SOLVED: Wolfbox G900 Tripro Bumper Version Hardware Problem

[Terrymo]

@BDinTX and @Terrymo Ted and Terry, that explains the difference. I don’t have a flat area to 3M it to. I had to use the hinged bracket and zip-tie it to the bull bar. There is no other place on my bumper to center-mount it. I could tape it to the control box of my winch, but the bull bar obstructs the view.

If you end up needing another bracket I can mail you one. Also if you aren’t successful, send me the exact bull bar diameter, and I can have my son 3D print something with ABS filament.

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[Wbino]

If you end up needing another bracket I can mail you one. Also if you aren’t successful, send me the exact bull bar diameter, and I can have my son 3D print something with ABS filament.

Did you ever get your flipped image figured out on the digital mirror they sell?

 

[Terrymo]

Did you ever get your flipped image figured out on the digital mirror they sell?

No I moved on. I think I was just nit picking and it’s easy enough to flip the photo. The mirror displays in the same manner a rear view mirror would, I just thought somehow a photo taken from the rear camera would be as you would see whatever was behind you if you were looking back at it with your eye and not through the mirror image.

 

[Wabujitsu]

No I moved on. I think I was just nit picking and it’s easy enough to flip the photo. The mirror displays in the same manner a rear view mirror would, I just thought somehow a photo taken from the rear camera would be as you would see whatever was behind you if you were looking back at it with your eye and not through the mirror image.

Terry, thank you for the offer, but I’m good! I want to experiment with the hardware provided; I’m trying to find solutions for Wolfbox. I do have a couple of extra brackets to work with. If I need more, I will take you up on your gracious offer, brother.

 

[Wabujitsu]

I found my solution for mounting the bumper cam on the bull bar. @WOLFBOX CAR LIFE, I am tagging you so you can forward my results and conclusions to your engineering team.

First, zip ties do work - IF you completely close the hinged mounting plate and tighten the hinge screws as tight as possible.. Just thread the zip ties through the slots - one in each of the outer pre-cut grooves, then around the bull bar - and then one down the middle, over the base plate, through the hinge gap, then around the bull bar.

As previously stated, elevating the camera by opening the hinges results in an unusable view/video, due to everything the camera sees waving and shaking madly on the screen, starting at very low vehicle speeds.

I tried to dampen whatever vibrations were causing the image sensor to go nuts, by placing rubber shims in the hinge gap, under the base plate, and between the base and camera plate, but I was totally unsuccessful.

Here is my simple solution to mount the camera on the bull bar: a short piece of angled aluminum, painted (except where the 3M tape attaches), screwed into the bull bar. I used Tapcon screws after drilling pilot holes. Four screws on the top of the aluminum (where the camera mounts) is quite sufficient to hold it on the bull bar permanently. Then, simply 3M your camera to the top, flat surface.

I have extremely stable video at all speeds, no matter how bumpy the road or trail is. See photo below. Please note the paint is still wet in spots, reflecting brightly back at my iPhone camera. I also will have to hit the front plate with fine grit sandpaper or steel wool, then add another coat of paint - because right now it looks like crap.

 

[WOLFBOX CAR LIFE]

I found my solution for mounting the bumper cam on the bull bar. @WOLFBOX CAR LIFE, I am tagging you so you can forward my results and conclusions to your engineering team.

First, zip ties do work - IF you completely close the hinged mounting plate and tighten the hinge screws as tight as possible.. Just thread the zip ties through the slots - one in each of the outer pre-cut grooves, then around the bull bar - and then one down the middle, over the base plate, through the hinge gap, then around the bull bar.

As previously stated, elevating the camera by opening the hinges results in an unusable view/video, due to everything the camera sees waving and shaking madly on the screen, starting at very low vehicle speeds.

I tried to dampen whatever vibrations were causing the image sensor to go nuts, by placing rubber shims in the hinge gap, under the base plate, and between the base and camera plate, but I was totally unsuccessful.

Here is my simple solution to mount the camera on the bull bar: a short piece of angled aluminum, painted (except where the 3M tape attaches), screwed into the bull bar. I used Tapcon screws after drilling pilot holes. Four screws on the top of the aluminum (where the camera mounts) is quite sufficient to hold it on the bull bar permanently. Then, simply 3M your camera to the top, flat surface.

I have extremely stable video at all speeds, no matter how bumpy the road or trail is. See photo below. Please note the paint is still wet in spots, reflecting brightly back at my iPhone camera. I also will have to hit the front plate with fine grit sandpaper or steel wool, then add another coat of paint - because right now it looks like crap.

Nice work! I'll send this to my engineering team.

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