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Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

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SadRobot

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I did find out what the "hose" was. He was talking about the feed hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder. He said the one I have on there is aftermarket. It's not though. The master cylinder came from a dealership.

The original had a plastic accordion tube and the new one has this:

Jeep Wrangler JL Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread) 4d8f6721cd87de4e2a4d3e6be61d62eb copy


There's no reason that should make a difference for anything.
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ski-line900

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I did find out what the "hose" was. He was talking about the feed hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder. He said the one I have on there is aftermarket. It's not though. The master cylinder came from a dealership.

The original had a plastic accordion tube and the new one has this:

4d8f6721cd87de4e2a4d3e6be61d62eb copy.jpg


There's no reason that should make a difference for anything.
Same, I think it's an updated part.
 
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SadRobot

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Same, I think it's an updated part.
Yeah. So that fact that he was telling me it's aftermarket isn't great. It's 100% just an updated part. He wants to put the original hose back on and re-bleed the system again. So I said fine he can try then and then I'm coming to get it.
 

Steve104

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Ok new update. I finally got the tech on the phone. He said he replaced the slave and bled it but can't get a pedal back at all.

He said if he puts pressure onto the system with an air compressor the pedal comes back but as soon as the pressure is gone it disappears and pedal goes to the floor.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? That has never happened in all the times I bled it. I always got a full pedal back but just had 1st/reverse issues.

He called Jeep Star or whatever they call when they get stuck and they told him just to do the recall and bring everything back to stock. I told him absolutely not and if he can't get a pedal back by end of today I'm towing it back to my house.

So mess continues....
Sounds like the slave is not positioned correctly with respect to the release fork.
 

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BHank0688

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I know when bleeding mine I had to push, and then pull the pedal back a few tomes times to get it to come back on its own. I believe it’s somewhere in a service bulletin I read. It said to do that 50 times after bleeding it. Maybe he didn’t do that?
 

fspalt

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One other thing to try when bleeding is do it with the slave is out of the transmission. That way the bleeder can be vertical to allow the air out. You would have to make sure that piston is restricted though so as not to allow it to blow out when pressing the pedal. I'm pretty sure this is how my shop did it originally.
 

notthenewguy

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bringing it back to stock might not be such a bad idea after all this time,
there's been reports of people solving the issues of limp mode due to different tire sizes

just spit balling here but at least if they do the recall, I would just confirm with them that they WOULD get the jeep back up and running and not pull a "sorry issue still persists after the recall but it's your problem because that's how you brought it in"

I personally would consider this but only if they tell me they would take "ownership" of the issue if I let them do the recall, worst case scenario, I would buy some take off wheels (<1k) and drive the jeep home and deal with the clutch and programming of bigger tires at home

idk, what do you think?
this was my issue. I had two dealers tell me that they would perform the recall but if my car still doesn’t shift well OR has any issues with the software it is my fault for putting bigger tires on the jeep. Even though the jeep drove in, they claim they would still pin the blame on the bigger tires. Otherwise, I would gladly perform the recall and get this jeep shifting well.
 

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JeepinPete

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The clutch pedal assist spring is an "over center" design. My guess is when the tech pressurized the system, it wasn't enough to put it over the hump so to speak and the pedal returned to the floor.

Pete
 

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So there is a bit of a pedal but not enough to drive it. I’m in the process of towing it home and will start all over again with troubleshooting tomorrow.
It's better off in your hands than the stealership.

Also, lmk if you need any OEM part references/function test from my OEM assemblies.
 
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SadRobot

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It's better off in your hands than the stealership.

Also, lmk if you need any OEM part references/function test from my OEM assemblies.
I have a feeling they damaged the master cylinder seal and it may be leaking internally. I may try to put my original one back in and if that doesn't do it I'll be on the search again to buy a new one.

I was going to try dry vacuum overnight tonight just in case but I don't have anything to use as a stopper at home.
 

Duece McCracken

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I have a feeling they damaged the master cylinder seal and it may be leaking internally. I may try to put my original one back in and if that doesn't do it I'll be on the search again to buy a new one.

I was going to try dry vacuum overnight tonight just in case but I don't have anything to use as a stopper at home.
You may be able to take a cap with gasket, thats larger than the brake resi cap, and drill a hole in it to run the mighty vac off of. Its an odd size, and you may crack the cap drilling it, lol.

Maybe a canning jar lid insert would seal, lmao
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