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Rear axle Perpendicular to ground!

JLfromCA

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I’m obviouly not making myself clear here. The differential and axle can be shifted with the control arm length.
are you talking about centering the wheel in the wheel well front to back. Or centering the rear differential left to right ?
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are you talking about centering the wheel in the wheel well front to back. Or centering the rear differential left to right ?
Neither. . I’m just talking about pinion angle at the rear. The only way I see to change the rellationhip of the rear differential to the drive shaft is with the control arms.
 

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Neither. . I’m just talking about pinion angle at the rear. The only way I see to change the rellationhip of the rear differential to the drive shaft is with the control arms.
ok we’re talking about pinion angle. The only way to change pinion angle is adjustable, upper or lower control arms.
 

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Since it's a 2 door the rear axle moves forward (more so than with a 4 door because it's a shorter wheelbase to start with) with even a small amount of lift. First thing I would do is lengthen the rear control arms to get the axle centered fore/aft again then adjust the uppers to bring pinion angle back into line.
 

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However, on a 2 inch lift, you really shouldn’t have to change the pinion angle. I have a 2 inch lift on my two door with stock control arms and it works great. I added lower control arms on the front to give myself a little extra caster.
 

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However, on a 2 inch lift, you really shouldn’t have to change the pinion angle. I have a 2 inch lift on my two door with stock control arms and it works great. I added lower control arms on the front to give myself a little extra caster.
Can you tell me your pinion angle, or even just the angle of the flat spots on the rear differential next to the cover is
 

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Can you tell me your pinion angle, or even just the angle of the flat spots on the rear differential next to the cover is
why are you suspecting something isn’t right? The stock control arms keep the pinion angle at a set angle. That’s the whole point of the upper lower control arms on a coil spring suspension. With a 2 inch lift. The pinion angle should be perfect. Run it and enjoy.
 
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why are you suspecting something isn’t right? The stock control arms keep the pinion angle at a set angle. That’s the whole point of the upper lower control arms on a coil spring suspension. With a 2 inch lift. The pinion angle should be perfect. Run it and enjoy.
I replaced my stock with adjustable ones, and am just trying to make sure that my measurements are resulting in the appropriate angles .. I unfortunately did not measure the angles prior to changing them out, and would just like a data point for reference of someone who has done a 2” lift and what their current angles look like. But so farm I haven’t been able to convince anyone to provide that. But anyway, it is what us
 

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I replaced my stock with adjustable ones, and am just trying to make sure that my measurements are resulting in the appropriate angles .. I unfortunately did not measure the angles prior to changing them out, and would just like a data point for reference of someone who has done a 2” lift and what their current angles look like. But so farm I haven’t been able to convince anyone to provide that. But anyway, it is what us
in my opinion, you should set your aftermarket ones to the stock length. Get a measurement, hold to hole from stock arms and make them the same.
 

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However, on a 2 inch lift, you really shouldn’t have to change the pinion angle. I have a 2 inch lift on my two door with stock control arms and it works great. I added lower control arms on the front to give myself a little extra caster.
But then it wouldn’t be parallel to the azimuth???
 

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All joking aside, sounds like it’s time to take it to an alignment shop that knows jeeps and setting pinion angle.
 

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@ScotM to piggyback onto my last post. Did you ever say what control arms you used? I’m assuming pretty much anything should be in the right ballpark with the mopar springs (you said mopar lift so I’m assuming that’s what you’re using) but adjustable arms may or may not be in the right length for your needs. More likely an issue with an unlifted vehicle (arms won’t adjust short enough) but another thing to consider, especially others reading this thread.

with adjustable arms you also could be off on wheel centering, thrust angle, etc. lot of things to be slightly out of alignment with even if you think you perfectly matched your Oem arms.
Oem is probably fine for 2” (why mopar lift only has front lower arms included) but you bought adjustable arms, you might as well utilize them to correct those other things as well as get the right pinion angle.

this thread somehow went on for three pages. First reply should’ve said something like this.
Time for a good alignment.
 

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@ScotM to piggyback onto my last post. Did you ever say what control arms you used? I’m assuming pretty much anything should be in the right ballpark with the mopar springs (you said mopar lift so I’m assuming that’s what you’re using) but adjustable arms may or may not be in the right length for your needs. More likely an issue with an unlifted vehicle (arms won’t adjust short enough) but another thing to consider, especially others reading this thread.

with adjustable arms you also could be off on wheel centering, thrust angle, etc. lot of things to be slightly out of alignment with even if you think you perfectly matched your Oem arms.
Oem is probably fine for 2” (why mopar lift only has front lower arms included) but you bought adjustable arms, you might as well utilize them to correct those other things as well as get the right pinion angle.

this thread somehow went on for three pages. First reply should’ve said something like this.
Time for a good alignment.
People keep derailing this thread with BS that doesn't matter. This should be a simple job but OP bought something that I don't think he fully understood to start with and then to top it off people are either trolling him purposely or filling the thread with stuff that doesn't even matter and OP doesn't have enough knowledge to properly filter out the noise.

Here it is a third time for those in the back...

First center the axle with the lower control arms. Make sure the angle of each wheel is the same side to side. Add some length (about a 1/4 of an inch) because factory arms are too short for a lifted 2 door. People can try to argue this if they want but they are just too lazy or too dumb to get it so not my problem.

Once you have the lower arms set it's time to adjust the upper arms. Start with pinion angle and keeping the 2 arms as close to the same length as possible.

Check your wheel angles again. They will probably be off and that's okay. If your pinion angle is about 2.5ª that's fine and the next step isn't going to change it enough to matter.

Next up what you want to do is adjust the uppers so that your lowers are parallel. Measure your lower arm angles and adjust uppers until everything comes out square. It's okay if things aren't 100% the same. No professional shop is going to "nail it" either. In fact most alignment shops do half ass jobs and you can usually do better with a tape measure, string and some patience.
 
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Appreciate your reply. I was always planning on taking it to my preferred Jeep shop for final alignment. Funny how this went on for so long. All I really wanted to know was what the rear axle angle on a 2 inch lift with factory control arms. I just wanted someone to go put an angle finder on the flat part of the rear differential as seen in below picture and in previous posts. But all the noise became useless, and at least I learned a lesson about advice from forums. I’ll stick to posting what I did to my JL today. But I do appreciate those who offered actual used feedback. Thanks - end of file?
Jeep Wrangler JL Rear axle Perpendicular to ground! IMG_3779
Jeep Wrangler JL Rear axle Perpendicular to ground! IMG_3764
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