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Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

gek

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Jeremynolan94

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What is a ballpark estimate to have the transmission dropped and clutch inspected? I had my ACT installed at the same shop as @SadRobot so it's only a matter of time I feel before I start experiencing the same issues. Plus I want to get rid of the dumb creaking sound and feel that has plagued my clutch since it was installed. I'll bet mine is also caused by the same uneven wear on the ball that the clutch fork pivots on.

Or, better yet, anyone in the San Diego area want to help tackle it in my garage? I can't say I trust any random place to work on it now.
 

BHank0688

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What is a ballpark estimate to have the transmission dropped and clutch inspected? I had my ACT installed at the same shop as @SadRobot so it's only a matter of time I feel before I start experiencing the same issues. Plus I want to get rid of the dumb creaking sound and feel that has plagued my clutch since it was installed. I'll bet mine is also caused by the same uneven wear on the ball that the clutch fork pivots on.

Or, better yet, anyone in the San Diego area want to help tackle it in my garage? I can't say I trust any random place to work on it now.
When you do this could you take pictures of that ball and fork and post them? I haven’t drove our jeep since maybe November when the snow and salt started hitting our roads. I did bleed the clutch through the reservoir twice over night, just haven’t drove it yet so no idea if that got me anywhere or not with my noise. I do know I used the grease provided as I did the install myself, so I’m hoping not to encounter some of these issues that others have had. Just that annoying noise after it warms up after 5-10 mins down the road. If it turns out to be the fork/ ball idk that I’ll drop the transmission just for that.
 

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Jeremynolan94

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When you do this could you take pictures of that ball and fork and post them? I haven’t drove our jeep since maybe November when the snow and salt started hitting our roads. I did bleed the clutch through the reservoir twice over night, just haven’t drove it yet so no idea if that got me anywhere or not with my noise. I do know I used the grease provided as I did the install myself, so I’m hoping not to encounter some of these issues that others have had. Just that annoying noise after it warms up after 5-10 mins down the road. If it turns out to be the fork/ ball idk that I’ll drop the transmission just for that.
Yes I'll keep you posted if I do end up dropping it. Right now the creaking noise and pedal feel are my only symptoms, and only when the car has warmed up. But it has never quite felt right, so I suspect something is up.
 
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SadRobot

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It's wild to me that just a change in grease has that much effect on the clutch system. I've definitely never heard of anything like that before.

I would literally think it was any other problem before it was ever the grease and in fact I did. I just didn't figure there was any way it could make that amount of difference.
I don't know if I would have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes. When I ran my finger along the splines it really was like getting sap on my fingers. Also the fact that it took so long for it to happen was why I thought it was something else.

Dirk's original thought was the grease and he was 100% right. He knows clutches and he knows his clutch.
 
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SadRobot

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What is a ballpark estimate to have the transmission dropped and clutch inspected? I had my ACT installed at the same shop as @SadRobot so it's only a matter of time I feel before I start experiencing the same issues. Plus I want to get rid of the dumb creaking sound and feel that has plagued my clutch since it was installed. I'll bet mine is also caused by the same uneven wear on the ball that the clutch fork pivots on.

Or, better yet, anyone in the San Diego area want to help tackle it in my garage? I can't say I trust any random place to work on it now.
It took about 6ish hours and I feel like the average rate around here is about $175/hr at a shop. So you are probably looking at around a little over 1k.

I was there for the entire process and I am really impressed with those who do this work in their own garage with the Jeep on the ground. Maybe those who have done their own can give some advice on that front.

You do need to remove the factory skids, exhaust, and drive shafts. You'll need a trans jack to hold up the transmission as well. As somehow who has never done that kind of work before it definitely didn't look easy or simple.
 
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SadRobot

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Here was my stock clutch after 85k miles. Now that I'm really looking at these photos you can clearly see the same red wheel bearing grease on the splines. I bet what happened is the shop saw that and assumed they'd put the same grease back onto the new clutch.

Jeep Wrangler JL Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread) IMG_3551


Jeep Wrangler JL Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread) IMG_3540
 

BHank0688

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It took about 6ish hours and I feel like the average rate around here is about $175/hr at a shop. So you are probably looking at around a little over 1k.

I was there for the entire process and I am really impressed with those who do this work in their own garage with the Jeep on the ground. Maybe those who have done their own can give some advice on that front.

