Looking for better & safer lug nuts

[blnewt]

I measured the 22mm wheel nut socket with the plastic cover removed. It is 1in and 5/32 (just a hair under 1in 3/16) it was the exact same diameter as my 12 point deep 22mm Craftsman socket if that helps. So if a 12 point 22mm fits but want a 6 point option it would fit the bill.

Ok sounds like it's about what my socket OD is, roughly 30mm, so a good option for sure, and nice to have that sleeve if you have the room to keep it on to protect the wheel finish

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[NewTXJL]

So what’s the verdict folks? This just happened to me.

 

[blnewt]

So what’s the verdict folks? This just happened to me.

That's some scary stuff right there. If you have wheels that can run a bigger lug nut I'd definitely look into that.

 

[NewTXJL]

That's some scary stuff right there. If you have wheels that can run a bigger lug nut I'd definitely look into that.

I’m running Icon Rebounds and the lug nuts were supplied by discount tire when I had the wheels mounted.

 

[blnewt]

I’m running Icon Rebounds and the lug nuts were supplied by discount tire when I had the wheels mounted.

Saw your other thread about the improper mounting, if one stud snapped I'm sure the others are in bad shape w/ at a minimum the threads being stretched. I'd have Discount tire replace all the studs, and at least then the spline lug nuts that they supply should suffice if ONLY torqued to 130 ft. lbs.

I'd be on the lookout for other lug nut options though, like the McGard spline nuts since it looks like the Icons have limited room in there.

G'luck!

 

[sherif JKU]

did any one try the Mcgard set ? it claims exceeding OEM safety limits . any reviews for that ?

 

[roaniecowpony]

Since this thread is referenced in a newer thread, I thought it would be worth adding some more information.

First, the conical contact area is clearly an important issue as those that posted in this thread have indicated.

The "forged" vs other material is likely moot. Other types of processed steel will most likely be bar stock. Bar stock grain structure has benefits much like "forged" as it is indeed forged itself. "Cold rolled" bar stock is essentially cold forged. I could go on, but the two are effectively equivalent.

Where forging makes sense is the "bulged" cone area. This can be either hot forged or cold forged. It makes sense for economics more than a strength issue. Using bar stock then forging the bulge is the more likely process.

All that being said, I bought some Dorman "racing" lug nuts for my Dirty Life Canyon wheels. They have a .915" diameter at the conical bulge and a 3/4" hex with an overall length of 2.36", so they are easy to start in my wheels with deep small holes.

While I like the overall design of the Dorman lug, I tried a few on my studs and found the thread to be loose and was concerned. So, I found a used thread "go-no go" gauge on ebay to check the thread pitch.

I am a retired engineer and had owned a machine shop at one point. So I'm very familiar with thread dimensional tolerances and their effect on strength.

Good threaded products stay within the published tolerances and many cheaply made products have oversize threads which reduce the strength of the thread and introduce more likelyhood of stripping. I just got the gauge and will check all the lugs before using them. I found some of my truck's aftermarket China made lugs were unacceptably loose. Do what you like with this information.

 

[blnewt]

Since this thread is referenced in a newer thread, I thought it would be worth adding some more information.

First, the conical contact area is clearly an important issue as those that posted in this thread have indicated.

The "forged" vs other material is likely moot. Other types of processed steel will most likely be bar stock. Bar stock grain structure has benefits much like "forged" as it is indeed forged itself. "Cold rolled" bar stock is essentially cold forged. I could go on, but the two are effectively equivalent.

Where forging makes sense is the "bulged" cone area. This can be either hot forged or cold forged. It makes sense for economics more than a strength issue. Using bar stock then forging the bulge is the more likely process.

All that being said, I bought some Dorman "racing" lug nuts for my Dirty Life Canyon wheels. They have a .915" diameter at the conical bulge and a 3/4" hex with an overall length of 2.36", so they are easy to start in my wheels with deep small holes.

While I like the overall design of the Dorman lug, I tried a few on my studs and found the thread to be loose and was concerned. So, I found a used thread "go-no go" gauge on ebay to check the thread pitch.

I am a retired engineer and had owned a machine shop at one point. So I'm very familiar with thread dimensional tolerances and their effect on strength.

Good threaded products stay within the published tolerances and many cheaply made products have oversize threads which reduce the strength of the thread and introduce more likelyhood of stripping. I just got the gauge and will check all the lugs before using them. I found some of my truck's aftermarket China made lugs were unacceptably loose. Do what you like with this information.

Great info in that post @roaniecowpony
So are you going to continue using those longer lug nuts or are you still on the hunt for something w/ tighter thread fit?

 

[roaniecowpony]

Great info in that post @roaniecowpony
So are you going to continue using those longer lug nuts or are you still on the hunt for something w/ tighter thread fit?

My thread gauge showed up this morning. I checked all the Dorman "racing" lugs. Only one was bad. It's a pkg of 24 anyway, so not a problem I did have some that the "Go" gauge would hang up in and I'm still going to measure/try each lug to make sure they go on far enough to tighten the wheel, since they are blind hole threaded.

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