What'd you end up getting? I too was looking at the rigids because of past experience.
Thanks so much for the detailed response, incredibly helpful. Is it enough to disconnect the main battery only, or do I need to disconnect the secondary battery as well. Do you crimp AND use shrink tube, or one or the other? Thanks again!1: Crimped butt connectors under shrink tube.
2: Crimped/ shrink tubed eyelets attached by nut to one of the many grounding posts under the hood (I did mine directly to the battery)
3: No.....no electrical tape anywhere.
4: Yes, theres a couple open locations Jeep engineered in to the JL to allow wire looms to pass through from the engine bay through or around the firewall. I was surprised how much they catered to the end user for mods. Theres at least one hole in the firewall around the electrical area with a blank rubber plug if you want to go through, or what I used, was the eyelet on the driver side hood baffle (its foam) that allows you to get a 3/4" loom of cable for whatever out of the engine bay around the firewall into the cowl area (which you can then sneak into the cabin by folding the windshield and closing it on top). I did the latter, since I had a pre-fab wire harness.
5: For safety.......yes. Was I stupid and was simply lucky I didn't get poked by installing the wiring without disconnecting? Also yes.
Mind you, I did "phone in" the wiring install to a standard that is below what Id consider "professional". Though, I did make sure everything is A: water resistant, and B: entirely safe (correct gauge wiring, relay, fused, no chaffing/ rub points, no kinks, etc). Having a pre made wire harness is a big help with the safety aspect though. As long as you don't pinch wires or put them where they'd melt, chafe, crush, or snag....you won't have to worry about burning your jeep down.
Once I accumulate more accessories (more lights, winch, CB, HAM, PA/ loud speaker) all that 'temporary' wiring will be gutted and fully replaced by using a dedicated control center commanding a dedicated fused/ relayed power box. That way all the big draw power is kept under hood on the 'hot' side of the firewall (where it should be). You can buy one for $300-$500.....but building them is half the fun, and well below 1/2 the cost....even if you're using top shelf components.
Not my JK box....
But inspiration for my JL box. Heres the current mock up. Still a work in progress with layout, but the wiring will all feed into a sealed relay box under hood.
I just got the RC kit in, and was able to mount up the Rigid D-SS's.
Heres my thoughts....
....In no way am I trying to bash on Rough country here....their $99 package deal is still a good value.....but I was a bit disappointed with the quality of the lights.
The mounts are thin stamped sheet metal (to be expected at this price point) but they are lopsided...noticeably. This is some lax QC.
Also, the lights are definitely painted (again, to be expected at this price point), but there are a number of bubbles all around the housing. I could see this paint fading and flaking off after just a season or two in the salty north.
Again....not trying to rub RC too much.... but the lopsided brackets are just a bit over the edge for me in the QC department. Value price point or not.
Im still going to use them, but either on the bumper or as reverse lights.
The mounts themselves are a heavy gauge steel, and are powder coated in a rough texture matte finish. They do sit quite low though. The mounting bolt for the Rigid and RC cubes come in contact with the cowl. I ended up having to take off 5 threads from the bottom to get enough clearance.
But other than that, I really like the mount. It puts the cubes well off to the side and down low out of my field of vision.
Overall Im very pleased with this setup.
I also ordered 3 sets of covers too. Amber, to help with visibility in snow/ dust, smoke, to reduce total output if I need to, and DOT approved blackout covers (its a $250/ea fine for having uncovered off road lamps mounted above factory headlights.) Quadreatec had them on sale for like $7....so I just went nuts.
Your talking about disconnecting battery if you are direct connecting to it correct? I’m thinking you don’t need to disconnect the battery if you’re using the Aux. Wires as long as the Aux Switch is off or am I wrong?
So you bought the $99 RC kit, basically threw away their light cubes, bought the Rigid D-SS spots, upgraded the bulbs and bam, you had your solution? Am I tracking you here?
Still happy with your cube light decision, I am getting ready to pull the trigger on some...does the hood eat up any of the light or are the offset enough to avoid that? Appreciate the feedback...Installed tonight. Good solid bracket and easy install.
