I know, another Locker vs anti spin Diff question

[timn1984]

Can someone tell me the difference between Lockers vs Anti-spin Differential? I know lockers lock both wheels at the same speeds. Anti spin Differential regulates the speeds, but still provides power to the non spinning wheel. How does this affect off roading? I really don't see much difference in the two. I'm sure someone will beat me down with a matter-of-fact your a dumb-ass answer. But I want to know how it really affects off roading.

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[intentsrig]

A locker is going to give you real 50/50 power to each wheel. The anti spin is going to stop a spinning wheel that has no traction and send power to the other one but it is not immediate and is sort of sporadic. It will go on and off spinning/stopping etc. So not going to have all the traction you really need. Also the anti-spin has clutch packs inside that wear out over time.

This has a good comparison of a real locker vs limited slip vs traction control.


Speaking of traction control, Jeeps BLD combined with the anti-slip is great but for sure is no locker.

 

[ECHO]

Anti spin will transfer power to the wheel with the best grip.. Locker has them both going.. I drove a JK with LSD front and back and it did great off road until a wheel was off the ground.. then it became more difficult

 

[Onyx Dragon]

Anti spin will transfer power to the wheel with the best grip.. Locker has them both going.. I drove a JK with LSD front and back and it did great off road until a wheel was off the ground.. then it became more difficult

If I remember right, applying slight pressure to the brakes help with that.

 

[multicam]

Also, the anti-spin diff is a reactive system which activates after a loss in traction is detected. Lockers are proactive and one enables them before one anticipates a loss of traction. I’d rather have an LSD than open diffs but generally speaking lockers are better off-road.

 

[ECHO]

If I remember right, applying slight pressure to the brakes help with that.

Yes it did, but with a standard trans, on 3 wheels going up hills on rocks .. that's the difficult part I was talking about ..

 

[Onyx Dragon]

Yes it did, but with a standard trans, on 3 wheels going up hills on rocks .. that's the difficult part I was talking about ..

Ouch, yeah, that part would suck.

 

[Sean L]

From my experience, The limited slip differential reacts pretty fast to get you power to the non slipping wheel. It in no way is a replacement for a true locking differential, so if you're constantly in situations where you're off camber, you'll want the locking diffs. You'll wear out your clutch pack quickly as @intentsrig pointed out. Most other situations (read: 4 wheels on the ground) you'll do fine.

 

[D60]

I had a long reply but I actually really like the video. He shows pretty much everything I would have mentioned.

One thing I really like that he illustrates is that with a "limited grip" you might be able to get through the same stuff but you'll have to do it with more momentum and throttle. This is uncontrolled, clumsy and actually increases chances of damage

 

[Maverick909]

i konw the differences but i can say that LSD hasn't gotten me stuck yet. so for now until i get my regearing done i suppose ill wait to install a locker

 

[NTX Black Moab]

IF doing a lot of off-roading, can you add lockers to a Wrangler with LSD / BLD?

 

[D60]

But also I'll never forget when I first got into 'wheeling I was on Hackett and Longwater outside Co Springs. It's largely sandy moguls the size of VW's on steep inclines. Our lifted IFS rigs were struggling.

There was an XJ with a mild lift just driving EVERYTHING like it was flat. We chatted with him later and we all assumed he was locked front and rear. NO! He was open f&r

That's when I understood the advantage of live axles, forced articulation and good wheel travel. If your rig can conform to the terrain like a slinky you'll need TAD's MUCH, MUCH less, and I would go so far as to say a compliant suspension absolutely can be a substitute for TAD's in most cases. Of, course it's best to have both which is why I'll be putting a quality, flexy lift on my JLUR

 

[D60]

IF doing a lot of off-roading, can you add lockers to a Wrangler with LSD / BLD?

Absolutely. What annoyed me is the carrier break still appears to be 3.54 and any non-Rubi I found was 3.45

So, say you just want to lock the rear to start.....you'll have to get a locker for 3.54 and under, meaning if you later want to re-gear you'll have to buy a whole 'nother new locker to go deeper than 3.54

Ok, you don't like that and know you want to re-gear eventually, so now you're gonna lock the rear and re-gear the rear. Great! Well, front diff's gotta match so you have to re-gear the front. And you'll have to get a new carrier there, too since you're re-gearing. Well, it's kinda dumb to buy a new open carrier while you've got everything apart when you could also pop a locker in there, so now you're doing the whole enchilada when all you wanted initially was a rear locker

If FCA had only factory-spec'd 3.73's.....

And *maybe* I'm wrong on the carrier breaks, can anyone confirm?

 

[intentsrig]

Absolutely. What annoyed me is the carrier break still appears to be 3.54 and any non-Rubi I found was 3.45

So, say you just want to lock the rear to start.....you'll have to get a locker for 3.54 and under, meaning if you later want to re-gear you'll have to buy a whole 'nother new locker to go deeper than 3.54

Ok, you don't like that and know you want to re-gear eventually, so now you're gonna lock the rear and re-gear the rear. Great! Well, front diff's gotta match so you have to re-gear the front. And you'll have to get a new carrier there, too since you're re-gearing. Well, it's kinda dumb to buy a new open carrier while you've got everything apart when you could also pop a locker in there, so now you're doing the whole enchilada when all you wanted initially was a rear locker

If FCA had only factory-spec'd 3.73's.....

And *maybe* I'm wrong on the carrier breaks, can anyone confirm?

I am not sure exactly but ARB makes a locker that directly swaps in for the sport 44 m220 and the M200. You cannot use rubicon lockers because despite both being 32 spline shafts..the rubicon has different length shafts driver/ passenger..just like the JK.

Of course you will need to get your gears set up correctly again. But from the looks of it you can leave your 3.45 gears.

I regeared to 5.13's and did not have to replace the carrier.

 

[NTX Black Moab]

Absolutely. What annoyed me is the carrier break still appears to be 3.54 and any non-Rubi I found was 3.45

So, say you just want to lock the rear to start.....you'll have to get a locker for 3.54 and under, meaning if you later want to re-gear you'll have to buy a whole 'nother new locker to go deeper than 3.54

Ok, you don't like that and know you want to re-gear eventually, so now you're gonna lock the rear and re-gear the rear. Great! Well, front diff's gotta match so you have to re-gear the front. And you'll have to get a new carrier there, too since you're re-gearing. Well, it's kinda dumb to buy a new open carrier while you've got everything apart when you could also pop a locker in there, so now you're doing the whole enchilada when all you wanted initially was a rear locker

If FCA had only factory-spec'd 3.73's.....

And *maybe* I'm wrong on the carrier breaks, can anyone confirm?

At this point in time, the largest I will be going is 35" tires so I'm not "likely" to regear. That may change depending on what the GF (future wife) decides she's willing to spend. I know at 37", I'm looking at a regear (from 3.45) and I'll probably have the lockers installed at that time.

For now I guess, I'll see how well the LSD / BLD combo works. I ask because I wanted to do an easy rock crawl at the BF Goodrich Offroad show and one of the guys there told me and my GF we needed lockers to be able to run it. These weren't very technical (it was in the infield at TMS) so I couldn't see how we could not have at least tried.

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