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Adjusting castor after Mopar lift properly

Fuel Fire Desire

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I have a first production run 2018 Sport S unlimited. I added the Mopar lift in prep to put on 35’s, and accounting for the factory suspension settling it ended up yielding around 5” of actual lift. It’s since settled to a more reasonable 4” of total lift from the starting point. RE track bars were installed and aligned properly, along with a Fox 2.0 steering stab.

The jeep since new has always wanted to wander a bit on the highway, even stock. It’s more than just the vagueness on center with the steering (about 5° on center) which I will address with a Synergy sector shaft brace. Measuring castor after the lift I’m at 3.8°, which is the very front edge of tolerance. I’d like to be in the 6° range before I go to 35’s.

That said, I think I’ve decided on the MC LCA’s with the Duroflex joints. While the Jeep is used off road often, it rarely gets articulated near its limit where I go. Looking at MC’s website, it looks as though they recommend shortening the upper control arms over lengthening the lowers to achieve proper castor. I’d rather not draw the axle rearward if I don’t have to.


‘My questions:

Given my setup (Mopar lift, currently on 33’s going to 35’s) and what I do with it (fire trails with only mild articulation) would lengthening the LCA’s alone be satisfactory? End goal with going to 6° is to improve highway tracking.


While I prefer Johnny Joints, I do like the idea of the Duroflex joint. No need to grease, easily and inexpensively replaceable, while still providing a more stock-like amount of isolation. Has anyone had any long term issues with durability? Keeping in mind I rarely flex the Jeep out. The trails I use are so mild I don’t even disconnect. I just need ground clearance and sand floatation (hence the step up to 35x12.50’s).


And finally, I see that the MC LCA’s don’t have a provision to mount the front brake line brackets. Would it hurt anything to just remove the brackets andlet the lines dangle, or should I be finding another method to secure them?
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verapx

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I recently went through the same thing when I had the COR ride right 2.5" lift installed. It came with upper control arms with the kit but I bought the lower control arms also and that allowed the front axle to be put in the right place with the correct caster. Tracks straight down the road now.
 

srt20

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I have MC GameChanger and just lengthened the lowers. I zip tied wires to spring perch, IIRC.

Only had it on for short while, so cannot answer durability questions.
Jeep drives excellent (for a Jeep) on highway after I installed drag link and tie rod. Those were the biggest improvement in driving.
 
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Fuel Fire Desire

Fuel Fire Desire

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I have MC GameChanger and just lengthened the lowers. I zip tied wires to spring perch, IIRC.

Only had it on for short while, so cannot answer durability questions.
Jeep drives excellent (for a Jeep) on highway after I installed drag link and tie rod. Those were the biggest improvement in driving.
Did that stiffen up steering response well too? Or did that help with the vagueness/ wandering as well? I could see how there can be flex in the factory drag link and tie rod, they seem pretty light.
 

srt20

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Did that stiffen up steering response well too? Or did that help with the vagueness/ wandering as well? I could see how there can be flex in the factory drag link and tie rod, they seem pretty light.
Yes it is much more solid feeling. I mean, its not like a vehicle with a steering rack, but its tight for what it is. The OEM stuff just had so much unwanted feedback. Not thick enough.
I have no vagueness or wandering. I dont recall what the castor is set at exactly, but its high, over 7* maybe almost 8*.

I haven’t driven a lot of lifted Jeeps, but mine is by far the best driving one of the few I’ve driven. My OCD has a hard time accepting less than perfect….
 

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Fuel Fire Desire

Fuel Fire Desire

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Yes it is much more solid feeling. I mean, its not like a vehicle with a steering rack, but its tight for what it is. The OEM stuff just had so much unwanted feedback. Not thick enough.
I have no vagueness or wandering. I dont recall what the castor is set at exactly, but its high, over 7* maybe almost 8*.

I haven’t driven a lot of lifted Jeeps, but mine is by far the best driving one of the few I’ve driven. My OCD has a hard time accepting less than perfect….
With your castor that high, how’s pinion angle? Any noise in 4x4? Still on the factory drive shaft? I was toying with the idea of going aftermarket to get traditional U joints if it became a problem at 6°.
I was also thinking about going to a high steer kit too, since the factory tie rod hangs so low and is basically a shower curtain rod. I’m honestly surprised I haven’t folded it on a stump yet.
 

roaniecowpony

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Fuel Fire Desire

Fuel Fire Desire

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Just my opinion, but you can't fix loose steering with additional caster. Yes, additional caster can help with a twitchy steering setup.

