Just looks like they adapted the tip of the slave to interface with the JL/JT clutch fork pocket. Threw in a Stainless line, and then the JK master to run it.
Will be interested to hear. I'm leaning towards getting the ACT out of there and putting in the CFII. I just have to figure out when to do that. Do I wait for the dealer to finish with it? Do I tow it back to my house and then tow it somewhere else to get the clutch installed?
ACT have commented many times that the CF hydraulics will not work with their clutch.
I remember ACT saying something like Centerforce slapping JK hydraulics in was a lazy move. Was pretty sure the internal CF hydraulic release bearing is a no-go.
Did you get the external hydraulics? From what I'm reading I don't think that's going to make much of a difference.
Did you get the external hydraulics? From what I'm reading I don't think that's going to make much of a difference.
Ie: See this post on the topic of hydraulics:
I think we've all come to the same conclusion that the stock hydraulics may not work with the ACT clutch long term. In that sense, sure the ACT clutch may have nothing wrong with it. I, like you, ran it for 10k miles and it worked great. Way better off road than stock. Pedal feel was much better. Then it became too much for the stock hydraulics to handle and now I'm left with a vehicle that won't shift into 1st and reverse.
I was joking with @Gator Overland last night that I could draw a picture of a clutch and tape it inside the bell housing and I also wouldn't have a vehicle that shifted into 1st and reverse. I'm being hyperbolic, of course, but the all I'm saying is whether the clutch works fine on it's own is irrelevant. All the matters is does it work with the vehicle you are driving.
Of everyone that is having issues it's a mix of shop installs, manufacturer installs, installs done at home. The only common denominator found so far is that we all have the same clutch.
Looks like about the same price as the CFII with internal hydraulics.
I hope you get some good info for us.
Exists yet!!! If we are experiencing hydraulic issues, the twin disk would have reduced effort, may hold up better to the hydraulics.
If replacing the hydraulics didn't bring things back to the way they were 10k miles ago, then maybe it is the ACT clutch itself.Did you get the external hydraulics? From what I'm reading I don't think that's going to make much of a difference.
Ie: See this post on the topic of hydraulics:
I think we've all come to the same conclusion that the stock hydraulics may not work with the ACT clutch long term. In that sense, sure the ACT clutch may have nothing wrong with it. I, like you, ran it for 10k miles and it worked great. Way better off road than stock. Pedal feel was much better. Then it became too much for the stock hydraulics to handle and now I'm left with a vehicle that won't shift into 1st and reverse.
I was joking with @Gator Overland last night that I could draw a picture of a clutch and tape it inside the bell housing and I also wouldn't have a vehicle that shifted into 1st and reverse. I'm being hyperbolic, of course, but the all I'm saying is whether the clutch works fine on it's own is irrelevant. All the matters is does it work with the vehicle you are driving.
Of everyone that is having issues it's a mix of shop installs, manufacturer installs, installs done at home. The only common denominator found so far is that we all have the same clutch.
I’ve been using the same mechanic for over a decade. His shop is first and foremost a transmission shop. He blew two slave cylinders getting my ACT installed (turned out my clutch fork was out of spec and replacing it solved the issue).
