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M180 locker install

zeebo56

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Yeah, I wouldn’t bother getting into that. Time to go big or go home.
Called one shop and they said $450 to weld in the truss as they take apart the differential first. I think I will just run with what I have and see how long I can make it last before I take the plunge on upgrading axles.

Would suck to have the axle get damaged after just putting in 4.88s and a mechanical locker lol.
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word302

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Agree. I may not have said it but I thought it was implied that I thought the 37’s didn’t help the axle and may have contributed to the early death. Also, just running 37’s, to me, just encourages keeping up with the pack and hammering it might be more tempting. All that extra weight swinging around on the ends of any stock axle, Rubi or not, it’s a matter of time more than likely.

And it’s not the same old “30” anymore. It’s better but I don’t know how much better.
The FAD area is pretty weak on all JL axles. You either have to truss or upgrade, eventually it will fail there.
 

word302

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Called one shop and they said $450 to weld in the truss as they take apart the differential first. I think I will just run with what I have and see how long I can make it last before I take the plunge on upgrading axles.

Would suck to have the axle get damaged after just putting in 4.88s and a mechanical locker lol.
$450 is cheap to do a truss properly.
 
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P&PJeep

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Honestly I'd just save up for a set of Rubi take-offs. Lockers, 4.10 gears, wider by about 1.5".....by the time you buy the gears, install the gears, buy the truss, install the truss, buy the locker, install the locker......you're looking at well over the price of admission for a set of D44s with all of that installed already.
Found a set of Rubicon take-off axles complete with brakes & drive shafts around 4k but 3.73 gears. Your thoughts as 35 inch tires are the biggest I will go.
 

Shamwedge

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Found a set of Rubicon take-off axles complete with brakes & drive shafts around 4k but 3.73 gears. Your thoughts as 35 inch tires are the biggest I will go.
The Rubicon take-off axles have to be from a JL correct? Doing some research on this as well.
 

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Therby

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There have been quite a bit of bends/cracks around the FAD on the front axles from people running 35s and up. No way I'd run 37s on a D30 without a truss and after that much effort you may as well find a Rubi takeoff.
not really, you can add a truss and d30 eaton truetrac for under 1000 and it will be perfect for 35” tires

truss is cheap, get a buddy to weld it on. Simple

its also no different running 37s on a 44 vs a 30 from your point, you say the housing is weak on the FAD, the housing is the same between all axles

a rubi 44 will bend the exact same a dana30 will bend from 37s+
 
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Pig-Pen

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I just watched this video for installing this truss. It seems the JK was much more involved. This really isnt that difficult of a job.

 

zeebo56

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I just watched this video for installing this truss. It seems the JK was much more involved. This really isnt that difficult of a job.

Seems like a good project for us ;)
 

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DadJokes

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i watched exodus jeeps video on youtube.
he recommended the EVO truss, as it avoids welding to the cast steel and just welds to the main axle tube which causes less issues while giving strength
That makes sense if that’s the case. Does it bridge over to the other side somehow?

Getting into welding to nodular or cast iron is where it’s over the top for me personally seeing as there are other solutions.
 

zeebo56

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i watched exodus jeeps video on youtube.
he recommended the EVO truss, as it avoids welding to the cast steel and just welds to the main axle tube which causes less issues while giving strength
do you have a link for the evo truss for the JL dana 30?
 

Therby

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do you have a link for the evo truss for the JL dana 30?
sorry, thought i read it fit the 30 also.
Your stuck with the artec truss, i did it and it was very simple. Just time consuming
 

zeebo56

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sorry, thought i read it fit the 30 also.
Your stuck with the artec truss, i did it and it was very simple. Just time consuming
no worries. I couldn't find the evo one for the d30 so thought you must have seen it somewhere but I guess I would settle with the artec.
 

Therby

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That makes sense if that’s the case. Does it bridge over to the other side somehow?

Getting into welding to nodular or cast iron is where it’s over the top for me personally seeing as there are other solutions.
yes it bridges, sorry but the evo is for the 44 only

yes, I just welded it to the cast a little at a time and used a torch to heat it up first and used the torch to slowly let it cool so it wouldn’t crack as the two metals cool down
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