Is this normal? Steering wandering all over the place. Brand new 2021 Rubicon 2 Door | Page 10 | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) - Rubicon, Sahara, Sport, 4xe, 392 - JLwranglerforums.com
I’m not expecting castor to fix the JL loose steering issue, that’s what I’m going to try a sector shaft brace for. The castor I want is to increase tracking on the highway. The vagueness on center and wandering I’m getting are two different issues.

‘The wandering I’m getting isn’t any worse than what my 2017 build year (2018 model year) had from the factory, but it’s been annoying on long road trips having to constantly stay on top of steering corrections to keep it from leaving its lane. Having vagueness on center just amplifies the amount of correction needed to counteract the wander.

The big tipping point on why I’m trying to tackle this now, is that on the factory donut tires it was noticeable, on the 285’s I have now it’s very apparent and takes driver attentiveness to stay on top of, with 35x12.50’s coming I don’t want to have a constant battle on my hands…….or worse yet have someone drive my Jeep that has no experience with it and be all over the road with it. My mother needed to use it a few weeks ago, and I gave her a full briefing on how to drive it and what to be prepared for. All I got back was a concerned look, lol.
 

lashlee

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I recently installed a MC GC3.5 on my wife's JLUR with 37's. While I had it apart I added the Synergy sector shaft brace (her's has already had the steering box swapped). It certainly firms up the feel from behind the wheel.

As for the lower links, I think you'll be fine but like someone else noted, check your pinion angle along with the caster. After the install I had it aligned, my caster is 5.8 degrees on one side and 5.6 degrees on the other. No twitchy steering or tank slappers with it setup that way. It's a two finger on the wheel kind of ride when it comes to hitting bumps on the pavement. I think you'll be very pleased with the outcome once you get it all installed. I think I zip tied the brake lines to the lower shock mount like someone else said (I have a set of the teraflex brackets to put on once I get some time to tinker).
 

roaniecowpony

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I have a sector shaft brace. It did nothing detectable. I took it off when I had the new cast iron steering box installed.

If you don't already have the latest steering box, I recommend you get it. If getting it on warranty, the dealer will not like any trackbar brace or steering shaft brace on there, IME. They will also want you to have the latest trackbar. I found a local member that had his OEM trackbar, which he gifted to me. It happened to be the latest p/n that met the steering box TSB.

If you're out of warranty and don't want to spring for the new steering box, you can adjust the aluminum box to pretty good results.
 

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Fwiw, I'm on the 'old' steering box and the caster increase did wonders for my steering. Albeit on stock Rubicon height.
 
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Fuel Fire Desire

Fuel Fire Desire

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I just looked up the terraflex bracket. Those look about perfect, and give more range of motion over just a zip tie. Not bad at under $30 too.
 
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Fuel Fire Desire

Fuel Fire Desire

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I have a sector shaft brace. It did nothing detectable. I took it off when I had the new cast iron steering box installed.

If you don't already have the latest steering box, I recommend you get it. If getting it on warranty, the dealer will not like any trackbar brace or steering shaft brace on there, IME. They will also want you to have the latest trackbar. I found a local member that had his OEM trackbar, which he gifted to me. It happened to be the latest p/n that met the steering box TSB.

If you're out of warranty and don't want to spring for the new steering box, you can adjust the aluminum box to pretty good results.
I waited too long to get it under warranty. Though my JL did it when I took it off the lot, I just lived with it. When a TSB was finally issued I had become so used to it I just elected not to hand over my Jeep for weeks at a time to have them diagnose, wait on parts, and install. I think now that the lift is on and had robbed me of some castor, it’s just more noticeable since I’m having to swim through the vague spot to manually aid in tracking. It’s definitely not any worse than new, but with the slightly less stable tracking I’m just noticing it again.

I’ve been debating on spending the money on the synergy or try the cheaper MC. I’m not a fan of having an ungreaseable plain bearing, but it is half the cost of the synergy, and far less complex (fewer bolts to back out over time). The MC is also much more out of the way to help with clearance under articulation since I have an aftermarket adjustable track bar.
 
 







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