Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

[SadRobot]

Which seems to be happening anyway…. Just sayin’

Well I've yet to hear of any issues with the CFII hydraulic bearing system. Most issues that come up are the other version that do not replace the fork/bearing.

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[bjm00se]

What I mean is that not using the hydraulic throw out doesn’t seem to be saving folks from dropping the transmission again

The learning I’m taking from all this is just to leave my original factory clutch in place as long as possible until it wears out in traditional fashion

 

[CorvZ061]

From what I'm reading, when I need a new clutch to go ahead and do the CF2. Got it. Hopefully that would be enough to solve these issues.

 

[gek]

From what I'm reading, when I need a new clutch to go ahead and do the CF2. Got it. Hopefully that would be enough to solve these issues.

Standard CF2 still has issues, CF2 with internal hydraulics appears to be a worthwhile solution as far as we know so far. I think Mcleod had a hydraulic bearing also, but I don't know of anyone that has installed one.

 

[beachbumm78]

I was having issues of either not being able to get into gear (1st and reverse) where it felt like I was hitting a wall or 1st or reverse would stick and I had to give a strong pull to get it out of gear as the clutch pedal seemed to do nothing. I took it to a shop and they determined that the previous shop had used Red N' Tacky and it was causing sticking and the shift fork wasn't engaging properly. The shop talked to Centerforce and I purchased the hydraulic throw out bearing. The difference is amazing and it is a joy to drive. The clutch pedal engagement is smooth, linear, and consistent in the take up point. I wish they had the hydraulic throw out bearing when I bought the kit back in early 2023.

This is good to know as I have the Centerforce II clutch and recently started having these exact issues.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

I think Mcleod had a hydraulic bearing also, but I don't know of anyone that has installed one.

Check out: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...periences-south-bend-dual-disc-review.142418/

At this time McLeod announced their new solution with internal throwout bearing. I was an early adopter, and after install I had issues going smoothly into gear, and also the pedal would not come back to the top. It was obviously a hydraulic issue, with air in the line. I spent literally 2 weeks of bleeding it everyday, Motive Power Bleeder, vacuum at the slave, vacuum at the reservoir, 2-person pedal technique. Then one morning I came out and the pedal just fell to the floor, and there was brake fluid pouring out the bell housing. There was a failure of the internal throwout bearing. I contacted McLeod and they said they had found an issue with the design and to their credit quickly sent me a warranty replacement. Turns out the whole time I was bleeding, I would get the air out, but then in use, it was sucking air back in the lines. I lost faith in the internal style throwout bearing so I decided not to try again.

 

[_olllllllo_]

This is good to know as I have the Centerforce II clutch and recently started having these exact issues.

I had these issues fairly soon after installation, but they just got worse. I think the Red N Tacky machine mixing with clutch particulate just kept exacerbating the issue.

 

[gek]

Check out: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...periences-south-bend-dual-disc-review.142418/

Well that is a bit disheartening.

 

[beachbumm78]

I had these issues fairly soon after installation, but they just got worse. I think the Red N Tacky machine mixing with clutch particulate just kept exacerbating the issue.

That’s frustrating! I’ve had my clutch in for almost two years. The jeep sat for 6 months so it’s really been used for 1.5 years and I’d say it just started on the past 3-4 months.

 

[_olllllllo_]

Mine was installed March 2023 and I drove it to Texas a week later. I had 35,000 miles on it before getting the issues resolved with the new hydraulic throw out bearing. I did a bunch of research on them and they have been in use for decades. The pedal feel and engagement and so night and day different that I would always recommend that solution over the shift fork and ORM throw out bearing.

 

[beachbumm78]

Mine was installed March 2023 and I drove it to Texas a week later. I had 35,000 miles on it before getting the issues resolved with the new hydraulic throw out bearing. I did a bunch of research on them and they have been in use for decades. The pedal feel and engagement and so night and day different that I would always recommend that solution over the shift fork and ORM throw out bearing.

Good to know! Once my engine issues are dealt with then I’ll be looking into the clutch thing.

 

[SadRobot]

Hopefully my last update on this issue. Jeep is back to shifting smooth thanks to the great people over at ACT.

Here's the full story but the lesson is everyone check their hydraulics for air. It seems even 2 bubbles worth is enough to throw the Jeep completely out of whack.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ing-sound-from-engine-bay.149616/post-3157506

 

[_olllllllo_]

Hopefully my last update on this issue. Jeep is back to shifting smooth thanks to the great people over at ACT.

Here's the full story but the lesson is everyone check their hydraulics for air. It seems even 2 bubbles worth is enough to throw the Jeep completely out of whack.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ing-sound-from-engine-bay.149616/post-3157506

Great to hear it is performing well. When the shop installed the Centerforce hydraulic throw out bearing he followed the bleeding instructions (bleed through master reservoir with rubber disk) and still said he cracked the connection at the slave cylinder to get some trapped air out. That help removing pedal sponginess.

 

[SadRobot]

Great to hear it is performing well. When the shop installed the Centerforce hydraulic throw out bearing he followed the bleeding instructions (bleed through master reservoir with rubber disk) and still said he cracked the connection at the slave cylinder to get some trapped air out. That help removing pedal sponginess.

Yeah and my system has not been open since the last time I bled it a few months ago and the slave stayed bolted in when I swapped out the engine. Yet still air got in because when I bled it months ago I had gotten all the air out.

So I encourage everyone to take a look again and their hydraulics just to make sure that isn't the cause of your troubles. Just because it was bled 10k miles ago doesn't mean air hasn't gotten in since it seems.

 

[_olllllllo_]

Yeah and my system has not been open since the last time I bled it a few months ago and the slave stayed bolted in when I swapped out the engine. Yet still air got in because when I bled it months ago I had gotten all the air out.

So I encourage everyone to take a look again and their hydraulics just to make sure that isn't the cause of your troubles. Just because it was bled 10k miles ago doesn't mean air hasn't gotten in since it seems.

Great point. I think I will add vacuum bleeding to my list of normal maintenance items.

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