Energizing Large Load Electrical Accessory when Engine On

[Rahneld]

Short of buying the Aux wiring kit, say you just want to energize, for example, a front winch, but only when the ignition is on.

Hooking up fused cables directly from the winch to the battery will allow the winch to operate at all times. I just want it to be able to work when the rig is on. Where do you connect the cables to.

(Not a winch, just an example.)

Thanks.

(Maybe Fuse F83, glow plug--I have a 3.6L JL)

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[ericdrob67]

Short of buying the Aux wiring kit, say you just want to energize, for example, a front winch, but only when the ignition is on.

Hooking up fused cables directly from the winch to the battery will allow the winch to operate at all times. I just want it to be able to work when the rig is on. Where do you connect the cables to.

(Not a winch, just an example.)

Thanks.

(Maybe Fuse F83, glow plug--I have a 3.6L JL)

You would need a high amperage solenoid similar to the NVX 500 i used here: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/nvx-500-battery-isolator.24571/#post-582819

Trigger for the solenoid could come from the ignition... although i would recommend an outboard switch(from ign source) to prevent a LOT of unnecessary On time.

 

[ToolMan514]

The Warn Power Interrupt Kit comes with it's own switch. I removed the switch and ran it to an AUX switch, but same principal. But to answer your question, you could tap off of fuse F45 which is the ignition power to the rear power outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQFVN8/

 

[Rahneld]

You would need a high amperage solenoid similar to the NVX 500 i used here: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/nvx-500-battery-isolator.24571/#post-582819

Trigger for the solenoid could come from the ignition... although i would recommend an outboard switch(from ign source) to prevent a LOT of unnecessary On time.

Thank you for this Eric @ericdrob67 .

If my takeaway from the linked post, if correct, is that this product is a large amperage relay, which connects the battery to the winch when the device's leads to power the relay (not the winch) become a closed circuit that is made so via a press of one of your Aux switches.

...and if so that's cool. But is there someplace to tap into within the rig, that provides such power only when the rig is cranked, thereby bypassing the need for the expensive Aux switch kit, and the cost of this product as well?

Many thanks sir.

Edit: I get now that the Aux switches are not required...

 

[Rahneld]

The Warn Power Interrupt Kit comes with it's own switch. I removed the switch and ran it to an AUX switch, but same principal. But to answer your question, you could tap off of fuse F45 which is the ignition power to the rear power outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQFVN8/

Definitely closer Tim. No Aux switch kit required, but if I could just tap a place on the rig that provides large amperage only when the rig is cranked it seems that might be cheaper

...should such a place exist and be safe to tap directly... : - )

Thanks.

 

[Rahneld]

Let me modify the question.

Is there a 60 amp box and SPST switch I can buy that can sit in my cabin, one end of the leads connect to it residing directly at the battery, and the other ends at the appliance, such that I can control current irrespective of the crank state of the rig?

..maybe something like this...although this incorporates a relay..???

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Wi...amp+switch&qid=1561730730&s=automotive&sr=1-4

 

[Rahneld]

Think I found what I was looking for in something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MYXV5LB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[ericdrob67]

Think I found what I was looking for in something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MYXV5LB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thats just a 60A breaker.... 60A is much higher than any ignition source your going to be able to find. Load on the winch circuit is going to much higher(400+ amps) than any Ignition source your going to find. Winch needs to be powered off the battery directly or using a high amperage solenoid(relay). An ignition source + can be used to trigger a relay/solenoid... IE warn or NVX.

The Warn is more costly than the NVX i mentioned earlier, IIRC its also lower amperage rated.

 

[ericdrob67]

Let me modify the question.

Is there a 60 amp box and SPST switch I can buy that can sit in my cabin, one end of the leads connect to it residing directly at the battery, and the other ends at the appliance, such that I can control current irrespective of the crank state of the rig?

..maybe something like this...although this incorporates a relay..???

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Wi...amp+switch&qid=1561730730&s=automotive&sr=1-4

No this will not work for the winch... winch load will far exceed the 60A

 

[ericdrob67]

Thank you for this Eric @ericdrob67 .

