Part Number for Crank Case Quick Disconnects?

[SpenceNasty]

Long time lurker, first time poster. So please be easy. …. Not I actually don’t give a crap!

Does anybody have a part number or aftermarket options for the quick disconnects on the crank case ventilation system, a.k.a. the PCV valve? I’ve looked and all I can find are the complete hose assemblies, but I can’t find the quick disconnects. I’m doing an experiment and installing a cheap $22 Amazon oil catch can that appears to be pretty good quality, it’s just missing literally everything.

So I’m fabricating the mounting bracket and obviously fabricating my own hose system. Going to drill and tap the bottom of the can and install a drain cock for easy draining…. Hmmm basically I Don’t want to spend $250 on a Mishimoto! Judge me, I like a good challenge anyways! And… this one comes with a dipstick!

I might cannibalize the existing quick disconnects or just use hose clamps it the prior doesn’t work out.

Yeah yeah, I know catch cans aren’t necessary on our engines, but I’m doing this as an experiment. I think keeping the extra blow oil by out of the engine is probably a good thing. So any input would be great!

Thanks all

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[fczabala]

reach out to Dorman, they have different types of hose connectors for pcv hoses, coolant hoses, etc

 

[SpenceNasty]

reach out to Dorman, they have different types of hose connectors for pcv hoses, coolant hoses, etc

Cool, appreciate the information. Thanks!

 

[mwilk012]

3.6? Unless you're going on 90 degree inclines, it's a total waste. Might as well add straight snake oil to the air filter.

 

[Willys41]

Long time lurker, first time poster. So please be easy. …. Not I actually don’t give a crap!

Does anybody have a part number or aftermarket options for the quick disconnects on the crank case ventilation system, a.k.a. the PCV valve? I’ve looked and all I can find are the complete hose assemblies, but I can’t find the quick disconnects. I’m doing an experiment and installing a cheap $22 Amazon oil catch can that appears to be pretty good quality, it’s just missing literally everything.

So I’m fabricating the mounting bracket and obviously fabricating my own hose system. Going to drill and tap the bottom of the can and install a drain cock for easy draining…. Hmmm basically I Don’t want to spend $250 on a Mishimoto! Judge me, I like a good challenge anyways! And… this one comes with a dipstick!

I might cannibalize the existing quick disconnects or just use hose clamps it the prior doesn’t work out.

Yeah yeah, I know catch cans aren’t necessary on our engines, but I’m doing this as an experiment. I think keeping the extra blow oil by out of the engine is probably a good thing. So any input would be great!

Thanks all

UPR
https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-plug-n-play-pcv-snap-fitting-45-angle-for-oil-catch-can-3-8-1-2-5-8/

 

[mwilk012]

UPR
https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-plug-n-play-pcv-snap-fitting-45-angle-for-oil-catch-can-3-8-1-2-5-8/

Aren’t they the ones that are prone to leaking?

 

[Willys41]

Aren’t they the ones that are prone to leaking?

No.
They had an issue with leaking where the hose slipped over the fitting.
They used an O-ring to seal the hose to the fitting so they would rotate.
They no longer us the O-ring set up and use a clamp instead put the fitting no longer rotates.
This is what they and I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-6-...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

 

[SpenceNasty]

No.
They had an issue with leaking where the hose slipped over the fitting.
They used an O-ring to seal the hose to the fitting so they would rotate.
They no longer us the O-ring set up and use a clamp instead put the fitting no longer rotates.
This is what they and I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-6-23-5mm-Assortment-Automotive-Appliance/dp/B0B2R3WZ9C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=PYBGKHAP9WKO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.l7rIH7fWt-cT8pwgkSbBQlQc6m1ADR768yeE8SIPX7VW6k4is1NGAJNpNiamIvPMhLRGqh9s_Yad7uTX-of3bXJ5yrTivqi1smKkkLw2hTw_nh5Cks8GWYW5u2o6IjiUbwRi68_fMJIAo8nZLLZjMzPvUxt_0hLbIQcgH-8vtw13u4KD_DUh7w-PFgnKy9fOLK6AJMRt-LVn8flDq53uK8z3bRdWgqiAxyCcz1IUHnY.k7vOUCWaR7LFvhgAVDtxYR9KecrdVe7v9jlbap5dLPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=pinch+hose+clamps+stainless+steel&qid=1724250657&sprefix=pinch+hose+clamps+stainless+steel,aps,223&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I’ve read the horror stories with the UPR fittings a while back but I have no idea if they’ve updated anything since then. That’s why I was in search for an OEM part number for the fittings. I’m pretty good at fabrication, that’s why I’m making the custom mount. The only thing I wanted to do was have OEM fittings or screw clamps will work as well. I’m also going to check out the brand that Fczabala pointed out.

