.
• I sent the power and ground wires through the gromet on the passenger side into the engine bay, grounded to the body at the existing ground terminal, spliced in the in line fuse holder and eventually connected the power to the positive battery terminal.
• On the inside, the blue traler brake signal was connected to the blue trailer brake wire from the Mopar trailer wiring harness.
• For pedal brake signal, at least on my 2022 JLUR-XR, there is a single wire wrapped up in the front passenger side kick panel. Once you remove the black tape wrap you will see that it is the desired dark green with white stripe brake signal wire drop.
• This where I used the Encapsulated diode just to be safe. The red wire from the universal wiring harness connects to the red wire on the left side of the diode. When looking at the diode, make sure the side with RedArc embossed on the plastic is facing up.
• The Green wire with white stripe is connected to the orange wire on the diode.
• The Red wire on the right side of the diode is not used.
• Once all the wires were connected, I bundled them up and shoved them behind the kick panel.
• Last step is to connect the positive battery lead to the battery and close all the trim pieces back up.

Here is a shot of the control knob with the Isuzu switch insert. I like the look, almost factory. It sticks out just a bit, but not enough to bother me.

I hope this helps the next Jeeper!

I know this is an old post, but is perhaps the best detail I have been able to find. This has been extremely helpful. Only question I have is what size fuse did you go with in your inline holder? Redraw looks like it requires 25amp but the inline holder says max 10amp. Again, appreciate it.

 

[brandoh73]

@Snivley I double checked and I do have a 25 amp fuse in there. If I recall when I was testing it for the first time using a bulb tester I actually blew the 10 amp fuse.

 

[BobW]

While the bluetooth Curt seemed an elegant solution, I went with Redarc to get a manual brake button on the dash. A couple posts prompted me to consider fishtailing... didn't want to have to fumble with my phone.

The Redarc install video was quite good for the mechanical part.

Sponsored