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High-Tide Front lean, who has it?

blessidsoul12

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This does sound maddening and not going to lie, I keep waiting for you to be like "HA, GOTCHA! I actually bought my non-392 for $107k at a dealership in Vegas and it's been in the dealer svc dept since November for suspension issues!"

How coatly or easy would it be to just swap any 4 new springs and see if that squares it up? Seems like that should be easiest thing to do before talking about track bars and control arms...

I'm following though to see how this is resolved. My JLUR sits perfectly level with the mopar lift. I wouldn't be able to sleep if it didn't.Good luck.
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Jtphoto

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As you have probably noticed by my posts I don’t waste a lot of time with factory springs and don’t hold much faith in them for swaps or longevity especially if adding heavy accessories.
Only thing that ALLOWS LEAN is the springs. Not shocks, track bars or swaybars. As suggested by others I would say just swap the springs out for something better.
Have you checked the PN tags on the springs. It’s totally possible that a mismatched spring found its way onto your Jeep.
I have matched sets of front (3.5ā€) and rear (2.5ā€) Rock Krawler springs on my 3.6L etorque XR with no lean.

Just an fyi… if the front wheels are turned and not straight, due to caster and camber the side the wheels are turned to will sit a bit higher.
 
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dayusmc

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I have checked the tags on the springs, I posted pictures further up in the tread... As far as the wheels being turned that is the reason I put the vehicle on jack stands, removed the wheels and just put the steering wheel straight, to take that variable out.
I will have to respectfully disagree with you as far as the springs being the only thing that can cause lean... A frozen shock could make the truck lean. A shock that has leaked some nitrogen out can cause lean. Additionally lean can occur if everything was torqued while the vehicle was not straight. A worn or broken spring isolator can cause a slight amount of lean.
This is the reason I follow and exact protocol when trying to diagnose a problem. This is also the reason I check the eye to eye distance with the shock on and off...
 
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dayusmc

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This morning I removed the Track bar and drag link and the heights stayed the same. So basically this has eliminated everything except the spring. I theory to double check this by swapping the springs left to right, if it is the spring the change in height (for the most part) should transfer sides... Not sure I am going to do that as I have a lot more work to do on the truck and time is starting to get short...
Since I have the truck apart and have removed the track bar and drag link already it is a good excuse to replace them with Yetis, and since I am replacing those parts with Yetis, I don't want them to be lonely, so I am just going to replace the tie rod with a yeti as wheel. And since I had to take the stock steering stabilizer off while working on the truck, I might as well replace it with a fox ATS so it matches the shocks I am putting on it.
I will leave extra 0.5" spacer on the passengers side for now, and put it back together with all the new parts when they get here and drive it a few thousand miles and remeasure it to see where it is at. One thing I haven't done yet, but will in the future will be scale the four corners of the truck (Like we do with circle track cars). that way I have a little more knowledge before either testing the rate on these springs or replacing the springs...
In short it is a lot more complicated than most people think. I should have been more clear with my initial post of just wanting to know if this amount of lean is normal for most High-Tides and if there was a known reason for it. I understand how to troubleshoot and how all the suspension works. I revalve my own shocks, I designed my own parts for motocross suspension. I wasn't looking for the "did you try this" with basic things that I have already explained in this post. But thank everyone for their input.
 

Jtphoto

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I have checked the tags on the springs, I posted pictures further up in the tread... As far as the wheels being turned that is the reason I put the vehicle on jack stands, removed the wheels and just put the steering wheel straight, to take that variable out.
I will have to respectfully disagree with you as far as the springs being the only thing that can cause lean... A frozen shock could make the truck lean. A shock that has leaked some nitrogen out can cause lean. Additionally lean can occur if everything was torqued while the vehicle was not straight. A worn or broken spring isolator can cause a slight amount of lean.
This is the reason I follow and exact protocol when trying to diagnose a problem. This is also the reason I check the eye to eye distance with the shock on and off...
To clarify, Shocks bare absolutely no weight, their job is to control the springs and provide a smoother ride, nothing more. Only the springs carry the weight.
- A stiff shock would affect the ride not the height.
- A frozen seized shock would not move again you would notice in the ride.
- A leaking shock you wouldn’t notice at all except for that corner may bounce uncontrollably. I totally blew out a rear shock didn’t even notice till i saw it covered in oil.
- tightened bushings in the air will settle after a few days. The reason we tighten them with weight is to protect the bushing from damage. if tightened when hanging once the weight is on it, it will sit higher to start but as it settles on the springs it will rip the bushings. Bushings aren’t designed to carry weight so they will settle after a bit of a drive.
Swapping springs L-R likely just prove one spring is weak.
 
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ForgottenTaco

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This does sound maddening and not going to lie, I keep waiting for you to be like "HA, GOTCHA! I actually bought my non-392 for $107k at a dealership in Vegas and it's been in the dealer svc dept since November for suspension issues!"

How coatly or easy would it be to just swap any 4 new springs and see if that squares it up? Seems like that should be easiest thing to do before talking about track bars and control arms...

I'm following though to see how this is resolved. My JLUR sits perfectly level with the mopar lift. I wouldn't be able to sleep if it didn't.Good luck.
I was thinking the same. Christy or what ever her name was returned under a new name
 
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dayusmc

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Again, I disagree as I have seen these issues before... But I am not asking anyone to agree with me. I was simply asking if my High-Tide had the same amount of lean as most others and if there was a common know issue for more lean on some of the High-Tides over others.
I troubleshoot my way, everyone else can do it their way. I am not suggesting others change their methods.
So that being said, no reason to post anymore in this thread. From what I gathered in the responses, are 0.5" is normal lean for a High-Tide, 3/4" to 7/8" is not. That is what I needed to know; I will find the problem. Thank you everyone for your input.
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