You do need to remove the factory skids, exhaust, and drive shafts. You'll need a trans jack to hold up the transmission as well. As somehow who has never done that kind of work before it definitely didn't look easy or simple.
It wasn’t fun. I got a 4- 6 ton jack stands and had the jeep up on those for the whole project. I couldn’t tell you how long it took me (way way more than 6 hours), but I feel like alot of the time was crawling out from under it to get another tool to continue to the next step. That and I did it over the winter when the car isn’t driven so when frustrated it sat for a week or two untouched lol. I didn’t take pictures at all, I’m awful at that. Act’s video made it pretty straight forward though. No real surprises. I think I read somewhere on this forum (it may have been Dirks idea) that said to cut the one bell housing to motor stud ,that’s on top of the bell housing ,down for the bracket that’s up there. It doesn’t need to be that long at all. I would would say do that for sure if it wasn’t done already. That bracket up there, still after a year ago, is the only part of the project I still recall as being a pain.
 

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BHank0688

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Here was my stock clutch after 85k miles. Now that I'm really looking at these photos you can clearly see the same red wheel bearing grease on the splines. I bet what happened is the shop saw that and assumed they'd put the same grease back onto the new clutch.

IMG_3551.jpg


IMG_3540.jpg
Or never cleaned it off or put new back on?
 

gek

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It took about 6ish hours and I feel like the average rate around here is about $175/hr at a shop. So you are probably looking at around a little over 1k.

I was there for the entire process and I am really impressed with those who do this work in their own garage with the Jeep on the ground. Maybe those who have done their own can give some advice on that front.

You do need to remove the factory skids, exhaust, and drive shafts. You'll need a trans jack to hold up the transmission as well. As somehow who has never done that kind of work before it definitely didn't look easy or simple.
More time consuming than difficult. The top bell housing bolts can suck to get to, and the weight of the transmission/t-case adds to the difficulty, but it is mostly just unbolting things so you can get it out.
 
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SadRobot

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It wasn’t fun. I got a 4- 6 ton jack stands and had the jeep up on those for the whole project. I couldn’t tell you how long it took me (way way more than 6 hours), but I feel like alot of the time was crawling out from under it to get another tool to continue to the next step. That and I did it over the winter when the car isn’t driven so when frustrated it sat for a week or two untouched lol. I didn’t take pictures at all, I’m awful at that. Act’s video made it pretty straight forward though. No real surprises. I think I read somewhere on this forum (it may have been Dirks idea) that said to cut the one bell housing to motor stud ,that’s on top of the bell housing ,down for the bracket that’s up there. It doesn’t need to be that long at all. I would would say do that for sure if it wasn’t done already. That bracket up there, still after a year ago, is the only part of the project I still recall as being a pain.
Yes Dirk did cut the stud on mine. Some bolts on my exhaust were rusted so those gave some trouble.

The idea of trying to do that in my little 1 car garage is kind of laughable. Just no way that was gonna happen.
 

gek

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'̶𝟣̶8 ̶𝖩̶𝖫̶𝖴̶ '̶𝟤̶𝟣̶ ̶𝖶̶𝗂̶𝗅̶𝗅̶𝗒̶𝗌̶ ̶𝖬̶𝖺̶𝗇̶𝗎̶𝖺̶𝗅̶ '23 JLUR XR
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Here was my stock clutch after 85k miles. Now that I'm really looking at these photos you can clearly see the same red wheel bearing grease on the splines. I bet what happened is the shop saw that and assumed they'd put the same grease back onto the new clutch.

IMG_3551.jpg


IMG_3540.jpg
I don't recall mine having any grease like that on it. It kind of looks like they greased it and put that back together, but no idea why they would do that.
 

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It wasn’t fun. I got a 4- 6 ton jack stands and had the jeep up on those for the whole project. I couldn’t tell you how long it took me (way way more than 6 hours), but I feel like alot of the time was crawling out from under it to get another tool to continue to the next step. That and I did it over the winter when the car isn’t driven so when frustrated it sat for a week or two untouched lol. I didn’t take pictures at all, I’m awful at that. Act’s video made it pretty straight forward though. No real surprises. I think I read somewhere on this forum (it may have been Dirks idea) that said to cut the one bell housing to motor stud ,that’s on top of the bell housing ,down for the bracket that’s up there. It doesn’t need to be that long at all. I would would say do that for sure if it wasn’t done already. That bracket up there, still after a year ago, is the only part of the project I still recall as being a pain.

Jeep Wrangler JL Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread) 1000007997




I actually notched the bracket on top, instead of cutting the stud. Just swung it into position and tightened it down. I have video of it. I really just need to put all this into my build thread already. Lmfao
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