Drag link hitting tie rod help?

[stretch-bsn]

So I have a
Mammoth HD Drag Link (18-24 Jeep Wrangler JL)

And a Mevotech tie rod. Both have about 1000 miles on them (by me I purchased new) so basically brand new.

my drag link slumps down and rests on my tie rod.

everything is torqued correctly and I’ve greased all the zerks before driving so everything is lubed up.

what’s going on? And I’ve got a huge trip to Moab planned (over 2000 miles one way and I’m driving) am I good to drive like that? Pictures of what I’m talking about….

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[Roky]

So I have a
Mammoth HD Drag Link (18-24 Jeep Wrangler JL)

And a Mevotech tie rod. Both have about 1000 miles on them (by me I purchased new) so basically brand new.

my drag link slumps down and rests on my tie rod.

everything is torqued correctly and I’ve greased all the zerks before driving so everything is lubed up.

what’s going on? And I’ve got a huge trip to Moab planned (over 2000 miles one way and I’m driving) am I good to drive like that? Pictures of what I’m talking about….

I’m not familiar with that brand, but it’s been my experience that some of the cheaper drag links and tie rods don’t come with any anti-flop mechanisms…… they are supposed to be able rotate a little so they don’t bind when turning and articulating…Maybe reach out to Mammoth and see if they have any suggestions…

 

[Camaroboi13]

If I’m honest, looking at all the poor quality of that stuff I’d put the stock components back on. Both look like they’ve got very poor craftsmanship in them. Even your sway bar end links look like they’re booger welded together. Not trying to knock your stuff by any means, but safety should come first and I wouldn’t trust any of those parts banging around on the rocks. They were cheap for a reason. Buy once, cry once.

 

[stretch-bsn]

If I’m honest, looking at all the poor quality of that stuff I’d put the stock components back on. Both look like they’ve got very poor craftsmanship in them. Even your sway bar end links look like they’re booger welded together. Not trying to knock your stuff by any means, but safety should come first and I wouldn’t trust any of those parts banging around on the rocks. They were cheap for a reason. Buy once, cry once.

lol the sway bar links are off a stock rubicon XR.

I don’t have the stock components or I would put them back on. Just seems odd this happens with less than 1500 miles and only 2 wheeling trips. The tie rods…although cheap are holding up well so far.

 

[Camaroboi13]

lol the sway bar links are off a stock rubicon XR.

I don’t have the stock components or I would put them back on. Just seems odd this happens with less than 1500 miles and only 2 wheeling trips. The tie rods…although cheap are holding up well so far.

That’s crazy, some of the worst looking end links I’ve ever seen and they came off a stock Jeep in its highest off road trim level. That should tell you something about Stellantis

It doesn’t seem odd to me when looking at the craftsmanship of those parts. They literally look like a man made them in his garage, nothing like what the larger companies would put out. There may be cheaper options out there, but when it comes to my steering system I have no compromise for quality. If my family is in my truck it for damn sure better do what I ask of it. MetalCloak had the best track record for what I needed, and nothing comes close to touching.

 

[stretch-bsn]

That’s crazy, some of the worst looking end links I’ve ever seen and they came off a stock Jeep in its highest off road trim level. That should tell you something about Stellantis

It doesn’t seem odd to me when looking at the craftsmanship of those parts. They literally look like a man made them in his garage, nothing like what the larger companies would put out. There may be cheaper options out there, but when it comes to my steering system I have no compromise for quality. If my family is in my truck it for damn sure better do what I ask of it. MetalCloak had the best track record for what I needed, and nothing comes close to touching.

lol yeah man definitely kind of crazy. I agree I could weld them better with my little mig 110.

I also agree with but once cry once and I kind of get what I pay for but dang this is bad!

I spent so much on doing an axle swap with my sport (did it all myself with a buddy but buying the axles killed me) I didn’t have the funds left over for those parts (just a rookie mistake as it’s my first jeep build). So now I’m in the position of trying to figure things out best I can. I’d love to throw some metalcloak parts in but I’m just not there.

if I’m forced to get one before I go I’m looking at this….

RockJock Currectlync Heavy Duty Drag Link



any idea on these for quality? Again…I know it’s not metalcloak but I’m robbing Peter to pay Paul at this point.

