SL vs C load rated tires

[jf99]

I am looking at another set of tires for my 2022 Willys 2 door. It is a 3.6L 6MT soft top and completely stock so one of the lighter weight builds available, and that is intentional. I will be keeping the OEM Firestone MT on another set of wheels. My new tire will be my daily driver tire here in Central Oregon, so mostly around town, highway and FS roads. They will see snow and ice so 3PMS is required. Anyhow, I know a Standard load SL tire is rated to handle the load no problem but I am just a little concerned about durability. What rock there is around here is volcanic and can be pretty sharp. Looking at specs between tires it looks like 255/75R17 in a C rating range from 40-46lbs. same size in SL range from 38-41lbs so there is a slight overlap in tire weight despite different ratings. Some manufactures offer the exact same tire in both C and SL and the weight difference there is around 6 lbs. I imagine that is basically all in carcass thickness. I am a bit of a "weight weeny". Heavy tires kill performance, its rotational mass that hurts acceleration, braking, MPG ect..., and its additional unsprung weight that reduces suspension performance. Another area that weight really kills that nobody ever talks about is the BLD system, the brake lock differential system reacts faster and functions much better with lighter tires. Anyhow, the option of using SL tires opens up my choices. Anyone have any real world input? If I am going to do any serious trips with lots of off roading I would put my MT's back on. Thanks

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[Reinen]

If you have volcanic rock around I'd definitely go with C. That extra weight is all armor and you may very well need it with volcanic rock around. The benefits of the lighter SL would be moot if they get slashed by a sharp volcanic rock.

Also keep in mind that 3PMSF only applies to snow, not ice. Improved ice traction is indicated by the new Icy Peak rating found on Winter Tires.

 

[azwjowner]

I ran XL and SL tires for seven years offroad on my WJ that I had before my JL -- the Cooper AT3 (and then its successor, the AT3 4S). I didn't want E load tires. I never had a flat despite going over tons of rocky Arizona trails and occasionally fairly nasty rocks. But I drive like a surgeon -- even on a dirt road with only a few rocks sticking up, I'm always aware of where are my tires and the small rocks sticking up, and I make micro-corrections on the steering wheel to prevent running into a pointy rock at speed. That's just naturally how I do things -- with precision. If that's how you also drive, it can be done.

On my recommendation, my friend bought the same Discoverer AT3 4S tires. He had two flats in 6 months and he drives much easier trails/roads than I do. How is that possible? Well, he drives faster than me on the wide dirt backroads that we have in the desert and he just points his vehicle down the middle of the road and drives. No incessant micro-adjustments to the steering wheel. So occasionally he'd hit a pointy rock and kill a tire. But he didn't go to C load -- he instead switched for the Cooper Rugged Trek in SL, which has a bit more meat on the tread, and that solved his problem. That and I think he slowed down a bit. So that worked for him.

On my JL I went with load range C. Despite having a perfect record with passenger rated tires offroad, I feel much more comfortable in the middle of nowhere with C load. When I'm in sharp rocks instead of worrying, I'm calmer. Really the only reason I'd consider SL/XL is if E is your only alternative, as it was for me with my WJ size. But it absolutely can be done, if you're careful.

 

[Reinen]

I ran XL and SL tires for seven years offroad on my WJ that I had before my JL -- the Cooper AT3 (and then its successor, the AT3 4S). I didn't want E load tires. I never had a flat despite going over tons of rocky Arizona trails and occasionally fairly nasty rocks. But I drive like a surgeon -- even on a dirt road with only a few rocks sticking up, I'm always aware of where are my tires and the small rocks sticking up, and I make micro-corrections on the steering wheel to prevent running into a pointy rock at speed. That's just naturally how I do things -- with precision. If that's how you also drive, it can be done.

On my recommendation, my friend bought the same Discoverer AT3 4S tires. He had two flats in 6 months and he drives much easier trails/roads than I do. How is that possible? Well, he drives faster than me on the wide dirt backroads that we have in the desert and he just points his vehicle down the middle of the road and drives. No incessant micro-adjustments to the steering wheel. So occasionally he'd hit a pointy rock and kill a tire. But he didn't go to C load -- he instead switched for the Cooper Rugged Trek in SL, which has a bit more meat on the tread, and that solved his problem. That and I think he slowed down a bit. So that worked for him.

On my JL I went with load range C. Despite having a perfect record with passenger rated tires offroad, I feel much more comfortable in the middle of nowhere with C load. When I'm in sharp rocks instead of worrying, I'm calmer. Really the only reason I'd consider SL/XL is if E is your only alternative, as it was for me with my WJ size. But it absolutely can be done, if you're careful.

Very good point. I'm like you, envisioning exactly where my tires are going to go on the trail ahead of me. But there are many who just point in a general direction and send it. It makes a huge difference.

 

[jf99]

I'll probably go with a C. The stock Willy's Firestone Mt is about the heaviest tire around so I can still save a bunch of weight while staying with a c rated tire.

 

[2nd 392]

A “bit” or a genuine weight weenie ? I replaced the stock 285/70 KO2’s with 8 lb heavier 35/12.50’s. I have ordered (back order ?) forged 8 1/2” wheels 10 lbs lighter than my stock 7 1/2” ones. Genuine weight weenie cost $2,775 to save 2 lbs with a larger tire and wheel combo. ?

 

[2nd 392]

@jf99 - edit, that was the number for my wife…. + tax, shipping, Teraflex carrier, and XR flare extensions. shhh, don’t tell ?

 

[Jeffy56]

SL and C are pretty close to weight rating. More important for air downs, off camber bumps/rocks. The actual tread and sidewall rubber is likely the same for both ratings. That material is what sharp volcanic rocks will effect, not the carcass or cords.

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