You could weld some brackets to the frame with a removable bolt on piece that hits the front side and the back side of the steering box. You don't have to grab onto the box. Just need to stop it from wiggling.I can’t say I really disagree with you. I think the box flexing is probably 90% of it. But with that being said i really don’t know what can be done with that. I have another box actually but I don’t know it would have any less flex. The castings are all the same.
The Wobble was there before the Reid knuckles, I installed them in an attempt to fix it. But I do feel like some of the flighty feeling the Jeep has started after the knuckles. The wobble didn’t change at all.This may have been answered already, did the problem start after the REID knuckles?
I have been looking at it for a few days trying to figure out how to fab something up. Not a lot of room to do anything I would feel might make a difference. But if I could I have a feeling I might be able to retire if I patented it.You could weld some brackets to the frame with a removable bolt on piece that hits the front side and the back side of the steering box. You don't have to grab onto the box. Just need to stop it from wiggling.
Just because in reading your posts about what else was changed. I had not seen this particular part addressed in the chain of changes. Adjustable stuff is relatively of no concern. Since it can be adjusted.@jawest12, curious why you asked about the knuckles?
Got it. I was hoping you didn’t know of an issue with them! LOL! I did them and the ball joints at the same time.Just because in reading your posts about what else was changed. I had not seen this particular part addressed in the chain of changes. Adjustable stuff is relatively of no concern. Since it can be adjusted.
But hard parts, like trackbar brace, or the knuckles, just are what they are. If there was some form of manufacturing defect with knuckles, I could possibly see some weird problems introduced. Since steering geometry is equal parts simple design and some form of dark sorcery.
For #3 Couldn't you drop to 7th or 6th to increase the RPM and test that theory?Agreed. The more angle you have on the track bar the harder it has to work to keep everything centered.
I think you probably have 3 combined issues going on.
1.) That steering box wiggle. That is excessive.
2.) Track bar angle.
3.) Electric pump isn't running at max pressure when you're just driving. So for lack of a better way to say it... the pressure in the system isn't enough to account for the increased demand on the box.
The electric pump isn't RPM drivenFor #3 Couldn't you drop to 7th or 6th to increase the RPM and test that theory?
No, but my understanding is the voltage is RPM driven which in turn would increase the pressure.The electric pump isn't RPM driven
Actually I have spent hours on the phone with one of the FCA engineers about the PS system. It is actually RPM driven and speed driven, it takes engine RPM from the computer and wheel speed from the ABS system to adjust the pressure. But I would need to lower RPM in theory to increase pressure. The system decreases pressure at higher RPM and speed so it’s not as touchy. But I’m pretty sure even if I dropped RPM the wheel speed would override the RPM and pressure would stay the same.The electric pump isn't RPM driven
I am still seeing a TON of movement from the sector shaft even with the synergy brace. One of the pictures I posted was of the hole the bolt goes through for the aluminum block the shaft rides on, what is supposed to hold it in place. That hole was wallowed out and I fixed it last week, I have driven this thing MAYBE 50 miles since, the bolt is loose again and the hole is worn again. I have the other cast box and I’m actually going to try the steer smart brace with that box. If that doesn’t work I am putting the stock springs, shocks, control arms, and most likely the tie rod and drag link back on it. That’s where it was when it drove good. If it goes back to driving good I’m leaving it. Biggest think I would miss is the damn DSC shocks! When this thing drives good it rides like a caddy!You have 35's. Couldn't you pull the springs, go back to stock, reset caster ect and try it out? If you decide to sell off the parts, you have to start somewhere anyway. Hell, if it went away you are ok on a Rubicon with 35's and no lift. Put a leveling kit on it at a later time. Also, I noticed it was 37 degrees and you were at 27psi. My E's are a no go at low pressure like that. I am all over the place and yes I'll get bump steer that low. Chalk line or no chalk line, I have found that 34 cold is about as good as it gets for me. Once hot they get to 37/38.
Someone was just talking about that on another post yesterday. The box is definitely getting hammered by the suspension. I re torqued the bolts on the synergy brace that hold the bushing for the sector shaft. Drove it around for a bit and it was driving half way decent. Hit my favorite bump and it was better than it was earlier today,put about 30 miles or so on it and beat it up some on some crappy back roads. Started driving like crap and got home and the bolts were loose again. I had put red locktite on it last week also.I still think you should be the guinea pig and try the Teraflex raised bracket.
That will obviously change the track bar angle back closer to stock angle.
https://teraflex.com/shop_items/jl-jlu-front-track-bar-axle-bracket-kit-2-5-3-5-lift