Switching to LED Mopar OEM Lights

zyt

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can you show or tell how you installed the resistors and where? Dealing with this issue right now.
I went with this low heat resistor for $24 a pair which is on the expensive side vs cheaper ones on Amazon or ebay. I turn on the blinker for about 10 minutes and the resistor becomes hot to touch, but not like it would melt anything. This gives me a peace of mind mounting to the plastic fenders.
I used 4 or 5 zip ties to tie it to a plastic block near the fender light. For wires, you can T-tap into negative (Black color) and turn signal power (I recall it's green and white)
https://www.headlightrevolution.com/xenondepot-xd7-5-ohm-resistor?quantity=1





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klawrence3

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I went with this low heat resistor for $24 a pair which is on the expensive side vs cheaper ones on Amazon or ebay. I turn on the blinker for about 10 minutes and the resistor becomes hot to touch, but not like it would melt anything. This gives me a peace of mind mounting to the plastic fenders.
I used 4 or 5 zip ties to tie it to a plastic block near the fender light. For wires, you can T-tap into negative (Black color) and turn signal power (I recall it's green and white)
https://www.headlightrevolution.com/xenondepot-xd7-5-ohm-resistor?quantity=1
did this stop the hyper flash on the dash and the signal light errors. The lights work fine after having the dealership add a code.
 
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aham23

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Can someone explain what the “Sales Code” flash is or means? I see folks mention it is needed when you add headlights or fogs. Much thanks.
 

actionplus

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Have to agree with @Gregj. He saved my butt with my LED DRL/Turn signals.
Purchased them with wired harness, shipped for $220 from @JLDIESEL.
JScan, wires, and Vgate reader-$90sh (Worth it, because I will use it again for future mods)

LEDs DRL changes the look of Jeep!
I am doing the same thing. Switching the DRL and fogs to LED from halogen first.
Do you take off the bypass wires once it is programmed?(Jscan method)

Also, if tazer jl is used. Once programmed, does the bypass module come off or it has to stay there?

Thanks
 

OC4X4

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I am doing the same thing. Switching the DRL and fogs to LED from halogen first.
Do you take off the bypass wires once it is programmed?(Jscan method)

Also, if tazer jl is used. Once programmed, does the bypass module come off or it has to stay there?

Thanks
I only installed the LED fender lights. In the Rubicon, it is just plugs right in. Use the Jscan to to switch the computer to take the LEDs.
 

actionplus

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I only installed the LED fender lights. In the Rubicon, it is just plugs right in. Use the Jscan to to switch the computer to take the LEDs.
But you had to use the bypass cable assembly under the dash right? Like removing the 2 cables from under the steering, then plug in those cables to a bypass cable. http://jscan.net/jl-jt-security-bypass/
I am wrong to assume this?
But if did. Once you used the JSCAN. Did you remove this cable or does it still have to be there.
 

Deke

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But you had to use the bypass cable assembly under the dash right? Like removing the 2 cables from under the steering, then plug in those cables to a bypass cable. http://jscan.net/jl-jt-security-bypass/
I am wrong to assume this?
But if did. Once you used the JSCAN. Did you remove this cable or does it still have to be there.
Once you enable the setting with Jscan it stays persistent in the JL's computer and you can remove the bypass cable and module. The only time you would need to connect it again would be if a dealer flashed your computer. In that case you would just need to hook it up and enable the setting again with Jscan.
 

actionplus

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Once you enable the setting with Jscan it stays persistent in the JL's computer and you can remove the bypass cable and module. The only time you would need to connect it again would be if a dealer flashed your computer. In that case you would just need to hook it up and enable the setting again with Jscan.
Thanks!
Now the search begins for that bypass cable. Amazon links do not work on the jscan website.

I was looking through the JSCAN ios app, under the demo app. Was working where the Halogen to LED setting would be. I think its under Enable/Disable LED seting in the adaptation tab.

Just want to make sure I have everything I need before switching out the DRL.
 

OC4X4

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actionplus

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This is the one I got.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Y918Z3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The one I got is not available...but I'm sure one of the suggested ones would work. Anything with (Chrylser 12+8)

With this Code reader:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXMW5Q7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think The Jscan License is $24...

Thanks. Was looking at the vgate too. Found diff cables are you mentioned.
Will be looking the the jscan functions now.
Pretty much would like to
1. Fog from Halogen to LED
2. DRL from Halogen to LED
3. Tire size cal from 33 to 35

@$24 + $60 for the cable/dongle seems to be a good deal if I can do all this instead of getting the ulitmate Tazer which everyone likes.
 

Deke

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Here are the settings I changed when I swapped my fenders to LED/DRL fenders:

DRL Configuration = “Optional DRL”
DRL Dropout Enable = “Active”
DRL Lamp Location = “Dedicated”
LED Dedicated DRL Present = “Active”
Left DRL Lamps Output Present = “Active”
Right DRL Lamps Output Present = “Active”
LED Front Park/Marker Lamps Present="Active"
LED Front Turn Lamps On/Off="Active"
 

actionplus

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Here are the settings I changed when I swapped my fenders to LED/DRL fenders:

DRL Configuration = “Optional DRL”
DRL Dropout Enable = “Active”
DRL Lamp Location = “Dedicated”
LED Dedicated DRL Present = “Active”
Left DRL Lamps Output Present = “Active”
Right DRL Lamps Output Present = “Active”
LED Front Park/Marker Lamps Present="Active"
LED Front Turn Lamps On/Off="Active"

Wow. Won't have known I had to do all that.
Thanks
 

Edslittleworld

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I went with this low heat resistor for $24 a pair which is on the expensive side vs cheaper ones on Amazon or ebay. I turn on the blinker for about 10 minutes and the resistor becomes hot to touch, but not like it would melt anything. This gives me a peace of mind mounting to the plastic fenders.
I used 4 or 5 zip ties to tie it to a plastic block near the fender light. For wires, you can T-tap into negative (Black color) and turn signal power (I recall it's green and white)
https://www.headlightrevolution.com/xenondepot-xd7-5-ohm-resistor?quantity=1
Man, I wouldn't be "slapping" electronic parts like resisters into your Jeep's complex CANBUS electrical system...unless you've performed a circuit analysis. You're just asking for gremlins and could cause long-term damage as everything is now semiconductors.
 

Reactor111

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Just a note if it possibly applies to the JL. I installed LED's into a 21 JT and the halo wires were already in the harness from the factory. Stands to reason that the wires would be in the 21 and newer JL's. Just food for thought. And as far as the programmer's go, I would spend the money on the Tazer. The functions work great, easy to use and constantly being updated for new stuff. (adding LED's, proximity entry, tire size, gearing, etc.) But everyone has an opinion!
 

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