Rubicon XR differentials

[Zandcwhite]

I just finished painting my metal cloak covers. Ended up buying royal purple 75w/140 tonight but only bought 3 quarts. I didn’t factor in that the covers might require more oil. I kinda regret going with metal cloak, though. They’re cheaper (probably the only time that’ll happen) than arb or some others but the others at least have the fill hole where the level of gear oil is supposed to be, magnets to catch any shavings, etc. Would have made this a lot easier. But I’m a pretty big fan of MC. Have the undercloak already and the diff skids that’ll go on after I finish installing the new covers. I had read about the XR’s bump stops but didn’t truly grasp how big they were and how much they impede articulation until I took it out for the first time. I read one guy just did 2.5 springs and shocks and was happy. After talking to MC, though they highly recommend at least the 2.5 true dual kit. I didn’t want to spend so much so quickly. I’ll probably just have to deal with less articulation for a couple of months and then I’ll go for the 3.5 true dual lift kit with rock sports. Kinda feel like 2.5 is a bit of waste of money.

No need for the whole kit, they are sales people after all. We went MC 3 5" springs, bilstein 5100s, longer front lower control arms, and longer sway bar end links. For the sway bar end links you can get away with just buying extended rears and running the rears up front. We ran rocksports on the 2019 and although they flex great I felt they were too soft. Our axles are about 1/2" off center running stock track bars but it isn't noticeable to the naked eye and hasn't caused any rubbing or spring bowing. I'm happy with it for what we have in it. If I had it to do over again, I think I'd go MC front drop brackets with stock arms before buying LCAs as the improved arm angles should really help ride and flex. That being said, she flexes well with just a couple mods.

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[HDSlowride]

I sure realize that there are gear oils out there that fully meet the GL-5 requirements and weight that is recommended for these differentials, and that at considerably less cost. There was a time that I would never have considered paying this much for a lubricant when there are equivalents out there for quite a bit of savings.
In this case, I consider it an insurance policy in case there is ever an issue with those Tru-Lok sensors going out and having to do something nuts like replace the entire axle assembly. I can say that I came to the dealership and changed my fluid at your recommendation and here is the proof.

 

[Zandcwhite]

I sure realize that there are gear oils out there that fully meet the GL-5 requirements and weight that is recommended for these differentials, and that at considerably less cost. There was a time that I would never have considered paying this much for a lubricant when there are equivalents out there for quite a bit of savings.
In this case, I consider it an insurance policy in case there is ever an issue with those Tru-Lok sensors going out and having to do something nuts like replace the entire axle assembly. I can say that I came to the dealership and changed my fluid at your recommendation and here is the proof.

They sell just the sensors now, for only a bit more than you paid for gear oil...

 

[Byrds8]

$60 a QT is nuts. I paid $102 for 4 QTs of Amsoil. I put 75W-140 in mine though as that is what Dana recommended and others on this forum.

 

[Old Jeeper]

Hey guys,
I’m looking to replace the diff covers on my 23 rubi xr. I can’t for the life of me find the gaskets for these, or how much gear oil to use? Owners manual just states 75w/85 GL 5. I also can’t find that anywhere. Even the dealerships don’t have any. Closest thing I can find is royal purple 75w/90 GL 5. Would this be okay? They’re the DRF and DJV axles, m210hd wide and m220hd wide. Has anyone else run into this problem? For what it’s worth I live in the northeast and wheel hard pretty regularly, hence the aftermarket diff covers.

Unless things have changed, you park on a level surface and fill to the lower edge of the fill plug.

As far as the viscosity of oil 75w/90 GL 5 is fine. I would be cautious about going beyond that due to you living in the NE and it gets COLD, cold thickens the oil.

Cannot find a gasket, NO BIG DEAL: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-33694-Right-Stuff-Gasket/dp/B000HBNWVG?th=1

 

[Old Jeeper]

Holy rip off Batman!!! $60 a quart? You do realize mopar/Jeep does not manufacture gear oil. It is simply bottled by another company with their logo on it and that there are fluids out there that meet their spec that cost 1/10th what you paid. I’m one picky SOB when it comes to my vehicles and maintenance and I love the best as much as anyone else out there, but I do refuse to pay blood money prices from dealers especially when it’s just a rebranded or repackaged product. Not bashing you I’m really not, I just hate seeing people be taken advantage of when it can be avoided.

WOW, X 2.

I would $60 a quart IF the container says: Aged in Oak barrels, 9 years 90 proof

 

[Dyolfknip74]

Unless things have changed, you park on a level surface and fill to the lower edge of the fill plug.

As far as the viscosity of oil 75w/90 GL 5 is fine. I would be cautious about going beyond that due to you living in the NE and it gets COLD, cold thickens the oil.

Cannot find a gasket, NO BIG DEAL: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-33694-Right-Stuff-Gasket/dp/B000HBNWVG?th=1

I'd be more inclined to get a Lube Locker or OEM (I think also Lube Locker) one over using RTV. That shit is a mess. Lol

 

[Byrds8]

I have been told the gasket is re-useable. So why not just reuse it.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I have been told the gasket is re-useable. So why not just reuse it.

Yep, I pulled my covers no less than 10 times before replacing the gaskets and still kept the old ones as spares.

OP - I would run 75W-140 no matter how cold it gets. 75 is the winter rating and it will flow in the cold just as well as 75W-90, but will offer more protection under higher loads.

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