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Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

gek

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So basically what I'm seeing here is that, the stock JL Clutch and Flywheel are crap and prone to exploding and feel weak, but if you upgrade to a Centerforce or ACT heavy 'normal' flywheel, the slave cylinder needs to be upgraded to some sort of heavy-duty one?

And you have to roll it in a ditch to get the correct bleeding angle on it?

Jeep. Why couldn't you make a normal manual for the JL.
Apparently the stock one can also develop the hydraulic issues. It's like the entire system was built to be just good enough, but then wasn't.
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WJ43

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I'm not sure, given we also have reports of the same issue with the stock clutch after recall replacement. It seems to be more like "don't touch the clutch unless you absolutely have to."

That said, I'm curious if anyone ordered the ACT "street-mass" flywheel (the one that is a normal JK flywheel weight, which is still significantly more than the JL's light flywheel) rather than the heavier "pro-mass" and is having a similar issue.
I have the JP6-HDSS which is the lighter flywheel version, I was actually wondering if the heavier promass would have been a better choice.
 

Fatfreewilly

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When the stock one dies on mine I was going to go with the Street Mass one. My JK clutch went over 155k miles with no issues before selling it.

I thought ACT was the golden ticket to fixing the clutch, but this thread has murdered that dream haha.

So far though, 24k miles in on a 24MT that came factory with the 'fix' - no Issues.

It's still such a light clutch though- the JK could engage at idle with no gas and not stall, making it engage at like 800rpm vs. the JL requires gas and it at like 1200rpm to not stall. Sounds like not a lot, but I see that as 50% more wear from stops. All for some stupid Stop/Start system I turn off anyway.
 

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I have the JP6-HDSS which is the lighter flywheel version, I was actually wondering if the heavier promass would have been a better choice.
Well you seem to have made the right choice 🤣
 

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I have the JP6-HDSS which is the lighter flywheel version, I was actually wondering if the heavier promass would have been a better choice.
THe JP6-HDSS is the heavier Pro-Mass version. Did you mean the JP5-HDSS?
 

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gek

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When the stock one dies on mine I was going to go with the Street Mass one. My JK clutch went over 155k miles with no issues before selling it.

I thought ACT was the golden ticket to fixing the clutch, but this thread has murdered that dream haha.

So far though, 24k miles in on a 24MT that came factory with the 'fix' - no Issues.

It's still such a light clutch though- the JK could engage at idle with no gas and not stall, making it engage at like 800rpm vs. the JL requires gas and it at like 1200rpm to not stall. Sounds like not a lot, but I see that as 50% more wear from stops. All for some stupid Stop/Start system I turn off anyway.
I am at 12k miles on my ACT pro mass. I feel partially at fault for @SadRobot's issue for helping to convince her to go that route, but as of now I have not experienced the issues that she or anyone else has. I have been attempting to figure what, if anything, I did differently when installing mine, but I have yet to see a difference especially since one of the people who had it installed for an instructional video, that I used, is having issues. About the only thing I did different as far as I can tell is I didn't remove the transfer case and instead of removing the shifter bracket I popped off the cables.
 
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SadRobot

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I am at 12k miles on my ACT pro mass. I feel partially at fault for @SadRobot's issue for helping to convince her to go that route, but as of now I have not experienced the issues that she or anyone else has. I have been attempting to figure what, if anything, I did differently when installing mine, but I have yet to see a difference especially since one of the people who had it installed for an instructional video, that I used, is having issues. About the only thing I did different as far as I can tell is I didn't remove the transfer case and instead of removing the shifter bracket I popped off the cables.
Eh well I brought @Jeremynolan94 into it as well with my great review so we're all in this together. 🤣

I'm sure you aren't the only one out there who has had zero issues with the ACT. There are people chiming in on the Facebook page that they haven't had problems. Maybe it's use dependent. I live in a place where I can sit for 2 hours in stop and go traffic to go 10 miles. I imagine my clutch gets more use than someone who lives in a less congested area. The day my symptoms started I was stuck in 4 hour stop and go traffic on the way to Phoenix. I'm just speculating here though.