The whole point of the install is to do it as cheap as possible, but still have that quality there. Thanks for the reply.

 

[SpenceNasty]

3.6? Unless you're going on 90 degree inclines, it's a total waste. Might as well add straight snake oil to the air filter.

The less oil I can have sucked back into the engine through the air take the better imo. I recently cleaned my throttlebody and was surprised by how much gunk and buildup there was at 45K. I had to physically scrape the carbon off so the butterfly would fully close.

 

[Willys41]

The less oil I can have sucked back into the engine through the air take the better imo. I recently cleaned my throttlebody and was surprised by how much gunk and buildup there was at 45K. I had to physically scrape the carbon off so the butterfly would fully close.

The oil can can help in many ways.
The reason I installed one was the extreme spark knock I was getting at low RPMs.
I was skeptical that it would solve the problem put it did and have not had one ping after the can was installed. Also keeps down carbon build up and oil build up in the intake manifold.
What I did to prevent oil build up in the can was add a 4ft X 1/2in. drain hose on the bottom of the can doubling its capacity. Never have oil in the can its all in the drain hose.

 

[SpenceNasty]

Nice setup dude! I’m going with the same concept of having a drain hose at the bottom with the drain cock. People can talk all the trash they want about the oil can debate, but they work! like I said, I was shocked at how my throttle body looked only after 49K on the engine. I don’t have the tools to do it so I’m gonna have a machine shop drill and tap the bottom of the can but after that, I’m gonna buy a piece of 2.3 mm stainless steel and fabricate the mounting bracket myself.

 

[Willys41]

Nice setup dude! I’m going with the same concept of having a drain hose at the bottom with the drain cock. People can talk all the trash they want about the oil can debate, but they work! like I said, I was shocked at how my throttle body looked only after 49K on the engine. I don’t have the tools to do it so I’m gonna have a machine shop drill and tap the bottom of the can but after that, I’m gonna buy a piece of 2.3 mm stainless steel and fabricate the mounting bracket myself.

I know what you are saying. I can only say to others that it works and it works so well I put one on both my Wranglers and my 2020 F250. 6.2 gas motor.

 

[azjl#3]

3.6? Unless you're going on 90 degree inclines, it's a total waste. Might as well add straight snake oil to the air filter.

piling on, I remember reading a mopar engineer stating we don't rev the 3.6 up enough, as designed, which helps oil the top end. So oil in crankcase/valve covers sloshing around, probably not a bad thing.

 

[mwilk012]

piling on, I remember reading a mopar engineer stating we don't rev the 3.6 up enough, as designed, which helps oil the top end. So oil in crankcase/valve covers sloshing around, probably not a bad thing.

Sure but that doesn’t have anything to do with the microscopic amount of oil in the intake manifold. The 3.6 consumes the least amount of oil of any engine on the road.

 

[Stuckinthesand]

Sure but that doesn’t have anything to do with the microscopic amount of oil in the intake manifold. The 3.6 consumes the least amount of oil of any engine on the road.

I would have to concur with this. I actually had to disconnect the PCV from the air box intake assembly and remove the air intake assembly yesterday so I could replace a leaking clamp on my upper radiator hose. There was very little oil in the PCV or on the throttle body. I am at just about 80k miles and it reinforced my decision to never put one on.

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