Temperature control module-I’m stumped

[geem03]

So let’s begin this long story as Annie

and I sit here this cloudy, cool morning drinking my hot coffee and ponder what is my next step with this issue I am having with the temperature control module.

so it all started last Sunday when driving down the road, all kinds of bells and whistles and indefinite warnings lit up my dash all the while losing all gauge functions and power steering. This happened a couple/three times. After perusing this forum and reading of potential culprits…dead or weak batteries, green CBUS, chafed wiring by the manifold and loose connections. I had already reseated the fuses in the fuse box ?.
So after cleaning and tightening all (as far as I could find) connections and grounds, it seemed to fix it for about five days then it happened again. I replaced both batteries and this seems to, so far, have fixed it …. BUT…. Now I have no power or response from my fan, temperature adjustment and the knob to guide which vent the air goes through. Also no power to the auto start/stop and traction control. I do have power and response from my four way flashers.

I switched out fuses f32,f66 and f105 with no changes. I’ve removed and reseated the fuse box, inspected for bent prongs and broken wires at the connections blocks that attach under the main fuse box itself.

I’ve gone to a local auto electric place with unit in hand, but he stated he couldn’t just test the unit.
I went to my Buddy’s garage and one of the boys there guided me (as they were super busy) through a few diagnostic procedures but to no avail.

so I’ve been looking at a replacement unit as I’m afraid I’ve somehow burnt out the board inside the unit. Here’s the part number (p6sz09dx9aa)

I’ve found comparable units but they have different part number. I am looking at a direct replacement with no extra features on it.
1) So will a unit with a different part number work?
2) will it be plug and play or does it have to go to the dealer to be programmed?
3) could it be fuse number N3 on the linear row of fuses on the right of the fuse box?
4) any other potential areas I should be looking at?

any input will be appreciated. I just can’t figure this one out

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[geem03]

RESOLVED

Figured it out!!!!

so Annie and I went out to start from scratch and backtrack all our work.
Disconnected negatives for Main and auxiliary battery, off with the fuse box, off with the covers to the auxiliary battery and inspected that. Everything looked ok there. I reinstalled the covers over the auxiliary battery and proceeded to reinspect the bottom of the fuse box where the prongs/pins are. I looked really close to all of them when I noticed that one pin was bent at a 90 degree angle to the left and again 90 degree angle to the right, basically giving it a Thunderbolt shape

and it was situated at one of the fuses that i had previously checked.

so I then checked the female connector more closely and saw that there was small damage to the blue plastic next to a pin insert connection.

I straighten the pin out and reassembled everything….. and VOILA!!!!! I had regained function of my unit.

but just to add stress to my experience, I was then getting a code of U113E
(What Does the U113E Jeep Code Mean?)
The Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) is mounted in-line with the negative Battery Cable. The IBS monitors the Battery state of charge and current draw. The IBS also has a built-in thermistor that calculates the Battery temperature. This information is reported through a Local Interconnect Network (LIN) BUS circuit to the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM broadcasts the information to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Controller Area Network (CAN) BUS. The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets when the BCM does not receive LIN Bus messages from the Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) for greater than 180 milliseconds.
That was my fault, I just forgot to reconnect it. It’s the little black box on the negative.

So hopefully this is the end of my story and this issue is fixed. Annie and I spent numerous days pondering and tinkering over this issue. It feels good to have figured it out but it still sits in the back of our minds…. But what if we didn’t?

 

[geem03]

NOPE!

went to work yesterday with no issues, left work and not even a minute into the ride all the bells and warnings went off…

No power steering again…

I’m lost. Waiting for the green CAN BUS to arrive to swap that out. But the Jeep is at the shop, I’m assuming for the weekend and a few days after.

 

[nositting]

ugh!
good luck!!!

 

[geem03]

ugh!
good luck!!!

Seems like that is what I will need......Some Good Luck!

 

[mwilk012]

You never should have touched the fuse box, and this is why.

 

[geem03]

You never should have touched the fuse box, and this is why.

Had to get to the auxiliary battery….

 

[mwilk012]

Had to get to the auxiliary battery….

Did you get that advice from this forum? Every single post that ever refers to removing the PDC should be flagged as disinfo. This is something that should never, ever be done. The proper procedure for accessing the battery is by removing the right front fender liner.

 

[geem03]

Did you get that advice from this forum? Every single post that ever refers to removing the PDC should be flagged as disinfo. This is something that should never, ever be done. The proper procedure for accessing the battery is by removing the right front fender liner.

From what I read on the forums, that was another way to do it if you didn’t want to go through the hassle of removing the fuse box but then you ran the risk of breaking clips and such. Anyways, not here to argue or debate what I did but posting for other people to hopefully help them like I was by reading other people’s experiences so to help me diagnosis and fix problems without having to go to the dealer or local shop and pay exorbitant amounts of money in labor.
But thank you for your input. I’m sure someone reading this post will take your info in consideration when reading it.

 

[mwilk012]

From what I read on the forums, that was another way to do it if you didn’t want to go through the hassle of removing the fuse box but then you ran the risk of breaking clips and such. Anyways, not here to argue or debate what I did but posting for other people to hopefully help them like I was by reading other people’s experiences so to help me diagnosis and fix problems without having to go to the dealer or local shop and pay exorbitant amounts of money in labor.
But thank you for your input. I’m sure someone reading this post will take your info in consideration when reading it.

There is no debate, the official repair procedure is to remove the fender LINER. Not the fender. Definitely not the PDC. There is a reason for this. Swapping out parts without testing them now is just ridiculous when the problem is obvious, you damaged the PDC.

All you need is a half decent multimeter to test the things that are not working. A code reader helps but in your case is almost certainly unnecessary.

You may have blown a fuse. Continuty testing is simple for the main fuse buss bar.

 

[mwilk012]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL...RAULIC-POWER-STEERING-(EHPS)-SYSTEM---ESS.pdf

The EPS system power circuit is very simple. Check these parts out.

 

[geem03]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL...RAULIC-POWER-STEERING-(EHPS)-SYSTEM---ESS.pdf

The EPS system power circuit is very simple. Check these parts out.

Thank you

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