Not a fan either, but it’s a lot better than the stock one sticking up blocking the window. I had removed it and only using a QT PNP light ring before getting it. Presently running both, but looking for a way to plug the wire hole on the camera stalk to keep debris out. I ordered a 5’th center cap to drill out to fit over the stalk. If it or an alternative covers most of the stalk hole , back to just the ring.
Uhh- not DOT approved, but plenty of bright light, 2 years no problem after seeing others with just a ring. If I get a ticket, (use the QT splitter for both), just plug it in and get the ticket signed off and pay the fine. PS, front license also required, my 15 GC has never had one.
It will take but moments to plug it in for the inspection when wired for both with the supplied QT splitter
I wouldn’t want it when sticking out with the stock 44mm wheels.
You may want to reach out to Teraflex to see if they have any ideas or other solutions. Their customer service is fantastic and you never know they might be getting enough requests about a different 3rd light option that an engineer works with you to test an idea.
Thanks! Most of the light rings would just drop in place but the Oracle is supposed to use 3 metal brackets that get screwed into the OEM carrier. I like how open it is since my wheel is also fairly open, so I made it work by shortening two of the brackets and moving them into different positions (there are multiple threaded holes in the ring), then using an M6x1.0x20mm screw into a threaded hole in the carrier and drilling a hole in the top for a bolt/washer/nut to hold it. Looks even better that way I think!
Definitely a creative solution on your end. I'm assuming the bolt heads don't interfere with the wheel center sitting flush against the carrier? I have stock Rubicon wheels and if I did this workaround that would be my only concern. Also it seems like most of those ring lights have a section stop working but people keep driving with them, how's the oracle quality held up so far?
The lower mounting point is slightly recessed from the wheel mounting surface. The upper point I drilled pretty close to the edge of it and the wheel has recessed pockets and that clears that bolt head. You could probably use a tapered bolt and countersink it if you wanted as that plate is pretty thick, but I don't it would be necessary with most wheels.
