Gear Swap

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

The spring is on the inside edge. If its leaking, I'm sure its not salvageable to reuse.
I didnt have to pound on my pinion or flange after swapping out my seal. I was able to get the nut flush and went to town tightening with a impact. I had to use a puller to get the flange off though.
Oh yeah, I counted the exposed thread on the pinion before removing the nut too.

????

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[Some Random Guy]

The spring is on the inside edge. If its leaking, I'm sure its not salvageable to reuse.
I didnt have to pound on my pinion or flange after swapping out my seal. I was able to get the nut flush and went to town tightening with a impact. I had to use a puller to get the flange off though.
Oh yeah, I counted the exposed thread on the pinion before removing the nut too.

????

Yeah, I've broken 2 pullers now with all the on/off. They were HF, so I wasn't suprised.
I'm going to try replacing the seal. I have a brand new mopar one that for sure has the spring in it. I'll see if I can VERY gently bump the flange on enough to grab the threads. Then, if it makes noise or leaks more it's going in.
No matter what, I'm selling this thing. I'm so angry every time I look at it. It's been down for warranty work or pending gear installs for almost 6 months of the 18 I've owned it.

 

[chevymitchell]

AND, I'm an idiot. I just realized now I have to drain my diff and remove my carrier to get my flange back on. It has taken a hammer with every pinion it's encountered.

You shouldn’t have to do this. The flange can be tapped on and expose enough threads to put the nut on with no issue. I’ve never had to remove a carrier to reinstall a flange.

 

[Some Random Guy]

You shouldn’t have to do this. The flange can be tapped on and expose enough threads to put the nut on with no issue. I’ve never had to remove a carrier to reinstall a flange.

I got it back on with minimal tapping using a deadblow. 1/8 turn at a time until I had enough thread engagement I'll be comfortable with the impact.
I haven't zipped it back down yet. I still don't have any idea why it's leaking. I was able to run a pick along the back of the seal and felt the spring, so it's there. The diff breather was clear, so am I just running too much gear oil? I err'd on the side of caution with a new diff cover and added a bit more than normal.

 

[word302]

AND, I'm an idiot. I just realized now I have to drain my diff and remove my carrier to get my flange back on. It has taken a hammer with every pinion it's encountered.

I’m not laughing at you, I’m laughing with you.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Sealed back up, I also found the drain plug was loose. No drips, but I wonder if under pressure it was letting some go. Level looks good on the dipstick, coming just up over the bottom of the axle tubes. I'll see how it does tomorrow.

 

[AlgUSF]

Sealed back up, I also found the drain plug was loose. No drips, but I wonder if under pressure it was letting some go. Level looks good on the dipstick, coming just up over the bottom of the axle tubes. I'll see how it does tomorrow.

All the best, I'm seriously considering a re-gear once Jeep is off the hook for the warranty. I'd like to DIY and I'm following your thread as well as ChevyMitchell's mega threads.

I replaced an axle shaft assembly and seal on my Tundra last week. My biggest concern is the shaft seal as you're running 50lbs of steel over and hoping it doesn't tear. Don't lose hope, you are almost there.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Ok, I have 6 days off counting today. I just swapped the pinion seal again and used the RTV that came with the rebuild kit this time. I'm wondering if my other stuff wasn't oil resistant enough. (Edit: none of it adhered to the diff case, only the seal). How long before I can try driving it? 1 hour, wait overnight?
I was worried I cooked the bearings losing too much oil, but the level came out ok. It smelled awful when I got it home after inspecting the previous seal, worse than when I first caught it. Gear oil still has good color, not blackened. I was only a pinion head bearing short of a new attempt, and I got one delivered today, but I'm trying this new seal first since the level was good and I don't want to dump all that gear oil if the seal is the only issue.

 

[grimmjeeper]

Ok, I have 6 days off counting today. I just swapped the pinion seal again and used the RTV that came with the rebuild kit this time. I'm wondering if my other stuff wasn't oil resistant enough. How long before I can try driving it? 1 hour, wait overnight?
I was worried I cooked the bearings losing too much oil, but the level came out ok. It smelled awful when I got it home after inspecting the previous seal, worse than when I first caught it. Gear oil still has good color, not blackened. I was only a pinion head bearing short of a new attempt, and I got one delivered today, but I'm trying this new seal first since the level was good and I don't want to dump all that gear oil if the seal is the only issue.

One thing I do when I install a pinion yoke is to put RTV on the splines of the yoke. Keeps any oil from seeping out.

 

[Some Random Guy]

One thing I do when I install a pinion yoke is to put RTV on the splines of the yoke. Keeps any oil from seeping out.

I’ll keep that in mind next time.
I just put 3-5 miles on it, seems ok so far. Tomorrow I’ll put a bunch on and keep checking it.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Finished about 550 of break-in and had a shop inspect it while changing the fluid. They said the pattern was good, a tad shallow, but full contact. Big thanks to @chevymitchell and @word302 for being there with advice and guidance, even when I was frustrated.
Now to find a 2-door to trade for!

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