For whatever it is worth I know for a fact the shop that installed mine did not remove the transfer case either. 🤷‍♀️
 
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Duece McCracken

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I am at 12k miles on my ACT pro mass. I feel partially at fault for @SadRobot's issue for helping to convince her to go that route, but as of now I have not experienced the issues that she or anyone else has. I have been attempting to figure what, if anything, I did differently when installing mine, but I have yet to see a difference especially since one of the people who had it installed for an instructional video, that I used, is having issues. About the only thing I did different as far as I can tell is I didn't remove the transfer case and instead of removing the shifter bracket I popped off the cables.
I also did not separate the transfer case, or mess with the cable bracket. Just shifted the trans back.

This whole situation is poo poo.

I'll dig into my build thread and make an official post in here.
 

gek

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I also did not separate the transfer case, or mess with the cable bracket. Just shifted the trans back.

This whole situation is poo poo.

I'll dig into my build thread and make an official post in here.
I thought I documented mine better but it is mostly a few blurry pics and a pic of the stock clutch at 16k miles.
 

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SadRobot

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I thought I documented mine better but it is mostly a few blurry pics and a pic of the stock clutch at 16k miles.
This is why I never attempt to take pictures when I work on my Jeep. They always just turn out like my mom took them on her iPhone 7.
 
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gek

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It turns out I did take a pic of the cables and apparently I did take the t-case bracket off, but not the main shifter bracket. Then hung them towards the rear of the Jeep. The pic that should show what I did with the slave is the blurriest one. Looks like it might just be hanging there?

Jeep Wrangler JL Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread) 1735328897379-1u


Jeep Wrangler JL Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread) 1735329121385-qn
 

WJ43

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THe JP6-HDSS is the heavier Pro-Mass version. Did you mean the JP5-HDSS?
I was referring to the JP6-HDSS vs the JP6-HDG6 which is the Race sprung version. I chose the JP6-HDSS after an exchange with @Actman. The clutch is much better than the oem up and until the resistance to shifting kicks in. Interestingly when it gets hard to shift, the clutch housing is still fairly cool - at least not smoking hot like you would expect if it was sliping.

I also have an issue where I can't start it without stomping on the clutch to get the clutch safety switch (inside the engine bay) to read the clutch being depressed. I am still questioning if the OEM hydralics aren't able to bleed and there is air trapped somewhere.
 

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This would be my advice to anyone on the fence about messing with it. If you don’t have kids or pets I’d say let the Jeep burn to the ground before doing the recall or aftermarket route.

I'm not sure, given we also have reports of the same issue with the stock clutch after recall replacement. It seems to be more like "don't touch the clutch unless you absolutely have to."

That said, I'm curious if anyone ordered the ACT "street-mass" flywheel (the one that is a normal JK flywheel weight, which is still significantly more than the JL's light flywheel) rather than the heavier "pro-mass" and is having a similar issue.
 

gek

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I was referring to the JP6-HDSS vs the JP6-HDG6 which is the Race sprung version. I chose the JP6-HDSS after an exchange with @Actman. The clutch is much better than the oem up and until the resistance to shifting kicks in. Interestingly when it gets hard to shift, the clutch housing is still fairly cool - at least not smoking hot like you would expect if it was sliping.

I also have an issue where I can't start it without stomping on the clutch to get the clutch safety switch (inside the engine bay) to read the clutch being depressed. I am still questioning if the OEM hydralics aren't able to bleed and there is air trapped somewhere.
JP6-HDSS is still the pro mass(heavier) flywheel same one the JP6-HDG6 has.

https://www.advancedclutch.com/jp6-hdss-act-heavy-duty-off-road-performance-street-sprung-clutch-kit

https://www.advancedclutch.com/jp6-hdg6-act-heavy-duty-off-road-race-sprung-6-pad-clutch-kit

Here is the JP5-HDSS with the Street Mass flywheel

https://www.advancedclutch.com/jp5-hdss-act-heavy-duty-off-road-performance-street-sprung-clutch-kit
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