too much camber

[dapipp]

So I recently installed a 2.5" Clayton lift. Things went just fine until I took my JL Rubicon in for alignment. I seem to be off in a few areas.

What do I need to do to fix the camber on the front and rear of the passenger side?

Should I bring my front caster to 6° or so?

Is there something overall I need to address?

Thanks

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[JEEP4U]

Did you have front camber sleeves installed ? Looking at the difference between before and after.

Rear camber is fixed on the rear axle.

 

[jjvincent]

So I recently installed a 2.5" Clayton lift. Things went just fine until I took my JL Rubicon in for alignment. I seem to be off in a few areas.

What do I need to do to fix the camber on the front and rear of the passenger side?

Should I bring my front caster to 6° or so?

Is there something overall I need to address?

Thanks

-0.6 degree of camber in the rear? At that point, you'll be breaking the rear right axle. In racing, we were limited to -0.1 deg of camber per side for a solid rear axle. -0.5 would snap them after a race or two. If to run a cambered rear axle, we could get -0.5 out of them but that was converting them to floating and rounding out the splines on the outer side.

 

[Old Jeeper]

-0.6 degree of camber in the rear? At that point, you'll be breaking the rear right axle. In racing, we were limited to -0.1 deg of camber per side for a solid rear axle. -0.5 would snap them after a race or two. If to run a cambered rear axle, we could get -0.5 out of them but that was converting them to floating and rounding out the splines on the outer side.

Have not worked on the JLs but was under the impression Camber was set a the factory F/R and they used to welded, maybe not anymore???

 

[jjvincent]

Have not worked on the JLs but was under the impression Camber was set a the factory F/R and they used to welded, maybe not anymore???

The stick axle in the rear they have is just like they used in the past. Same as for all of those pickups too. Unless you bend it yourself, then it's around no more and 0.1 degree off. Actually they are more close today than back in the day. As for the front, there is a cam in the upper ball joint.

 

[dapipp]

Nope, stock Rubicon, though I did replace the lower control arms with the ones from the Mopar 2" lift, while only 1/4" longer they made a huge difference in handling.

This alignment is after I installed the lift before the alignment rack.

Here is an alignment before lift.

 

[ejewels]

-0.6 degree of camber in the rear? At that point, you'll be breaking the rear right axle. In racing, we were limited to -0.1 deg of camber per side for a solid rear axle. -0.5 would snap them after a race or two. If to run a cambered rear axle, we could get -0.5 out of them but that was converting them to floating and rounding out the splines on the outer side.

How is he going to break a rear axle exactly when his alignment spec sheet shows camber is in green (in spec)? Many alignments posted on here and the interwebz have similar camber numbers for JL's so not sure I understand?

 

[AcesandEights]

Camber is not adjustable. Don't try to adjust it. Drive on.

 

[ejewels]

Camber is not adjustable. Don't try to adjust it. Drive on.

not sure if this was meant for me but I was asking why someone would say -0.6 degrees of camber would break the rear axle lol. And then say anything over 0.1 degree off is bad. Most of the alignment sheets posted on this forum (both bone stock and modded) have more camber than +- 0.1 degrees... and still in the green. The spec I believe is +- 0.6 degrees. So if he is correct, tons of stock rigs would be destroying their axles right from the factory.

 

[AcesandEights]

It was for the OP

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