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Loosen Upper Control Arms when Lifting?

rustyshakelford

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You mean because of the degrees passed torque? It's not that hard to get close by eye.
Correct but also getting them to the correct numbers can be challenging and a 150 ft lb won’t get it. They have the wildest torque requirements.

Examples are 41 ft lbs + 185° or 37 ft lbs + 135°

What we see is the final torque value is pretty repeatable so I don’t know why they don’t use that

Brett
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Roky

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I'm 1/4 the way covered LOL. Need rears and Uppers.

IMG_1754.jpeg
great choice in arms.... if you did the install you know already, but if you had them installed, make sure they torqued jam nut to 250 ft lbs. I’ve had guys come ask me why their rk arms at the axle end won’t stay straight, and it was because they didn’t get them to 250. ...:).
 
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jmcdtucson

jmcdtucson

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Retorquing everything on the ground is a PITA, especially the upper control arm. At least for this 150 pound middle aged rookie. I used the floor jack to turn the torque wrench in order to get to the final torque on the front LCAs.

I did get everything swapped out today but still have some of the final torquing to finish up in the morning. I think I'll remove the front left tire and then lower the axle to the same level it as when the tire was on. That will keep the geometry the same and give me better access to the upper control arm bolt on the axle as well as the track bar bolt on the frame.
 

vavaroutsos

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I think these are just bs instructions. The vehicles Control arms are constantly moving especially when flexing. So why wouldn't they re-flex on their own when lifting etc.
It's not BS. However, it only applies to bushings that are bonded to their housing like Clevite. You want them torqued down at ride height so there is no stress on the bushings unless the suspension is flexed. With Johnny joints, or other bushings that rotate in their housing, it's a waste of time.
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