Mopar Flat Tow Harness arrived

[Broccoli2]

I am having the exact same issue. I did not see an answer to this question and could really use the help. I can't figure out how to get the white plastic "lock" piece out so I can insert the 6 pins. Any suggestions? Thank you

No need to remove it when installing the wires. Just push them into the holes until they click. If you want to take the wires out after the installation, then you need to remove it.

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[WhiteElk]

No need to remove it when installing the wires. Just push them into the holes until they click. If you want to take the wires out after the installation, then you need to remove it.

. I was unable to insert the wires/pins and Mopar was unable to help solve the issue. I decided to cut off the plug and use Pollak connectors. I have a Rock Hard 4x4 bumper and installed the Pollak socket into the front of the bumper. I installed the mating (male) Pollak Fitting onto the other end of the umbilical. It turned out well.

 

[HadesBane]

Working on replacing the Mopar connector. Did you find a wiring diagram for the Mopar connector beyond the installation instructions. I hate to assume they used standard wire colors.

 

[HadesBane]

Mopar Harness
1) That’s for you to decide. I thought it was well built.
2) I cut off the OEM connector and wired the harness to a 6 pin connector that came with my Blue Ox cable. That connector was then installed into the Rockhard 4x4 bumper. You can easily connect your own wiring here and extend it anywhere you want.
3) You are correct.

I will add that this harness is a lot more work to install as opposed to the JK version.

Installing my RockHard bumper tomorrow & I plan on replacing the Mopar wiring connector as well. Did you find a wiring diagram showing which wire goes where on the Pollac 6 wire connector. I dont want to assume they used standard wire colors.

 

[WhiteElk]

Installing my RockHard bumper tomorrow & I plan on replacing the Mopar wiring connector as well. Did you find a wiring diagram showing which wire goes where on the Pollac 6 wire connector. I dont want to assume they used standard wire colors.

Good and important catch. Mopar used the Seven Way RV standard. So, you need to wire your plug in accord with your RV’s tow wiring convention. In the case of my Lazy Daze Class C, the factory used a six way. I requested a tow wiring diagram from the Lazy Daze factory to be sure that I wired the bumper plug in accord with my Motorhome.

Hope this helps.

 

[zcaptain]

When I hooked up my jeep to the RV, the supplied Mopar cable wasn't long enough, I took some time to map out the wiring so I could change the connector. Not guaranteeing this, but it's what I used and it works. Look in the middle of the pdf for the wiring on the mopar connectors. I ended up using the supplied Mopar cable and their connectors, but changed the other end and wired it to a BlueOx connector on the bumper.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Well, I finally got up the enthusiasm to install the Mopar Part #82215382AB 001 harness. I received it about a month or more ago and just didn't have the time, had beer or wine that needed drinking, dog needed a bath, it was too hot, it was too dark. You get the picture. I'm taking a break at about step 45 (of 70). It's closer to being finished than might be indicated by the numbers of steps. I have to button up the last tail light and route the longest wire bundle from the back interior, along the inside rocker panel and up thru the firewall. Then pop all the plastic interior back in and the fender. Last, I have to figure out what connection I want at the bumper. I'll probably install and fixed receptacle like others have.

I have a couple things I'd like to share that might help the next guy installing one of these.

• first, don't drill the front right fender flare rivets that hold the liner if you're reusing your fender flares. The instructions guide you to drill them, but you can find a few YouTubes showing how to remove the flare with the liner. Take out all the 10mm and 8mm bolts/screws and the push pin retainers. You're gonna break some plastic retainers. Either pre-order them or be prepared to go to the dealer.
• Before you go tugging on the flare to remove it from the body, pull the outer edge of the liner out from behind the flare lip and you'll be able to lower it enough to get your hand up in there and disconnect the DRL/turn indicator.
• Pull the fender outward with a sharp tug starting at the front. Keep going. There are about 10 push clips. You may break some. Same recommendation as above. Get some.
• When you get to installing the harness "C" that runs from the driver side rear tail light to the passenger rear tail light, the wire bundle is shown being attach at the front of the rear cross member in the instructions. This places the harness pretty close to the muffler. I flipped the supplied tie wraps with push pins to face to the rear. This puts the harness about 2-3" further back away from the muffler.
• Also, when installing the "C" harness, the license plate light wires T off of this harness. The instructions indicate you should remove the bumper. I didn't have to. From under the bumper, I used a screw driver to press the lock tab on the license plate light connector and another to pry it off gently. The vehicles original harness connector for the plate light plugs to the "C" harness and the "C" harness has another connector that plugs to the light. I used a very large set of forceps to help. Some long needle nose pliers would work too. A head mounted "miners light" would help too.
• The grommet you need to feed the "B" harness thru from the passenger rear tail light, up into the interior was a bear. I had to pull it from the body and slide it down the original harness. But it's glued with some sticky gooey stuff. Pull it loose. Then I stuck a small screwdriver up along the original harness and started feeding each of the four (4) wires from the "B" harness thru the grommet individually. I put some electrical tape over the pinned ends to protect the grommet. Some silicone lube will help. When you get to a T where there's another wire for a ground, it has a terminal that is pretty big to fit thru the grommet. It wasn't that hard. You will have to pull the grommet back over the top of the terminal and take care to not tear the grommet.

