Correct, but the important part is it also does NOT state to do an early oil change. If you really want to do an early oil change don't put synthetic in but a conventional dead dinosaur oil so the rings can break in. They will not with synthetic oil.
Man I really don't think it's good advice to put "dead dinosaur oil" in one of these. The direct injection requires oils that are resistant to carbon build up on the valves and pre-ignition. Thus the higher standard requirements for the oil with the 2.0. Due to this requirement (I'm just guessing here) I doubt there is any thing special for break-in in the factory oil.
This fallacy has been debunked for years. These are not your father's engines from the 60's and 70's. Perform your first oil change when recommended by your owner's manual and only use full synthetic oil. End of story.
Piston rings will not break in using synthetic oil, particularly low friction ones. This is far worse than the small amount of deposits in a DI engine in ~5000 miles running a normal oil. Filling with synthetic oil early is the worst possible advice one can make. You have guaranteed an engine that will consume oil and be down on power.Man I really don't think it's good advice to put "dead dinosaur oil" in one of these. The direct injection requires oils that are resistant to carbon build up on the valves and pre-ignition. Thus the higher standard requirements for the oil with the 2.0. Due to this requirement (I'm just guessing here) I doubt there is any thing special for break-in in the factory oil.
Correct, fully agree with you! I'm not advocating an early oil change. I am saying if you absolutely insist on doing an early oil change do not put in synthetic oil.
Do you really know the above statement to be a fact? Most of the discussions on this forum that I've seen believe the factory fill is Pennzoil Platinum 5-30.
How long did the whole process take? Along with the actual motor swap?
Yes, but with a break in additive. This has been confirmed on here by a couple people who work at the factory.
Very incorrect information, and with low-friction rings you do not get a second chance and will end up with an engine that consumes oil and is down on power.
I don't, but it was virtually identical to this noise that @Silver_thunder posted.
Just had to pipe in on this one, dig up a old thread. I too went to dealer and was told the tattle on startup as normal, and to be on the record I would never let those fly boys change my oil. They lube the gasket and just screw on the EMPTY filter, I fill them. They claimed to have went out in the lot and started several of these engines and since they all made the same noise punched it's ticket as being normal. Now where going to talk oil filters and drain back. Remember they want SN Plus rated oil and for good reason, the extreme conditions it's subjected to in these engines especially pushing max boost of 28 lbs we got some real hot conditions and the stock filter has a basic rubber drain back valve in it. Coming straight from the dealer I unscrewed the filter and the oil just pored out like it was in a drinking glass, the valve didn't work. We all know silicone rubber stands up against heat way better then plain old rubber so I drained everything and bought the STP extended life S10060XL with the silicone anti drain back valve and Havoline Pro DS rated SN PLUS and the startup noise is almost none existent. The rubber valve in the stock filter isn't up to the task. I've been a auto tech my entire life and bought the shop I worked at for 37 years and the noise sounded like what you would hear during a oil change on the first startup. I have tried all oils in my gas powered toys and cars and the Pro DS by Chevron is what they all like running smoother and quiet.
