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Reinstalling Axle. Is this right?

gonzoflick

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I'm reinstalling my front axle after having it trussed. I also added the @Metalcloak front drop bracket. MC told me to put my lower control arms back to stock for this and their instructions for the gamechanger said stock is 24" eye to eye. These arms are 24" but it seems to move the axle back to where the spring purch and upper bump stops are way apart. Is this ok and when i raise the axle it will align? I want my 4.5" springs to be straigh5

Jeep Wrangler JL Reinstalling Axle.  Is this right? 20251122_082511
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Blues Fan 30

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As you raise it up it the axle should come back forward. If you arent sure you can jack it up without springs and eyeball it then let it back down again.
 

jadmt

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what blues fan said...you could never be flexed that much. stock is 24" eye to eye.. you will be fine once you have it in place..
 

CO2Wrangler

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I'm reinstalling my front axle after having it trussed. I also added the @Metalcloak front drop bracket. MC told me to put my lower control arms back to stock for this and their instructions for the gamechanger said stock is 24" eye to eye. These arms are 24" but it seems to move the axle back to where the spring purch and upper bump stops are way apart. Is this ok and when i raise the axle it will align? I want my 4.5" springs to be straigh5

20251122_082511.webp
Your control arms aren't consistent. One angled up, the other down. Is that intentional?
 

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IceBerg

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Keep in mind too that those measurements are suggestions.

After you get it it put together and under its own weight then adjust for caster/pinion angle
 

roaniecowpony

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How can you even judge any of it without the upper control arms attached?
 

roaniecowpony

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...and shocks.
 

Reinen

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Remember that every part of a Jeep suspension moves in arcs. Nothing moves directly up & down. When the suspension goes up & down there is always a little left/right/forward/back depending on the part.

Right now you are extremely off-the-charts down so don't expect things to line up vertically yet until you raise your suspension into its operating range.
 

SoK66

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FWIW, a rock & race buggy builder once told me the proper way to set your control arm lengths was (with any inhibitors like springs & shocks removed) to raise the axle with two floor jacks until the lower and upper bump stops touched, and to adjust the lower arms fore/aft until they were dead centered. Same for front & rear. From there adjust front caster/pinion angle and rear pinion angle with the upper control arms. This ensures the tires are centered in the wheel wells and that the suspension is cycling in the correct arc.

I got into this because a "famous premium brand's" control arm length specs that came with their kit were off by a mile. The JK was all over the road, parts were hitting each other, spring bow, etc. Using his technique dialed the suspension in perfectly. I got curious and started checking all the other mfr's specs I could find and for the front arms on a 4" kit they varied by more than an inch, with the "famous premium brand" being off the most.
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