E torque have start/stop aux battery?

[Fiteacher]

The secondary 48volt etorque battery under your Jeep has an 8 year/80k mile warranty.
It is generally considered not serviceable by the end user. It’s most likely your 12 volt main battery is the issue especially if you still have the factory original battery.

Yep, still factory original. I'll just replace it then.

Thanks for confirming. Sometimes the threads are confusing between the etorque and ess versions.

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[Jtphoto]

From personal observations, each time the weather get colder than 5f the start/stop will just not work. All functions continue to work ok but start/stop just don't. Even if I drive for two hours on the highway soon that I get to a stop my start stop will become not ready instead of engaging. If the next day it get warmer after reaching operating temperature all good.
No check engine or code. This is being goings since new and I'm now in winter number two. This why I say it does not like cold.

The start/stop is programmed not to work below a certain temperature but that doesn’t mean the e-torque is not doing its primary job.

 

[Kracka]

So there’s only the main battery to change when one needs to replace the battery if I have the etorque?

Just double checking because I’m getting the “aux switches unavailable battery charging” pop up on start.

I have a 21 JLUR with etorque at just over 28k miles. Guessing it’s time to replace. Just want to verify whether it I need to replace 1 or 2 batteries on the etorque.

Thanks!

Just one battery to replace. The eTorque system uses a single 12V battery. We had ours replaced this week under warranty due to the same aux switch error message.

2023 Wrangler Rubicon 3.6 eTorque w/27k miles

Quality 94R/H7 replacement batteries can be had for ~$170. I'd personally suggest ACDelco based on my personal experiences in various Jeeps & Corvettes.

 

[Pape]

The start/stop is programmed not to work below a certain temperature but that doesn’t mean the e-torque is not doing its primary job.

Well the purpose of E-torque is about smooth start / stop. Technically it tell you when it is too cold, I did see the message even when in stop mode, it will start the engine and tell you engine too cold as the reason.

 

[Jtphoto]

Well the purpose of E-torque is about smooth start / stop. Technically it tell you when it is too cold, I did see the message even when in stop mode, it will start the engine and tell you engine too cold as the reason.

Actually the job of the E Torque is torque assist for starting from a stop whether or not the engine is running or not and for higher torque demand situations such as towing or driving up steep hills etc. it’s not just there for auto start/stop. It’s called a mild hybrid system which is apparently good enough that Toyota has copied it in their new Landcruiser and 4Runner.

 

[Pape]

Actually the job of the E Torque is torque assist for starting from a stop whether or not the engine is running or not and for higher torque demand situations such as towing or driving up steep hills etc. it’s not just there for auto start/stop. It’s called a mild hybrid system which is apparently good enough that Toyota has copied it in their new Landcruiser and 4Runner.

Ok, yes, e-torque have more than just start stop. As per my understanding other e-torque function are very limited as it will not deliver any torque passed 2000 RPM and therefore only other thing left it the regenerative breaking and the speed match shifting.

In regard to copy by Toyota, I have the feeling they just did like Stelantis did and buy the system from a 3rd party company.

Here this guy did a nice reverse engineering job on it.

 

[RedHeadMama]

Interesting. I’ve not experienced that but I’m not surprised. If I back out of the garage and head for the road to stop while I wait for traffic, the engine won’t shut off. Same for going a quarter mile down the road to the first stop sign. The vehicle doesn’t go through auto start/stop cycles until the engine is up to operating temperature. I believe there’s a message that displays in the information center telling the driver “auto start/stop disable not up to operating temperature”. It only makes sense because a hot engine produces less emissions than and engine still warming up. Obviously there’s a threshold where you disable the system to be able to provide creature comforts inside the passenger cabin. Also cranking amps increase when the temperature goes down. Stopping the auto start stop saves battery power at a time when critical battery power may be needed to restart the vehicle.

does the 48v power anything but the start/stop? Is there a work around if it dies? I am not a huge fan of the start/stop so I usually disengage it anyways, but I want to make sure it doesn't power anything else. Replacing it needs to wait a bit, but I don't want to get stranded either.

 

[Pape]

does the 48v power anything but the start/stop? Is there a work around if it dies? I am not a huge fan of the start/stop so I usually disengage it anyways, but I want to make sure it doesn't power anything else. Replacing it needs to wait a bit, but I don't want to get stranded either.

Technically the 48v should not die. The standard starter is 12v therefore as long as you have a working engine you can charge the 48v. For sure there is added complexity and additional part who can go wrong. I guess behind the scenes question is: can the dc to dc converters work to charge the 12v system even if the 48v is done for. I do not know but would for sure want to know also.

 

[Jtphoto]

The generator system works different than the alternator on a regular 12v system. I’m not sure that the generator can work properly without the 48v to accept its charge.

 

[KHR Racing]

Side note………. On my wife’s 22 e torque, the factory 12 v battery did not last even six months before it crapped out. Then I purchased the odyssey battery which lasted a little over two years. Just recently I replaced it with a full throttle much bigger battery.

 

[RedHeadMama]

Technically the 48v should not die. The standard starter is 12v therefore as long as you have a working engine you can charge the 48v. For sure there is added complexity and additional part who can go wrong. I guess behind the scenes question is: can the dc to dc converters work to charge the 12v system even if the 48v is done for. I do not know but would for sure want to know also.

so, I was getting start/stop warnings, then all kinds of other warnings started to pop up and go back off randomly. Finally came to a point my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree while doing 70 on the freeway. We were thinking auxillary battery, and sadly attempted to replace it coming from both the top and the bottom only to find the empty box. This led to learning about then48v battery. We replaced the main battery and haven't had any lights since. I have 108,000 miles. Should my 48v still be good to go?

 

[Pape]

so, I was getting start/stop warnings, then all kinds of other warnings started to pop up and go back off randomly. Finally came to a point my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree while doing 70 on the freeway. We were thinking auxillary battery, and sadly attempted to replace it coming from both the top and the bottom only to find the empty box. This led to learning about then48v battery. We replaced the main battery and haven't had any lights since. I have 108,000 miles. Should my 48v still be good to go?

Forvall intend and purpose the 48v is essentially a EV battery. It is control, maintain, cool and warranty as one. If the 48v go bad you will get a light in the dash. Good news it is warranty for 10 years.

 

[Wbino]

Side note………. On my wife’s 22 e torque, the factory 12 v battery did not last even six months before it crapped out. Then I purchased the odyssey battery which lasted a little over two years. Just recently I replaced it with a full throttle much bigger battery.

I have the original 12v battery in my 2021 etorque with 33k miles.

 

[pfletcher229648]

2022 JLUR with eTorque. Really didn’t know what the eTorque was when I ordered their steal front Rubcion but all in all very satisfied with it. The main 12v did die at around two years and they replaced it under warranty. If the main goes again I will review options to replace it with something.

As everyone has already stated the start/stop is a disaster and my muscle memory now turns it off 98% of the time when getting in and starting.

 

[Georog]

So does anyone know if the “extra” battery in the E-torque system can cause problems when trying to keep the primary (12v) battery on a battery tender? I’m out of town for extended periods, so like to keep trickle chargers on the vehicle batteries while gone. Have been getting a fault on the battery tender supposedly indicating a short or bad battery. The battery is only 3 months old and checks out fine at the dealer.

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