Going back to basics

[YBABRAT]

Seems like the overheating thread has gone to the wayside.... so I decided to create a thread on simple revert mods to either look retro or be both retro and useful. In my case better engine cooling, even though I have yet for its need, but plan on desert excursions next year. It's simpler than one thinks. My quick and dirty fastener fix was to use #10 nuts and slightly larger diameter washers. I placed the nut between the factory washer on the screw and placed the larger washer under nut. The nut is used as a spacer to shorten the long factory screw. I did not have shorter screws of the same diameter, so the fix I did was all on what was in my bits and bobs.

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[Flip]

I have no doubt that will create more air flow but stopped at traffic lights, stuck in traffic jams, crawling on the trail, especially in higher temperatures, it's probably not going to make a huge difference. Just a friendly suggestion, you could research the rpm extreme fan controller.

 

[YBABRAT]

I have no doubt that will create more air flow but stopped at traffic lights, stuck in traffic jams, crawling on the trail, especially in higher temperatures, it's probably not going to make a huge difference. Just a friendly suggestion, you could research the rpm extreme fan controller.

I have a tazer mini... it has fan control feature. Places fan at high speed. Another option is gladiator fan. Prolly get to that when I install an aftermarket all aluminum radiator.

I am thinking to seal off the outer grill openings as they are dead and useless. Marketing and engineers have no clue. It will be a nice custom retro 5 opening grill.

 

[Jeffy56]

I used to like the all aluminum radiator idea. I finally found one under $500. It failed one month out of warranty. Screw it.

 

[YBABRAT]

I used to like the all aluminum radiator idea. I finally found one under $500. It failed one month out of warranty. Screw it.

Geezo! My thoughts are it's not the radiator but how it is mounted. I had the idea for some time, when I searched for JL radiator leakage. They all seemed to leak at the seam on the left side of the radiator. That seam is plastic on aluminum. Plastic has little heat expansion. While aluminum expands when heated. If the radiator is mounted stiff like old jeeps and cars, the aluminum will flex by contraction and expansion. The flex will result in stressing the seam.

When I dig deeper into the radiator mounting, I may find the issue I am assuming on. From there I can look into a fix to allow semi floating mounting. It will also help from the jarring effects of offload use causing radiator support flex against the radiator.

 

[Jeffy56]

Geezo! My thoughts are it's not the radiator but how it is mounted. I had the idea for some time, when I searched for JL radiator leakage. They all seemed to leak at the seam on the left side of the radiator. That seam is plastic on aluminum. Plastic has little heat expansion. While aluminum expands when heated. If the radiator is mounted stiff like old jeeps and cars, the aluminum will flex by contraction and expansion. The flex will result in stressing the seam.

When I dig deeper into the radiator mounting, I may find the issue I am assuming on. From there I can look into a fix to allow semi floating mounting. It will also help from the jarring effects of offload use causing radiator support flex against the radiator.

True, mounting crucial! My case was actually for a Ford Ranger, 3 - 4 years ago. Factory lower rubber cup stud supports, 2 top bolts. Plenty of room to expand & contract. Leak occurred at weld from lower core to tank. No racing, no jumping, no over the cliff...... A waste of money to get limited heat exchange via the tanks. Better to find regular radiator with a thicker core, and/or more fins per inch, or improve air flow through engine bay.

 

[Jeffy56]

Maybe add these:
https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Stai...rds=boat+louvered+vents&qid=1724616621&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Amadget-Roun...ds=boat+louvered+vents&qid=1724616621&sr=8-26

 

[YBABRAT]

Hopefully Eagle will make them for JL. I may look into doing what I use to with my hobby car. Took other makes and models parts to make better. It's a Cuban sort of thing. Not one 50's car doesn't have another make's parts.

 

[Centurion07]

So that little thing in front of your radiator is the a/c condenser, made mostly out of aluminum paper maché. Anything from pebbles to maybe even a hard bug hits it, and it's gonna be warm in the desert. Ask me how I know...

 

[YBABRAT]

Maybe add these:
https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Stai...rds=boat+louvered+vents&qid=1724616621&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Amadget-Roun...ds=boat+louvered+vents&qid=1724616621&sr=8-26

A bit more custom than what is in mind... the side vents can be opened up with jewelers files. Though my issue is the fender panels for venting. They are not as open as I would like them to be. They vent but barely. It's going to be a bit more work than cutting open the Rubicon hood vents.

 

[TOTL Innovations]

Geezo! My thoughts are it's not the radiator but how it is mounted.

A lot of JK guys had cracking issues with the upgraded radiators on hemi swaps. The trick to fixing the issued seemed to us a spring loaded bolt on the upper mounts. You can see some pics here:

https://www.jkowners.com/posts/4401362/
https://www.jkowners.com/posts/4442272/

Just some ideas...

 

[YBABRAT]

A lot of JK guys had cracking issues with the upgraded radiators on hemi swaps. The trick to fixing the issued seemed to us a spring loaded bolt on the upper mounts. You can see some pics here:

https://www.jkowners.com/posts/4401362/
https://www.jkowners.com/posts/4442272/

Just some ideas...

Thanks! That sort of made my assumption about too rigid mounting a fact. It can be remedied easily... just have to get at it. I assumed rock crawlers were easy targets, due to jaring and body flex. Plus they go into extremes more with engine heat and weather.

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