I said the drain is on the housings, not the cover( which in the picture, it shows OEM cover )
I reused the factory gasket and used the motobilt bolts.
That is good advice but also you have to use your better judgment somewhat. The quick cooling of the diffs is what can cause water to get sucked past the seal and into the differentials. That's why having good vent hoses is important. My JL transmission line already ran to the top of the engine. I ran new lines for the T-Case and front diff to the same location. The rear diff I ran above the gas fill nozzle. I just used a rubber hose from Advanced Auto. It's maybe $1 per foot. Not as cool as the ARB solution but much more cost-effective with the same results. It would take around 4 feet to touch the vent hoses and I made sure they were free-flowing. I found the factory hose plugs to be somewhat restrictive. Time of year matters as well. If wheeling in the winter at 38 degrees, a water crossing will have more of an effect on the cooling of the warm diff than a standing water hole in the summer sun. For the most part, if I'm just doing some creek crossings above the axle I usually won't drain them. When I lived in Florida and was in the 2-3 foot deep sandy marsh mud, I checked them more often. Over time you learn when you should worry about it based on what you see when you look at the fluid.
They will fit. I had the ARB diff covers for the “normal” Rubicon M210 and M220 on my 21 392. Currently have the AEV diff covers for the M210 and M220 on my 23 non-392… same diffs.
