Speaker replacement upgrade

[bcup]

I replaced the factory which were not alpine with all kicker speakers

I had to remove the side pieces on the dash for the knee speakers, but were easy to do. I did add an amplifier to the speakers as well, see below:
Speakers:
Kicker DSC 350 x 2-dash and above the head
Kicker 44KSC404 x 2 - knee and above the head
Kicker 11H58 x 2 -150watt powered 8" subwoofers
Kicker DXA500.1 ( 43DXA5001) amp

Did you have to modify anything putting in the dash and roll bar speakers for the kickers?

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[Kramers_JLUR18]

Where did you procure those pods from? I am looking at getting those and the ssv works pods too, gonna run JL C1 front component and rear coaxial, add a powered sub...are you running them off stock non alpine headunit? Does anyone think the 7" non alpine headunit amp can run 6.5 aftermarket speakers ok seeing as they will be 4ohm vs 8ohm and more efficient?

So I was going to wait for the 6.5 adapters but I don’t have patience to wait til January when SSV ships them out. So now I’m putting in morel Tempo ultra 402 Integra and to go along with Kappa Infinity 2 1/2 inch mid range. Don’t know exactly how it’ll sound but I’m not willing to pay 750 for the focal components nor the morel hybrid for 700. I just have one question thou not putting in a component set there. Will it affect anything?

 

[cm88_bruins]

https://www.ssvworks.com/product/Jeep-Wrangler-JL-and+JT-overhead-soundbar-6.5in-speaker-adapter

Looks like ya put in your preferred 6.5, slap em in...however how does one wire up a coaxial from the "components" that are in there? Splice in before the stock wiring splits to the 2 stock speakers?

In case anyone is interested, I ordered the SSVWorks 6.5" roll bar adapter a few weeks ago. I contacted the company's customer service department and they anticipate shipping the units out the first week of January.

EDIT: I just looked at the site and they updated it to reflect shipments January 6th.

 

[Gatorator]

I can't, for the life of me, find any detailed information on how to pull the front speaker pods out. I have the Metra replacement pods JP-1014 on the way. I have an Alpine 4x100 RMS, Compact Powered Sub, PAC AmpPro, and some 6.5' Morel Maximo Ultras ready to go. I'll sort out the sound bar later. I think I have a handle on a lot of the process from the dash panel removal info posted, but can't find squat on the kick panel pod removal.
Anyone help?

 

[CouchPotato]

Some info here, although the passenger side is much easier than described in the video.



On the passenger side, just take the glove box out, take the screws out of the side and bottom of the dash, unscrew the speaker pod and it will rotate out of the glove box opening. The driver's side is a real bastard though. Even after I took out everything I thought I needed to on the driver's side I still couldn't get the pod out and ended up replacing the speaker without removing the pod. I was replacing them with 4" speakers so it didn't have to come out for me.

This is as far as I made it on the driver's side before I gave up. I couldn't see what else I could remove to get it out. Someone else can probably chime in.

 

[Go Outside]

Huge thanks to Carstereochick!
I just ordered some pods. I was about to pull the trigger on some Morels until I realized that when I made the choice to go with the Morels we didnt have the pods opening up the 6.5" components field. So, does anyone (yes im looking at you) have any suggestions for some 6.5's that work well in these pods for under $300?
I used to be a high end audiophile installer, even took a 3rd place at an IMSA event with a Saturn. But that was the '90s when Boston Accoustics components were the best and I was spending someone else's money. Things have changed a lot. These days I can be satisfied with a Honda Element or a Volvo sport wagon stock system. Well, satisfied enough not to spend the time and money upgrading it.
My point is if Im going to put in the time and effort, I need to go far enough to make it worth my while without going further than I need to. I just want a system loud enough to hear with the top down while remaining clean and punchy. My days of droning down the road, high on sub 30hz bass drops are probably behind me so a small sealed sub will be fine allowing the components to crossover at a higher frequency. I am more interested in feeling the slap of Les Claypools bass or the punch from Danny Carey's drums without distorting the vocals or having my ears scratched out by the tweets.
Wow this is getting long.
Im going to have to do this in stages. Stage one is going to be just the speakers in pods off the stock 7" head unit.
A few months/year later, Stage two will be amping them and adding a small sub, probably under seat.
So any advice for an efficient 6.5" component that will eventually get 50-100watts?

 

[Hair Missile]

Huge thanks to Carstereochick!
I just ordered some pods. I was about to pull the trigger on some Morels until I realized that when I made the choice to go with the Morels we didnt have the pods opening up the 6.5" components field. So, does anyone (yes im looking at you) have any suggestions for some 6.5's that work well in these pods for under $300?
I used to be a high end audiophile installer, even took a 3rd place at an IMSA event with a Saturn. But that was the '90s when Boston Accoustics components were the best and I was spending someone else's money. Things have changed a lot. These days I can be satisfied with a Honda Element or a Volvo sport wagon stock system. Well, satisfied enough not to spend the time and money upgrading it.
My point is if Im going to put in the time and effort, I need to go far enough to make it worth my while without going further than I need to. I just want a system loud enough to hear with the top down while remaining clean and punchy. My days of droning down the road, high on sub 30hz bass drops are probably behind me so a small sealed sub will be fine allowing the components to crossover at a higher frequency. I am more interested in feeling the slap of Les Claypools bass or the punch from Danny Carey's drums without distorting the vocals or having my ears scratched out by the tweets.
Wow this is getting long.
Im going to have to do this in stages. Stage one is going to be just the speakers in pods off the stock 7" head unit.
A few months/year later, Stage two will be amping them and adding a small sub, probably under seat.
So any advice for an efficient 6.5" component that will eventually get 50-100watts?