That's all I have. Maybe more later.

 

[roaniecowpony]

For the wires that have to feed thru the firewall, I used a wire coat hanger to poke thru the big grommet and pull the wires. There was a 1/4" molded depression in the grommet that I used for my feed thru. I taped the wires to the coat hanger and lubed it with silicone. Two people helps with this.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I just got my MOPAR harness and the only thing I am confused about is the placement of the four fuses in the fuse holder of harness. The picture shows 3 fuse on the left side and one on the bottom of the right side. The four wires tha go to the fuse block are installed with three on the left side all protected by a fuse but the instruction shows the one wire on the right side in the top slot but the fuse is shown in the right bottom slot. Looks like that fuse should be installed on the top right of the fuse block. Are the instruction wrong about the placement of the fuse on the right side.

I ran into this question last night when finishing up the wiring. The simple answer is: match the colors of the solid colored wires with the white striped wires, so that the fuse bridges the two together.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I finally got the parts to install the socket in the bumper. The bumper is aluminum, but it still was a chore to cut a 2" hole in it. I'm satisfied with the way it came out. I debated putting the socket in another location, like outboard of the fog light or below it. I took the tow vehicle to toad cable supplied with the Mopar kit and cut the end off that had the Mopar proprietary connector and hooked it behind the socket I bought. That allows me to unplug it if I remove the bumper.

While I was doing this I took the time to install some Baja Designs Squadron Pro combination beam lights with 4500 lumens each. Lots of light.

 

[Hwy 395]

I just tried to install the Cooltech JL Tow Harness. Total Failure. I understood all the directions - very well. I hooked it up as instructed, step by step. I read and understood the main instruction pamphlet and the supplement. I watched the one and only video out on the kit install on Youtube - numerous times. I know how to wire. The kit did not work. I've got a 2019 JLU Sport. Now I've got cut up wires I need to fix. I'll remove the kit tomorrow. Then send the kit back to them. Then maybe argue about a refund if one is not forthcoming.

Some facts: They don't answer their email - which is the only way to contact them. They have no phone number to call no matter how much you search their site. When you go searching the street address on Google Earth, it's just a regular house on a residential street in the hills of Los Angeles. You take a big risk if you choose this flat tow lighting kit. I recommend staying away.

 

[zcaptain]

I had the dealer install mine. They said it took several hours to install. When I got home to test it, it didn’t work. Took it back and they finally got it working. They said they found it was a poor ground. Check your grounds before you uninstall

 

[Hwy 395]

Hi Kendall [from CoolTech],
I appreciate the phone call this morning. I get your small and cannot man the phones all the time. I tried everything in my power to try yesterday both with the install and on line to reach you. I'm not sure what happened with your in house email - messaging.... it said it went through each time I sent something. Maybe a phone number to leave a voice message so you can return a call later? Anyway, I do appreciate the call this morning to try to help me out and make things right. It just arrived too late, but much appreciated. Next time. Adam

 

[roaniecowpony]

Just to follow up, I followed the Mopar "Ikea" like instructions step by step and added my 7 conductor blade socket, buttoned it up and hooked it to the tow vehicle. It worked first time. I've hooked the Jeep to my truck a few times now and its worked as advertied, including the license plate light. I'd call this a "moderate" difficulty level for someone to install. Not because any one thing is difficult or very technical, but because it is a lot of little tasks that take time. If it's a couple hundred for a dealer to install, it's worth it if you have the dough.

 

[Hwy 395]

Just installed the Mopar harness. All working well. Expensive though.

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