 

[Camaroboi13]

I wouldn’t hesitate to use Rock Jock stuff. Apex is good stuff too. Aside from those three brands, maybe Rusty’s but I’m having issues with their springs right now after 2 years so I can’t guarantee longevity yet. But yeah, definitely get something to replace those two things when you can. The Metalcloak tie rod also has a pretty good sized bend in the links to clear the drag link. I can’t speak for any other companies but I’m sure most who actually build good stuff are going to have the same results.

 

[stretch-bsn]

Cool. I got a call into a local 4x4 shop that didn’t an alignment for me recently….I sent them some pictures and a video to get their input. I don’t think it was hitting before they had it. And it looks like the bar might be about 1” longer on the wheel side since they got it …

 

[GATORB8]

@stretch-bsn Point the bend on the draglink forward. If you didn't have an issue with the tiny bit of steering off center that may cause before, it should be fine now.

I would however balance off the thread exposure, unless the rod ends are extremely long or it says to take the width out of the knuckle side.

If you are comfortable with the thread showing, simply loosen the two pinch bolts, rotate the drag link body forward/up, and tighten them back down.

 

[GATORB8]

I’m not familiar with that brand, but it’s been my experience that some of the cheaper drag links and tie rods don’t come with any anti-flop mechanisms…… they are supposed to be able rotate a little so they don’t bind when turning and articulating…Maybe reach out to Mammoth and see if they have any suggestions…

I'd assume that's exactly what happened. It look all clear when the tech tightened it down, but the "flop" dropped it far enough.

When it's "fixed", just push down on that angled section to rotate the ball joint until it stops and make sure it clears at that position, if not, adjust the angled section further up.

I wouldn't doubt it ends up riding in the drooped position due to the additional weight on that side of the axis (I guess that's what you'd call the straight line between the knuckle mount and the pitman arm).

 

[stretch-bsn]

@stretch-bsn Point the bend on the draglink forward. If you didn't have an issue with the tiny bit of steering off center that may cause before, it should be fine now.

I would however balance off the thread exposure, unless the rod ends are extremely long or it says to take the width out of the knuckle side.

If you are comfortable with the thread showing, simply loosen the two pinch bolts, rotate the drag link body forward, and tighten them back down.

This is what I was thinking! The adjustment is just too far out on the knuckle side and the pinch nut is possibly not tight enough. I’m going to mess with it and see if that fixes it. I know there is some flop but it feels firm so I’m thinking/hoping that will do the trick!

 

[stretch-bsn]

I'd assume that's exactly what happened. It look all clear when the tech tightened it down, but the "flop" dropped it far enough.

When it's "fixed", just push down on that angled section to rotate the ball joint until it stops and make sure it clears at that position, if not, adjust the angled section further up.

I wouldn't doubt it ends up riding in the drooped position due to the additional weight on that side of the axis (I guess that's what you'd call the straight line between the knuckle mount and the pitman arm).

yeah that makes sense too….because when I had it adjusted I wasn’t running into this problem but now that they’ve readjusted it it’s hitting.

 

[Nvdardx28]

During the adjustment you need to hold the bent part of the draglink forward while tightening the jam nuts to hold it in place. I just recently adjusted mine and had my drag link propped up by a 2x4 during that process. Without it propped it my drag link would rest on the tie-rod.

 

[stretch-bsn]

So I got it all squared away….i readjusted it so it was more even on each side…now it’s about 2-3/4 top and bottom instead of 2.5” pitman arm and 3.5” at the knuckle.

Also angled it up so even in its “resting” or droop it’s still a good distance away from the tie rod. I went ahead and regressed and it looks to me like the dang boot is torn! It didn’t come out while I was filling it but took it for a test drive and look…. Doesn’t that look like it’s coming out of the middle of the dang boot! I just want to be done with it at this point. Last thing I want to do is try to smack out that end without messing up the bushing…I had to use a pickle fork last time and destroyed the stock one.

Thoughts?

 

[GATORB8]

So I got it all squared away….i readjusted it so it was more even on each side…now it’s about 2-3/4 top and bottom instead of 2.5” pitman arm and 3.5” at the knuckle.

Also angled it up so even in its “resting” or droop it’s still a good distance away from the tie rod. I went ahead and regressed and it looks to me like the dang boot is torn! It didn’t come out while I was filling it but took it for a test drive and look…. Doesn’t that look like it’s coming out of the middle of the dang boot! I just want to be done with it at this point. Last thing I want to do is try to smack out that end without messing up the bushing…I had to use a pickle fork last time and destroyed the stock one.

Thoughts?

There are overflow slits in the side of some BJ boots. I wouldn't freak out until you clean it up.

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