JEEP HACKING CAN-C / CAN-IHS / UDS ! (Reverse Engineering)

[jmccorm]

Such a nice piece in person. May not work with speaker upgrades.... Then the wiring is hack lol I knew going in I may not get it to work. If it's possible with like $100.00 worth of extra pigtails I am willing to play with it.

Sounds like you're going to get it done! ?

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[jmccorm]

I worry about products like this. As Josh said, if they are being sneeky and tying into different busses, then you have to start worrying about how much you trust said device. This could be a huge safety / security risk. And, coming from some vendor on Aliexpress does not give me confidence.

I'll buy you one if you're willing to install it (on your vehicle, not mine).
(Serious offer.)

 

[redracer]

I'll buy you one if you're willing to install it (on your vehicle, not mine).

Haha. Thank you... but No.

I do like the concept of heads-up displays. I wonder if a 3" or 5" display pointed up from the dash to a reflective film would work well. This might be another good use for all of our research. hmmm...

 

[jmccorm]

I do like the concept of heads-up displays. I wonder if a 3" or 5" display pointed up from the dash to a reflective film would work well. This might be another good use for all of our research. hmmm...

Well, just here for the next few days, if you do feel the need to purchase one just for research purposes, let me know. I'll contribute half towards your purchase of one of these (with no installation required). I'd just be interested to know more about the film or any other major discoveries you make.

No reply needed, just PM me if interested.

 

[SPED1]

It looks to me like they want the white wire tapped so they can allow the HUD to be able to scroll through the info like the steering wheel switch does. I have the HUD with me today and Ill upload the pictures and scans of what it comes with at 4pm.

Steve

 

[SPED1]

This is what comes in the box. Shocker, all the instructions are Chinese! The OBD t harness has CAN wires going to the black box. Then 2 of those wires are to be run to the steering control module and scotchlock tapped into the LIN BUSS and the CAN C+.

 

[SPED1]

These are the Chinese instructions.

 

[SPED1]

Found the correct pigtail from Mopar for the CAN C+ wire! It is 68137881AA. So from what I am reading online and seeing behind my glovebox in the 68230877AA green 60ohm 13 way star connector every pigtail coming out of said connector has 2 wires. I only need the CAN C+ blue white wire for the HUD. What do I do with the Yellow wire that is CAN C-? I assume I need both hooked up or either the whole network crashes or I just won't get the signal. The Line BUSS wire I think I might splice into the correct way? On the Gladiator side a member bought and only hooked up the OBD plug and it lit up then shut down.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/heads-up-display-ali-express.47684/

 

[SPED1]

The T harness for the OBD connector has wires coming off of it to a separate black box a fuse and the 2 wires soldered to a scotchlock tap. Using the factory OBD connector pin out diagram I get the following:
2 - not used
3 - Diagnostic CAN IHS +
4 - ground
5 - ground
14 - Diagnostic CAN C-
15 - not used
16 - fused battery +

 

[redracer]

hmm, none of this makes sense. Are you sure that you traced to the right pins?

You can not use 2 wire can singnals without both the + and - . And, you can not tap + from the obdII and - from somewhere else. this is because of the security gateway module as it is a man in the middle gateway device, basically there is no electrical connection from the obdii can and the vehicle can wires. ... and, anyways, as a balanced signal, both wires should be the same length and take the same path.

 

[jmccorm]

hmm, none of this makes sense. Are you sure that you traced to the right pins? You can not use 2 wire can singnals without both the + and - .

Well, I think it is possible, it's just... improbable?

You'd have to go out of your way to design a solution that looks for a differential between a CAN HI and ground (versus looking for that larger differential between CAN HI and CAN LOW). It's still possible to reconstruct the signal with only ground and either CAN HI or CAN LOW... but it's so weird that it makes it more probable that somebody got something wrong. Either in designing it, or in tracing the cables.

I don't like seeing these improbable things. (Is it possible you could have gotten the pin numbers left/right mirrored?)

Is there anything that looks like an email address or a website you could send a blind message to and hope they can translate into English?

Another suggestion:
If you're gung-ho in getting this done, you could go to a site like fiverr.com and seek out some technical translation skills. There's going to be a cost for it, but as Fiverr is a freelancer gig site, the asking price is likely to be reasonable.

 

[jmccorm]

I rotated the PDF to make it easier to read (except for the first page).

 

[jmccorm]

PROJECT UPDATE:
Up until now, everything has been split across two physical Raspberry Pi 4Bs with two unique software tools, unique configurations, unique HATs, unique wiring. There's the Raspberry Pi that's in-vehicle (with a fully working CAN setup) and then there's the Raspberry Pi in the Living Room (with a mostly complete RGB controller and power management board, sans matching wiring).

I'm smack dab in the middle of consolidating a complete package onto the Living Room's Raspberry Pi and I'll be moving that into the vehicle and have it be the standard going forward. I'm dealing with a lot of broken functionality, but things are finally starting to move forward, at least.

TL;DNR:
Been stalled due to the fine details needing straightened out. Doing that now. Hope to get back to fun CAN stuff soon!

AND NOW A MORE UNFORTUNATE UPDATE:
Now everything is broken, nothing works. It will take time to unravel what all has gone wrong where.
At least I'm able to shut it all off and get the Wrangler running okay.

 

[redracer]

AND NOW A MORE UNFORTUNATE UPDATE:
Now everything is broken, nothing works. It will take time to unravel what all has gone wrong where.
At least I'm able to shut it all off and get the Wrangler running okay.

Isn't that how it always goes? when making progress, we break everything. Even things that had previously been believed to of been untouched. oh well.

Good Luck! It will all come together.

 

[jmccorm]

Robert,

I think I'm back to my problem with the CAN HAT not talking successfully with my Raspberry Pi 4B. Earlier, I had soldered a header onto my CAN HAT that was connected (in vehicle) to the Raspberry Pi 3, so I can't reuse that known working board. I've gone ahead and ordered a replacement. In the meantime, can you ship me a copy of your config.txt so that I can rule out a bad configuration?

You are running on RPi4 hardware... right?

EDIT: Scratch that, I'm good now!

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