Is this typical for a Jeep alignment?

[KNN]

Is the jam nut on the track bar tight? Hard to tell in the pics, but looks like it may be backed off.

Yes. It’s hard to tell from that pic buts tight. It hasn’t budged and shows no signs of movement since torqued (paint mark).

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[KNN]

I may have missed in this this thread, but if you're still having trouble with this, take a look at your tie rod ends on your tie rod and drag link.

I installed the 2.5 Clayton Overland+ on my JLUR and had a similar issue with DW suddenly becoming an issue. After a lot of troubleshooting, we found that the TRE on my drag link at the pitman arm was shot. This thread had a lot of excellent information that helped me chase down the problem.

All this occurred at around 36,000 miles with about 5-6K of those miles occurring off road. I ended up just upgrading to Metalcloak's steering. Hasn't been an issue since.

This is an amazing thread. Thank you very much for sharing. I’ll go through very carefully and follow the instructions.

 

[KNN]

Can you confirm your front and rear axles are centered? I put a 4' level vertical on the outside of the tire and measure to the fender, then compare the two measurements.

I wouldn't throw more money at it until you've identified what is happening.

I’m about 3/8” off in the front (FL = 2 3/4” and FR = 2 3/8”) and 1/2” off in the rear (RL = 2 1/2” and RR 2”). These were best I could do w/ a level and tape measure off fender and wheel as suggested.

 

[KNN]

Follow up post:

With much support from this community, especially from King @Roky , I’m happy to report my Jeep is driving much better since my first post! I followed Roky’s advice to a T and reported my alignment numbers back time to him each time (three more in total).

• Dialed caster back (5.7-6)
• Upgraded track bar bolt (9/16” Grade 8)
• Centered axle; and
• Set toe in (1/16”)

I’ve got a new stabilizer on order along w/ appropriate clamp and bracket to get it on top of tie rod.

Question: I hear a “clunk” when I go over speed bumps at speed. If I go below 20mph its smooth and no noise. Above that I hear a clunk, which I think is coming from front passenger side, I’m not 100% sure though. Quiet otherwise.


Thoughts on what it could be?

 

[KNN]

Stabilizer came today.

Unfortunately my DW returned . If this gets rid of it, I’ll be happy but also concerned I haven’t addressed root cause.

The Clayton bracket looks beefy and I got the Steer Smarts clamp for when I eventually upgrade my tie rod. I got the bolt to make it work w/ the FOX ATS as well.

 

[KNN]

Question: I hear a “clunk” when I go over speed bumps at speed. If I go below 20mph its smooth and no noise. Above that I hear a clunk, which I think is coming from front passenger side, I’m not 100% sure though. Quiet otherwise.

On my Sport Ecodiesel my passenger upper control arm was hitting against the engine mount causing the clunk/noise I was hearing over speed bumps. Pics below of what I trimmed. Driver side looked notched from factory already.

 

[KNN]

Before

Driver

 

[KNN]

Installed Fox 2.0 ATS stabilizer and relocated above factory tie rod using Clayton steering stabilizer bracket and steer smarts clamp. It cleared factory steering linkages barely but did not get rid of shimmy/bump steer. Death wobble virtually eliminated (w/ stabilizer on).

 

[KNN]

Installed Steer Smarts Yeti XD tie rod and drag link. Feels a little better but still has bump steer/shimmy. Incorrectly ordered rubicon tie rod, had to swap w/ non-rubicon

Need to get bars more parallel.

 

[KNN]

Installed Teraflex 4” track bar bracket to get drag link and track bar closer to parallel (<1 degree diff) but bump steer is still there.

Had to modify Clayton stabilizer bracket to get setup to work.

Before Bracket

After Bracket

 

[KNN]

Bad batch of Teraflex track bar relocation brackets had wrong nut welded on.

M14-2.0 vs M14-1.5

Incompatible w/ Synergy stud (which is too short)

Bracket moves bolt hole about 1.5” up and 1/2” towards driver.

 

[falcon241073]

Glad to see you’re slowy getting it solved.

Here’s my final alignment numbers from the day after I installed my metalcloak 3.5” gamechanger. It’s settled some over the last couple of months. I’m trying to get back up to the shop to see if anything has changed. I have no bump steer or death wobble. I’m still running stock ball joints, tie rod, drag link, and stabilizer. But I have a 2.0l.

I’m tempted to bring my caster down to 6.0-6.2 range. But it drives really well and I’m almost thinking “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” lol

 

[KNN]

Glad to see you’re slowy getting it solved.

Here’s my final alignment numbers from the day after I installed my metalcloak 3.5” gamechanger. It’s settled some over the last couple of months. I’m trying to get back up to the shop to see if anything has changed. I have no bump steer or death wobble. I’m still running stock ball joints, tie rod, drag link, and stabilizer. But I have a 2.0l.

I’m tempted to bring my caster down to 6.0-6.2 range. But it drives really well and I’m almost thinking “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” lol

No!! Don’t do it lol I’d give anything to be worry-free again. I’m sure you’ll have plenty of time to replace those parts and experiment as you increase milage.

Enjoy it now!

 

[falcon241073]

No!! Don’t do it lol I’d give anything to be worry-free again. I’m sure you’ll have plenty of time to replace those parts and experiment as you increase milage.

Enjoy it now!

I’m replacing the tie rod and drag link soon. I can’t decide aluminum or steel.

Getting gears done in the next month or two. Truss welded on axle and better ball joints. Along with RCV axles. My only decision is keep the aluminum knuckles for now or replace with Reid iron knuckles (maybe the Mopar ones). Hoping I have the tie rod/drag link decision made by then and swap those while the front end is apart.

As for adjusting my caster? I’ll decide once it’s on the alignment rack. My friend is a shop manager and hooks the machine up and lets me get underneath and do the adjustments. I want to see if it changed any now that it’s had time to settle and make any changes if it really needs it. It may drive fine but I still want everything lined up as close as I can get it to 6. I’m taking my angle finder with me and writing down the current measurements it reads so I can fine tune at home if I need to or if I change anything out and need to reset anything.

I paid a one time life time alignment fee of $129 (discounted) and I can make an appointment and go up there for adjustments when I change stuff. As long as I don’t take advantage and go all the time lol.

 

[KNN]

Swear this isn’t a dirty video.

Ended up removing the Teraflex Relocation Bracket. While it helped get my bars more parallel it was causing some funky bump steer issues when I did the bounce test.

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