Roadshock Edge 6" using AUX switches

[NJRadioGuy]

Hey all,
I have a set of Harbor Freight Roadshock Edge 6" spots that I'd like to mount on my Ruibicon using the Jeep's AUX switchs instead of the Harbor Freight wiring harness. Anybody know how to do this?

The Harbor Freight harness has a built-in DPDT switch and DPDT relay to only allow one lighting mode (low beam or high beam) to be active and not both at the same time, which will damage the lights. I'd rather not start cutting into my dash panels/etc to mount their harness if possible. Please and thanks.

Links:
Lights: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-led-off-road-spotflood-combo-59237.html
Harness: https://www.harborfreight.com/off-road-light-wiring-harness-59105.html
Manual with schematic: https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/59000-59999/59237-193175462718.pdf

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[lashlee]

The easiest way to wire them to the OEM Aux switches while keeping the high and low beam function would be to cut the harness at the switch, two wires are your high and low beam. Take the two wires that are the high and low and wire them to two of the wires from the OEM Aux switches. Pins 1 (low beam) and 4 (high beam) of the light connector are the two colors you want to use. Wire the two ring terminal wires (red and black) to the battery.

 

[Zandcwhite]

If you keep the relay and wire as described above use aux switches 3 and 4 as they are low amp and leave the high amp switches for other accessories that may not have a relay. You can do all wiring under the hood at the harness right next to the battery. Seal up your connections with heat shrink or liquid electrical tape.

 

[NJRadioGuy]

If you keep the relay and wire as described above use aux switches 3 and 4 as they are low amp and leave the high amp switches for other accessories that may not have a relay.

I have my A-pillar lights on Aux 3, and will be using Aux 4 for my chase lights, so I'll have to use 1 and 2. But I see the potential problem now, with having to press both switches in the correct sequence to switch from low to high beam or vice-versa. If there's a lot going on and I get even slightly distracted that could be a problem if I hit the wrong one. The more I think about this, the more I'm inclined to just to it their way and use the rocker switch. I just hate the idea of cutting into my dash!

 

[Zandcwhite]

I have my A-pillar lights on Aux 3, and will be using Aux 4 for my chase lights, so I'll have to use 1 and 2. But I see the potential problem now, with having to press both switches in the correct sequence to switch from low to high beam or vice-versa. If there's a lot going on and I get even slightly distracted that could be a problem if I hit the wrong one. The more I think about this, the more I'm inclined to just to it their way and use the rocker switch. I just hate the idea of cutting into my dash!

Do you need high and low beam? If I want off road lights, I'd only want high anyway. You could wire it with no low, save an Aux switch, and never worry about turning them both on?

 

[LanceMagnum]

Given the schematic there's a little work if you want full functionality and a nice 'UI'

Looks like you can run one of the 40amp aux wires to the common of the relay (30) and that it's NC to 87a (low beam), so if you press the aux button you get low. I'd then tap into the high beam circuit to power the relay coil (85). You then would use your high beams to control when you want the highs on. You could also wire the ignition to the amber if you want backlights always on when running, or you could splice into the same aux circuit so they are only on when aux is pressed.

I use a variation of this on my lights (the switch and relay are in series) - I can keep my aux on all the time if I want, it's only when I hit my high beams that the lights turn on (they are BD LP4's), which is all I need, I don't need to independently control them.

I believe someone makes a plug-n-play adapter but tapping into the high beam wire is not too bad:

 

[mygreenkaw]

@NJRadioGuy

Did you mount the Roadshock Edge 6"?

Any pictures?

 

[NJRadioGuy]

Not yet. I'm doing steering this month and skid plates shortly afterwards. Lights are nice, but not as nice as good steering Hopefully over the winter.

 

[NJRadioGuy]

Given the schematic there's a little work if you want full functionality and a nice 'UI'

Looks like you can run one of the 40amp aux wires to the common of the relay (30) and that it's NC to 87a (low beam), so if you press the aux button you get low. I'd then tap into the high beam circuit to power the relay coil (85). You then would use your high beams to control when you want the highs on. You could also wire the ignition to the amber if you want backlights always on when running, or you could splice into the same aux circuit so they are only on when aux is pressed.

I use a variation of this on my lights (the switch and relay are in series) - I can keep my aux on all the time if I want, it's only when I hit my high beams that the lights turn on (they are BD LP4's), which is all I need, I don't need to independently control them.

I believe someone makes a plug-n-play adapter but tapping into the high beam wire is not too bad:

I like the idea, however I will be driving in states and provinces that require all non-DOT lights be covered at all times on public roads, and as much as I'd love the amber lights for daytime, I'd rather not heat up the plastic covers. That is definitely an elegant solution, for sure, however!

I think in the interim I will just put my 10" Baja Designs light bar on the front hoop, but I really do want to mount these before I go adventuring on my own.

 

[anselgator]

Bought these lights and mounted them today dry fit only. My question is do I need three switches or only two? I thought there would be two one for high beam one for low beam but the manual I read said something about three switches assuming on off low beam than high beam just wondering if somebody could confirm what is truly needed. Thank you.

 

[Wizza]

If you want to run the amber lights that is a different power source than just high and low

I would tap those into existing running lights and have them on that way not switched

 

[TrustWonUSA]

This was how I did it. Uses up up a lot of the aux switches though. But if I ever need another I will hook the amber backlights to the DRL’s.

 

[3arl0fBruce]

Looks like you can run one of the 40amp aux wires to the common of the relay (30) and that it's NC to 87a (low beam), so if you press the aux button you get low. I'd then tap into the high beam circuit to power the relay coil (85). You then would use your high beams to control when you want the highs on. You could also wire the ignition to the amber if you want backlights always on when running, or you could splice into the same aux circuit so they are only on when aux is pressed.

I spent a good portion of yesterday with a pencil, paper, and a multi-meter, coming up with the same solution.

I must have read this thread and your post at least 10 times in the last couple of months while trying to decide how best to wire up my lights, but for some reason, it just didn't register.

If you want just a single aux switch and high/low beams to follow your headlights using the lever on the steering column, this is the way to do it. I de-pinned the relay to cut off all the wires going to the 3-way switch that came with the harness, and then shrink-wrapped everything at the relay again to make it look neat and tidy. I turned on the halo wire to my headlights (came with factory halogens) using JScan, and tapped the high beam driver, and the halo driver (for the backlight) lines at the passenger side light harness.

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