If my takeaway from the linked post, if correct, is that this product is a large amperage relay, which connects the battery to the winch when the device's leads to power the relay (not the winch) become a closed circuit that is made so via a press of one of your Aux switches.

...and if so that's cool. But is there someplace to tap into within the rig, that provides such power only when the rig is cranked, thereby bypassing the need for the expensive Aux switch kit, and the cost of this product as well?

Many thanks sir.

Edit: I get now that the Aux switches are not required...

Your take away is correct. Unfortunately there is no OEM circuits able to provide the High amperage draw that the winch requires(400+ amps usually).

The most cost effective way i found at the time was the NVX 500, about $50(price has gone up to $60 since i purchased). I used my Aux switches for triggering the solenoid, but you could use almost any simple switch connected to an Ignition source for a few dollars extra. I also used crimp on 2awg eyelets for welding from Harbor Freight and some heat shrink to tidy things up.

https://www.amazon.com/NVX-Mobile-B...words=nvx+500&qid=1561737815&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.harborfreight.com/weldi...ble-lugs-2awg-3-8-eighth-inch-stud-66820.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html

 

[Rahneld]

Your take away is correct. Unfortunately there is no OEM circuits able to provide the High amperage draw that the winch requires(400+ amps usually).

The most cost effective way i found at the time was the NVX 500, about $50(price has gone up to $60 since i purchased). I used my Aux switches for triggering the solenoid, but you could use almost any simple switch connected to an Ignition source for a few dollars extra. I also used crimp on 2awg eyelets for welding from Harbor Freight and some heat shrink to tidy things up.

https://www.amazon.com/NVX-Mobile-B...words=nvx+500&qid=1561737815&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.harborfreight.com/weldi...ble-lugs-2awg-3-8-eighth-inch-stud-66820.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html

Thank you sir. One ignorant question if I may.

I understand the amperage demand of your typical winch to be, as you say, possible in the 400's. But the inline fuse that came with my winch was, I think, a 60 amp fuse. Wouldn't that blow?

 

[Shenanigans]

A fuse at the battery on a wire connected to an aftermarket accessory is not to protect the accessory, it’s to protect the wire. Often times accessories are mounted far from a battery in a vehicle. Depending on the length of wire, you would need to use larger diameter cable/wire to carry the amperage we need since we will lose amperage over distance. You would need to place a fuse directly in front of the accessory to protect it because you would ideally have more amperage on tap than you need at the end of the line.

Long story short, fuse at the battery is to protect the wire. Fuse it for the maximum amperage that wire can carry. Any subsequent fuses downstream of that are to protect the accessory.

I’ve never ran my winches with fuses. They’ve always been direct to the battery and the run have been very short and well routed and protected from anything that can damage it.

 

[mike_b_81]

Your take away is correct. Unfortunately there is no OEM circuits able to provide the High amperage draw that the winch requires(400+ amps usually).

The most cost effective way i found at the time was the NVX 500, about $50(price has gone up to $60 since i purchased). I used my Aux switches for triggering the solenoid, but you could use almost any simple switch connected to an Ignition source for a few dollars extra. I also used crimp on 2awg eyelets for welding from Harbor Freight and some heat shrink to tidy things up.

https://www.amazon.com/NVX-Mobile-B...words=nvx+500&qid=1561737815&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.harborfreight.com/weldi...ble-lugs-2awg-3-8-eighth-inch-stud-66820.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html

So, I just purchased a winch and relay based on what I have been reading through these posts. My question is which of the posts on the relay does the aux wire hook into? The one that indicates on the diagram leading to the ignition would be my guess, so in your picture, it's the one by the fender. I hope to have my winch and relay next week then get them installed quickly as I leave for Colorado on Saturday. Thanks.

 

[ericdrob67]

The two large posts on the solenoid are for the + battery in and + battery out, the smaller post on the mounting bracket side is for the + trigger(aux switch or what ever switch with a + source) to activate relay. small post opposite of mounting bracket is - ground to chassis.

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