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Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

58Willys

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I don't know how it works but get it into third gear (or higher) at a moderate speed and then gently attempt first, it blocks you.
Most any synchronized tranny will do this if you don’t double clutch. The synchros can’t keep up, no mechanical blocking device.
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Most any synchronized tranny will do this if you don’t double clutch. The synchros can’t keep up, no mechanical blocking device.
This was also my understanding.

I guess the ecu using rpm and gear position could throw up a warning when the the trans stack is too far apart in rpm to synchronize. Using pre-determined math.

Which would be a logical correspondence between a message and a mechanical limitation.
 

WJ43

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Yes, thats my thoughts as well.

Shifts dont grind, so synchros are good.

My hydraulics are solid.

It has to be the clutch hanging up here and there. Locking you out, or locking you in gear. Which is upsetting to have on relatively new assemblies.

Now we go down that rabbit hole.

Is it dirty Input shaft splines?

Binding from tight tolerances and thermal expansion?

Is the clutch fork flexing and not transfering enough movement on the pressure plate?

Could the pressure plate have spring issues?

Pretty much any of this requires dropping the trans. Which its too cold for me to want to do it right now, lmfao
it could be too much grease on the clutch fork or the throwout bearing - somewhere I read that too much grease would cause the throwout bearing to hang up.
 

WJ43

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Those of you with the ACT clutch, how much do you find it vibrates when engaged? I feel like mine is getting worse. There is a very noticable vibration or harshness in the pedal, almost to the point where I can feel it vibrate the floorboard when accelerating. This is in addition to the creaking/croaking sound that has been detailed here and in other threads. I've had intermittent issues getting into 5th gear but otherwise shifting isn't too bad, just slow. Still, this car definitely doesn't shift nearly as well as when I first got it.

Wish I'd stuck with the stock clutch and just regeared. I'm wondering at what point I'd like to take it in to get looked at, since something doesn't quite feel right. That, or just trying to get the recall done.
mine is smooth, but only has 600 miles since the new CF master cylinder went in
 

m3reno

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Well picked up my Jeep with the new batteries, which were covered under warranty. The Jeep drives the same, lock out going into first!
 

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WJ43

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Well picked up my Jeep with the new batteries, which were covered under warranty. The Jeep drives the same, lock out going into first!
I guess the replacement batteries were not the magic bullet We were all hoping they would be
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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Those of you with the ACT clutch, how much do you find it vibrates when engaged? I feel like mine is getting worse. There is a very noticable vibration or harshness in the pedal, almost to the point where I can feel it vibrate the floorboard when accelerating. This is in addition to the creaking/croaking sound that has been detailed here and in other threads. I've had intermittent issues getting into 5th gear but otherwise shifting isn't too bad, just slow. Still, this car definitely doesn't shift nearly as well as when I first got it.

Wish I'd stuck with the stock clutch and just regeared. I'm wondering at what point I'd like to take it in to get looked at, since something doesn't quite feel right. That, or just trying to get the recall done.
I have none of that with mine. Installed June 2023. I’ve had the 1st/R lockout twice, and my wife says the same. Hasn’t happened since summer when it was very hot and humid.

Zero vibration, no creaks, no groans. It’s my favorite upgrade and 200x better than stock, and I was one of the few who thought stock wasn’t so bad. The heavy flywheel makes all the difference. I do shift slowly, but did even when stock. It’s a Jeep! (Even with this ACT setup I could still shift faster than a stock JK, but don’t.)

Sorry you’re having those issues. Probably no remedy other than a *good* trans shop taking it apart to see what’s wrong.
 

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Odds are, that its just a gummed up input shaft causing the friction disc not to fully release. Its the most likely culprit, also a PITA to fix. Im still dancing around dropping my trans again. Trying to exhaust every other avenue first, lol
I'm planning on dropping mine this summer or maybe spring to check this but would like to have a permanent solution before I do that, if this is the issue, not liking the idea of making this a "maintenance" item to drop the trans every year to clean the shaft SMH
 

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I'm planning on dropping mine this summer or maybe spring to check this but would like to have a permanent solution before I do that, if this is the issue, not liking the idea of making this a "maintenance" item to drop the trans every year to clean the shaft SMH
Well, maybe ditch the grease and run a dry lube, or no lube.
 

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58Willys

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This was also my understanding.

I guess the ecu using rpm and gear position could throw up a warning when the the trans stack is too far apart in rpm to synchronize. Using pre-determined math.

Which would be a logical correspondence between a message and a mechanical limitation.
I think you are correct. PCM get a reading from wheel speed, rpm’s; and matches against gear position sensor, sends up a warning.
 

Duece McCracken

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