Help me install a torq locker (aussie)

[entropy]

Just my 2 cents - If you are installing a Torq Locker on a Jeep JL it is more involved. Depending on your comfort level it might be a lot to take on.

1. Remove Tires, Caliper, Rotor, Unit bearing, and Axle (no Need to remove the hub from the axle)
2. Remove the FAD motor, c-clip, and slide the intermediate axle out several inches
3. Drain, Open the Differential, before removing anything, mark the bearing caps side orientation
4. Remove front carrier, careful to remember which side the shims and races go on
5. Remove carrier pin
6. Remove Spider gears and shims
7. install torq locker per directions
8. Put it all back together in reverse order

Remember to clean everything out with brake clean and use Loctite (the real stuff). There are a few videos on these items, but nothing detailed and specific for a torq locker on a jeep JL.

Good news is that if you can do this install, you are really close to being able to do your own gears!

Did it a few weeks ago. wasnt too bad. Thanks though!

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[Jeremynolan94]

Gonna revive this old thread since I will soon be installing a Torq locker on my Dana 30.

Couple of questions. First, I'm assuming you re-install the thrusts washers that pop out when you removed the spider gears? Or do you ditch those when you install the locker? I understand that the shims on either side of the carrier go back into place when putting everything back together.

Second, where is the best location to find torque values for things like ring gear bolts and bearing end caps? Is it okay to reuse all hardware or should I also seek out new bolts?

 

[azwjowner]

Gonna revive this old thread since I will soon be installing a Torq locker on my Dana 30.

Couple of questions. First, I'm assuming you re-install the thrusts washers that pop out when you removed the spider gears? Or do you ditch those when you install the locker? I understand that the shims on either side of the carrier go back into place when putting everything back together.

Second, where is the best location to find torque values for things like ring gear bolts and bearing end caps? Is it okay to reuse all hardware or should I also seek out new bolts?

Take a look at the install guide: https://torqmasters.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/TL-13327-Supplement-Dana-30-3rd-generation-JL.pdf

For the m186 (Dana 30), you use the blue thrust washers provided with the Torq locker -- you don't reuse your existing.

Your torque values for axle hardware are here: https://d3qx1uccksbb2n.cloudfront.net/docs/SPECSHEET-JL-FRONT-D30-42019.pdf

You can reuse the hardware. Have you ever removed a differential carrier before?

 

[Jeremynolan94]

Take a look at the install guide: https://torqmasters.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/TL-13327-Supplement-Dana-30-3rd-generation-JL.pdf

For the m186 (Dana 30), you use the blue thrust washers provided with the Torq locker -- you don't reuse your existing.

Your torque values for axle hardware are here: https://d3qx1uccksbb2n.cloudfront.net/docs/SPECSHEET-JL-FRONT-D30-42019.pdf

You can reuse the hardware. Have you ever removed a differential carrier before?

Thank you for the info!

This will be the first time I tackle something with the diff so I've been watching install videos to get an idea of what all is ivolved. I feel pretty confident I can do it, and I'm trying to learn more so this is a great opportunity to do so.

All that being said, any particular pointers or things I should be aware of?

 

[azwjowner]

Thank you for the info!

This will be the first time I tackle something with the diff so I've been watching install videos to get an idea of what all is ivolved. I feel pretty confident I can do it, and I'm trying to learn more so this is a great opportunity to do so.

All that being said, any particular pointers or things I should be aware of?

- You don't need to remove any axle nut; just take the 3 bolts out that hold the hub to the knuckle and take the hub and axle out as a single unit.
- Take a photo of the differential before you remove the bearing cap bolts. This way you capture their orientation.
- The factory carrier shims are a single thick shim on either side. I'd take a marker and make a dot pattern on the edge so there's no risk of mixing them up. When you remove the carrier they often fall and roll.
- You've probably seen the box wrench trick for removing the differential carrier. That worked on the rear but did not work for me on the front. My m186 carrier was shimmed too tight. I ultimately laid down on my back and used my Harbor Freight Maddox slide hammer to put a two-jaw puller on the middle of the carrier (being careful not to hit the spider/side gears) and tugged the carrier out while also putting my feet over the carrier bearings on either side to stop the carrier from absolutely flying out once it broke free.
- When putting the carrier back in, after you've used your dead blow hammer to get everything in place and you're about to torque the bearing cap bolts, hit the bearing caps with the dead blow hammer first to be sure everything is absolutely seated.

 

[Jeremynolan94]

- You don't need to remove any axle nut; just take the 3 bolts out that hold the hub to the knuckle and take the hub and axle out as a single unit.
- Take a photo of the differential before you remove the bearing cap bolts. This way you capture their orientation.
- The factory carrier shims are a single thick shim on either side. I'd take a marker and make a dot pattern on the edge so there's no risk of mixing them up. When you remove the carrier they often fall and roll.
- You've probably seen the box wrench trick for removing the differential carrier. That worked on the rear but did not work for me on the front. My m186 carrier was shimmed too tight. I ultimately laid down on my back and used my Harbor Freight Maddox slide hammer to put a two-jaw puller on the middle of the carrier (being careful not to hit the spider/side gears) and tugged the carrier out while also putting my feet over the carrier bearings on either side to stop the carrier from absolutely flying out once it broke free.
- When putting the carrier back in, after you've used your dead blow hammer to get everything in place and you're about to torque the bearing cap bolts, hit the bearing caps with the dead blow hammer first to be sure everything is absolutely seated.

Thanks for those pointers. I take it there is enough room to remove the carrier without taking off the tie rod? When I peeked under there it looked like it might be a tight fit.

 

[azwjowner]

Thanks for the


Thanks for those pointers. I take it there is enough room to remove the carrier without taking off the tie rod? When I peeked under there it looked like it might be a tight fit.

You have to remove it at just the driver side knuckle, and then you can pull it up and tie it out of the way.

 

[roaniecowpony]

DO NOT MIX UP THE BEARING CAPS. Do whatever you have to; mark them, take pictures etc. Just don't mix them left to right or top to bottom.

You don't need to remove the inner FAD shaft completely. You can leave the C-clip on it and just slide it out as far as needed to get it out of the carrier (~4-5 inches). Pull your outer axles all the way out (with or without the hub bearings, depending on how you disassembled it). You'll find dirt/sand in the axle tubes and on the shafts, if you've used it offroad much. You're going to want to clean that out as much as possible. The reason is that dirt will get dragged into the housing as you insert the axles to assemble it. But, maybe more important, dirt will get into the seal and chew it up quickly. I used a square piece of wood with a couple solvent wetted papertowels wrapped around the end. Repeat as many times as necessary to get the tube acceptably clean.

 

[apensity]

Did it a few weeks ago. wasnt too bad. Thanks though!

Do you remember how you removed the roll pin that kept the carrier pin in place? In the M210, you can't punch it out, I think you have to press the carrier pin through and sheer off the roll pin and replace it with a new one. Does that ring a bell? How did you get the roll pin out? Thanks!

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