Speaker replacement upgrade

[Asylum]

Kicker came with manta connectors. Dodge speakers were plug and play. Receiver got super hot too.(side note)

Stock Alpine amplified?

Sponsored

 

[Molson123123]

Anyone have any idea why when I have the volume at zero there is white noise / fuzz coming thru the speakers?

I have the PSS-23WRA.

Your gain is set too high. I had the same problem. Turn that down and it’s great

 

[cm88_bruins]

Check the ground with a multi-meter, make sure its a good ground. Other than that, I would turn down the gain on the amplifier.

Your gain is set too high. I had the same problem. Turn that down and it’s great

I played with the gain today and got it to a point where the fuzz is minimal and the sound is good. Thanks!

 

[Daddy4zack]

Regular non alpine. Non amplified

 

[Asylum]

Regular non alpine. Non amplified

You have an 8.4" U connect without premium? Try ohm-ing out the replacement speakers you have and see if they match the OEM ones. If they match then the only thing it could be would be the wiring.

 

[Daddy4zack]

I’ll try that

 

[Joe_S]

So I ordered a couple of pairs of the 77KICK25AB speakers everyone has been using to replace the stock speakers. The ones I put in the soundbar sound great. The two I put in the dash were crackling badly. I looked at the box they came in, and it looked like parts of a previous return label was on the box. I assumed they were both blown and returned previously, and the seller just never checked them.

Anyone else have this issue with the fronts crackling? I'd like to know before I order another pair.

 

[Daddy4zack]

So I ordered a couple of pairs of the 77KICK25AB speakers everyone has been using to replace the stock speakers. The ones I put in the soundbar sound great. The two I put in the dash were crackling badly. I looked at the box they came in, and it looked like parts of a previous return label was on the box. I assumed they were both blown and returned previously, and the seller just never checked them.

Anyone else have this issue with the fronts crackling? I'd like to know before I order another pair.

That’s what happened to me. Sound was way less and distorted/cracking

 

[Joe_S]

That’s what happened to me. Sound was way less and distorted/cracking

But just the fronts?

 

[Daddy4zack]

But just the fronts?

Fronts were definitely more noticeable.

 

[Joe_S]

Fronts were definitely more noticeable.

Ok. I've got no issues with the ones I put in the sound bar. That's why I figured the other pair were blown.

 

[Asylum]

Ok. I've got no issues with the ones I put in the sound bar. That's why I figured the other pair were blown.

Something to keep in mind is that the 3.5 size is incredibly tiny. I would always recommend wiring on bass blockers on the 3.5in speakers at like 300hz. I would not be surprised if you were buying 3.5 speakers online that someone blew and returned.

Like I said earlier I have not dug into my speaker install yet but I did add an aftermarket sub. Set the sub amp crossover at around 120hz and turned the bass down to -5 on the stereo. I get clean sound out of the speakers even at very high volume. Its not perfect but its a good bandaid for now.

 

[bajanut]

I am by no means a expert on this subject. But I have been reading up on the subject quite a bit recently, and I fear that @Asylum is correct. The lower resistance is very difficult for the stock amplifier in your radio. It may have been the longer run time allowed it to build up enough heat that it shut down. I hope that you can get it fixed, I have been looking at JBL GX speakers too, they have a nice sound.

I am happy to report that the speakers are working wonderfully I did not do anything but start the car after a few hours of being parked in front of my office. This past weekend I added a sub-woofer under the rear, driver side seat to be able to use the firewall hole next to the brake pedal (I drilled a hole in the plastic cover just big enough to run the 8Ga wire to the battery and not have to seal), run the power cable along the bottom door frame trim on the driver side as well as the sub controller cable. Used "T" connectors and tapped into the speaker wires from the passenger side door column (where the seat belt is) and then run the wires inside the bottom passenger side door frame trim back and under the carpet under the back seat across to the sub. Also there is a very convenient ground bolt at the back of the bottom door trim next to the driver side, rear seat which is probable a foot away from the sub connection, Now the sound is amazing!. I would definitely recommend the speakers I described in my original post, so clear once you take out the bass from them and transfer it to the sub. It was time consuming, it took me probably 4 hours and one hour to finally give up on using the passenger side firewall grommet behind the glove compartment which was a pain in the neck and use the driver side hole (soooo much easier) but I wanted a straight shot to the battery), also tag another hour to being a perfectionist (*nal about how I do things). But in the end it all worked the way is is supposed to (fingers crossed LOL).

 

[bajanut]

By the way the speaker wires in the passenger side column are two of the three twisted set of wires in the bunch, check the color codes I can't recall right now exactly, but they all have a dark green, lime green and gray combinations. There is a post with the color codes somewhere in here.

 

[debandi]

Ordered speaker upgrade parts yesterday for my 2019 2 door with factory Alpine stereo.

-Metra JP-1014 Speaker pods for front dash
-SSV Works JJT-SA065 speaker adaptor for sound bar
-PAC AmpPro AP4-CH41 R.2
-Alpine R-S65C.2 for front (I'll mount the tweeters in the original upper dash speaker location)
-Alpine R-S65C.2 for sound bar
-Alpine R-A60F Amplifier

Looking forward to installing the project in the next few weeks.

Sponsored