Oil filter R & R

[longfiredragon]

On the 6 maybe it is. On the turbo 2.0L no,no, and no. There will be no mess no dripping on wires, nothing. There is nothing below, above, beside, nothing in the way. Slide the pan under unscrew the filter and drop straight into the pan. No paper towel method, no bags, nothing. Zero mess, no drips nothing. The screw on type filter sits right on the bottom of the block. The only drip will be from the bottom of the pan into the catch pan. I relate though because doing the oil and filter on my Ram sucks, makes a big mess.

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[gerlbaum]

I’d manage to drop the filter after I pulled it.

 

[rickinAZ]

Just finished changing my oil using a large Ziploc to catch the filter from below. Not a drop spilled.

 

[gerlbaum]

I must be on the wrong website, someone posted something that didn’t disparage the diesel Jeep or diesels in general.

 

[the_jeepeo]

Thanks for keeping this thread going. I did the oil change (@4800mi) the following weekend after starting the thread and there were some specifics I thought appropriate to share for those wary of the Jeep Wave (nothing more expensive than free) program and habitual DIYers.

1. Thanks for the clear statement that one does NOT have to move anything out of the way to remove the oil filter canister. However, that hose (vacuum? for what?) runs right above the middle of the canister so you do have to work around it significantly during the process. I experimented with running my socket and extension above and below the hose and settled with above as there was a tad more slack on the hose from that position.

2. The canister required a lot of torque to back out. I had already drained the pan and had the oil cap off but there was still a lot of pressure wanting to suck that canister back on to the housing.
The plan was to back the canister off just past the large o-ring, relieving pressure and letting gravity work any excess oil down and out of the canister before lifting it up and out of the engine bay.
Problem was I couldn't see the o-ring and I didn't want to back it out too far and spill. So I went and got a rag and used a long screw driver to carefully pack it underneath the canister in case I went too far. As soon as the canister got a lot easier to back out of the housing I was betting the oil in the canister was on its way down. I kept backing it out but stopped short, quit while I was ahead and let it sit for an hour.
After I came back it was the point of no return, that canister was coming off dripping or not. After a few more turns the large o-ring came completely free of the housing, at the same time there was a subtle queef signaling the last bit of pressure had been released and not one drop of oil was spilled as I snaked and wiggled the canister above the hose and out of the engine bay. There was a tiny bit of oil sitting on the inside of the outer lip of the housing that one could, if so inclined, suction or wipe out but I ended up leaving it there.

3. Replacing the canister was much faster. The requisite lubing of the new seals and torquing down to 25nm went without a hitch.

4. This part doesn't have anything directly to do with the oil filter R&R but it was the part of the oil change process that took me by surprise and shouldn't have but since it happened to me it may happen to some other regular guy out there.
I was able to procure unicorn blood for refill. 1 x 5 Liter (1.3 Gallon) and 4 x 1 quart bottles of Mopar 5w40 full synth.
I started pouring that stuff in before calculating how many ounces 1/3 of a gallon comes out to. It was only after I had poured every last drop of unicorn blood in to the engine did I stop and question how much 1.3 gallons + 4 quarts actually comes out to.
Maybe it was the 5 liters printed first on the label reading left to right that had my brain thinking it was 5 quarts. Maybe I was so pleased with myself for not spilling any oil on a new engine that I thought I could cruise through the finish line. Either way, once I did the math after the fact, I realized I had over filled the engine by 6.5 ounces. I also knew I had seen a lot of 3.0 owners on this site sour about oil seepage. I also know how damaging overfilling an engine with oil can be and further more my most rudimentary understanding of how diesel engines work is through compression which combined with too much fluid in the system could lead to some very undesirable effects.
So I grabbed my ratio rite measuring cup that I use to premix my 76 Motobecane 50V 2 stroke oil and gas, got back under the Jeep, loosened the drain plug very slowly and very carefully drained 6.5 ounces of unicorn blood out of the pan.

5. From the factory the oil level came up about 1/3rd of way on the dipstick. After this change, the oil level is about 2/3rd the way up on the dipstick and I wouldn't want it any higher.

After putting another 1000 miles on and periodically checking for leaks, I'm very satisfied with the outcome

 

[the_jeepeo]

Update: I’ve determined this is the straightest line to the oil filter hex head purchase.

 

[Wrangler man]

Update: I’ve determined this is the straightest line to the oil filter hex head purchase.

Great picure.Would love to see a pictue your oil level on the dipstick as you described in your previous post.

 

[flyer92]

As much as I am a proponent of doing it yourself - don't the vehicles come with the first three mintenances??? (https://www.jeep.com/jeep-wave.html) Why not make them spend the money while you can?

...because of the dealership's poor customer service and ineptitude, which is unfortunate. 50/50 chance they'll overtorque and crack the oil filter housing, overtorque or cross-thread the drain plug, overfill the engine, or simply forget to put oil in altogether. I sincerely hope these things never happen to you, but they are unfortunately quite common at CDJR dealerships. Beware and best of luck.

 

[the_jeepeo]

Great picure.Would love to see a pictue your oil level on the dipstick as you described in your previous post.

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