Well said. I feel like I’m right there with ya, music taste and all. I started thinking I’d go for it and get the Morel Hybrids. Now I’m thinking the pods plus something half the price paired with an amp/sub I already own. Especially when I’m playing at normal volumes out cruising with the family much of the time. I want the best!...oh wait those are how much? Will I even notice?

I’d like Tool with the top off, sounding good and undistorted, and please don’t make my tinnitus flair up when I just want to feel a little thump.

Only one car audio shop near me and they had Alpine and JL Audio. My ears much preferred JL Audio C2 or C5 components over Alpine Type S or Type R. Need to find a Morel dealer and compare Tempo Ultras vs Hybrids just to torture my wallet.

Sound is so dang subjective and there are so many choices. Guess that is part of the fun? ;-)

 

[Go Outside]

...Sound is so dang subjective and there are so many choices...

Yup, Im hoping Carstereochick chimes in. After reading all 16 pages of this thread I trust that she wont recommend something just because its loud or she saw it on a car in a video. Her tastes are a little hi-end for my current wallet, but when I was in the business there were always some underated or unappreciated parts that could save money. In my YJ I built kick panel pods that held a pair of 4" Pioneer separates. Pioneer wasnt a hi-end player but they made this incredible pair of hi-end seperates for a minute. Nobody would spend the money for Pioneer so I got them at a nice price.
She mentioned BLAM speakers and Im hoping they are going to be the same deal.

 

[Robbnva]

I replaced the factory which were not alpine with all kicker speakers

I had to remove the side pieces on the dash for the knee speakers, but were easy to do. I did add an amplifier to the speakers as well, see below:
Speakers:
Kicker DSC 350 x 2-dash and above the head
Kicker 44KSC404 x 2 - knee and above the head
Kicker 11H58 x 2 -150watt powered 8" subwoofers
Kicker DXA500.1 ( 43DXA5001) amp

I just bought these these speakers and I couldn’t figure out how to install them. They aren’t plug and play and the wire harness crutchfield recommended didn’t work either. So now I’m returning them and I have no idea what to buy. The speakers suggested by car stereo chick are all out of my price range. Are there any decent plug and play options? If not what are decent inexpensive speakers and what do I need to install them. Thanks.

 

[RSK]

I just bought these these speakers and I couldn’t figure out how to install them. They aren’t plug and play and the wire harness crutchfield recommended didn’t work either. So now I’m returning them and I have no idea what to buy. The speakers suggested by car stereo chick are all out of my price range. Are there any decent plug and play options? If not what are decent inexpensive speakers and what do I need to install them. Thanks.

For me the dash 3.5” speakers take this adapter:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Metra-72-7902-Car-Audio-Speaker-Wire-Harness/267510000

And for what I understand, the larger speakers need this adapter:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Pair-o...and-Dodge-Vehicles-4-Total-Adapters/127235218

They just slide-on or snap, real easy.

 

[Robbnva]

For me the dash 3.5” speakers take this adapter:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Metra-72-7902-Car-Audio-Speaker-Wire-Harness/267510000

And for what I understand, the larger speakers need this adapter:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Pair-o...and-Dodge-Vehicles-4-Total-Adapters/127235218

They just slide-on or snap, real easy.

Wow thanks. I had been searching for the right ones and wasn’t having luck.

 

[Go Outside]

I made some adjustments and now i am impressed with the stock system. At low volumes the bass is incredible for a 4” speaker. At high volumes it self modulates rather than distorts.
I faded to the rear when i first got the jeep expecting the sound bar with those big speaker grills to be where the sound would be. I never expected tuned and ported enclosures in the dash. Well done jeep.
Thanks to this thread pointing out that the sound bar is just for fill, i brought my fade back up front and made some tone adjustments. I can live with this until spring when the top comes off. As long as i dont try to rock out its fine for my commute.

 

[Go Outside]

For what its worth, i just ran out of daylight while sound deadning and polyfilling the sound bar. So, i buttoned up the left side and compared it to the stock right side. ...
The right side sounds better.
The left has less low range and sounds a bit muddy now. It is very hard to tell but it is definitely not better and in no way worth the time investment.
This is why i got out of the business. It is very hard to improve on a well designed stock system without spending big money.

 

[jeeplaw]

Wait, all you did was polyfill and put sound deadening in? And that screwed up the output?

 

[Go Outside]

Wait, all you did was polyfill and put sound deadening in? And that screwed up the output?

minimally, but yes. It doesnt make sense, but thats what my ears say.

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