Different Tie Rod As Good As MC?

[CarbonSteel]

Background--after upgrading to the full MC lift kit and all suspension pieces, the tie rod ends lightly rubbed on the inner rim at full lock on the OEM wheels. After discussing with MC, they attributed it to manufacturing tolerances on the FCA side of the house and they had only seen a few instances of it (lucky me). I attempted to adjust the steering stops, but there was not enough adjustment to compensate, so I installed a set of spacers which fixed it and when I upgraded my wheels, I chose 0 offset which is the same as the +44 offset OEM wheels and a 1.75" spacer.

Fast forward and I am considering replacing my wheels and tires and really like the look of the 392 XR beadlocks and like the OEM cap design (snap in) versus the bolt on caps for many brands of wheels. Obviously, those are +44 and I could potentially have the rubbing issue, though I have replaced the OEM aluminum steering knuckles with steel Mojave's and replaced the ball joints with Dynatracs so I may have compensated for the manufacturing tolerance issues and the rubbing may not occur, but I will not know until I install OEM wheels again.

Rather than "wait and see" I wanted to ask what everyone recommends as a different tie-rod brand that is as good as MC. Not really a super fan of Synergy, but would entertain it.

What else is out there? TIA!

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[Omen]

Maybe this.

https://rockkrawler.com/pro-x-tie-rod-jl-jlu-jt-rubicon-and-wide-track-axles

Omen

 

[Rodeoflyer]

I'll be honest I don't care for Metalcloak. Rockjock makes parts that are bulletproof as does Steersmarts. I would look at aluminum from RPM before MC.

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-442100-101

https://www.rpmsteering.com/jeep-jl-steering-upgrade.html

 

[Headbarcode]

I'll be honest I don't care for Metalcloak. Rockjock makes parts that are bulletproof as does Steersmarts. I would look at aluminum from RPM before MC.

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-442100-101

https://www.rpmsteering.com/jeep-jl-steering-upgrade.html

I used to have the Steersmarts tie rod and drag link, which was 1-5/8" not including the clamps. I now have the RPM Performance linkages, which are 2" and a lot stronger, but dont have pinch bolts and clamps to snag on other underbits.

I really liked what I saw at the Jeep Invasion RockJock booth, where I also had a long talk with John Currie about his new front end components. They are all purposely designed to work as a system, so if I was starting from scratch, I'd go that route. Their new tie rod and drag link are designed around the high steer knuckles. Very similar to their Antirocks that benefit the most when doing front and rear, their front end makes the most sense if going with the whole magilla..

 

[Rodeoflyer]

John Curries a legend. I think his son runs rock jock separately but yeah, I’m a huge fan of anything the Currie team engineers. They design solid parts built to work and last.

Can’t go wrong with steersmarts as well. You’ll never hear anything negative about their parts.

I believe RPM is truly top shelf as well. Perhaps the best you can buy!

Those would be my top two/three choices when I hit the buy button on aftermarket steering.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Thanks guys for the suggestions! For clarity, nothing wrong with the MC (aside from the rubbing) and they use 1 ton ends so it is very heavy duty.

I do not really want to run spacers if I can help it, but I do see other manufacturers with notes on their website about backspacing on wheels so perhaps this is more common than I thought.

But I am digging those 392 XR beadlocks...

 

[chadk77]

Background--after upgrading to the full MC lift kit and all suspension pieces, the tie rod ends lightly rubbed on the inner rim at full lock on the OEM wheels. After discussing with MC, they attributed it to manufacturing tolerances on the FCA side of the house and they had only seen a few instances of it (lucky me). I attempted to adjust the steering stops, but there was not enough adjustment to compensate, so I installed a set of spacers which fixed it and when I upgraded my wheels, I chose 0 offset which is the same as the +44 offset OEM wheels and a 1.75" spacer.

Fast forward and I am considering replacing my wheels and tires and really like the look of the 392 XR beadlocks and like the OEM cap design (snap in) versus the bolt on caps for many brands of wheels. Obviously, those are +44 and I could potentially have the rubbing issue, though I have replaced the OEM aluminum steering knuckles with steel Mojave's and replaced the ball joints with Dynatracs so I may have compensated for the manufacturing tolerance issues and the rubbing may not occur, but I will not know until I install OEM wheels again.

Rather than "wait and see" I wanted to ask what everyone recommends as a different tie-rod brand that is as good as MC. Not really a super fan of Synergy, but would entertain it.

What else is out there? TIA!

How much rubbing are we talking about? Significant? or....enough that you could shave off a little of the tie rod ends to eliminate the issue?

 

[CarbonSteel]

How much rubbing are we talking about? Significant? or....enough that you could shave off a little of the tie rod ends to eliminate the issue?

My memory is terrible, but I remember it hitting the wheel weights one side and the edge of the rim on the other at full lock. I was changing my wheels at the time from stock Rubicon to Willys so I added the spacers.

To your point, I think (given the other changes that have been made on my suspension) that I may just go for the wheels and see what happens, then determine if grinding a bit will give the clearance needed.

 

[chadk77]

My memory is terrible, but I remember it hitting the wheel weights one side and the edge of the rim on the other at full lock. I was changing my wheels at the time from stock Rubicon to Willys so I added the spacers.

To your point, I think (given the other changes that have been made on my suspension) that I may just go for the wheels and see what happens, then determine if grinding a bit will give the clearance needed.

That's what I would do. You could always try beads if it's just hitting the wheel weights.

 

[GATORB8]

@CarbonSteel

To the best of my knowledge (which means what I've seen here) the XR wheels are NOT +44. They are 17x8s with 5" of BS, which is +13mm.

Note, I believe you are correct with the NON XR 392 wheels.

 

[CarbonSteel]

@CarbonSteel

To the best of my knowledge (which means what I've seen here) the XR wheels are NOT +44. They are 17x8s with 5" of BS, which is +13mm.

Note, I believe you are correct with the NON XR 392 wheels.

Ah...even better! I had assumed the XR's were also +44. +13 means problem solved out of the gate as 21 mm would be about 13/16" additional clearance.

Thanks for that!

 

[SparkleTooth]

I have the Doetsch Tie Rod and Drag Link, and its pretty beefy. No complaints.

 

[GATORB8]

Ah...even better! I had assumed the XR's were also +44. +13 means problem solved out of the gate as 21 mm would be about 13/16" additional clearance.

Thanks for that!

Hopefully you'll be good. I've got about 10k with +18mms and the MC Tie Rod with no issues.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Hopefully you'll be good. I've got about 10k with +18mms and the MC Tie Rod with no issues.

It should be--though I see the difference, it is the non-XR wheels that I really like (from a style perspective), but the XR's are good too provided I can find them at a good price.

 

[GATORB8]

It should be--though I see the difference, it is the non-XR wheels that I really like (from a style perspective), but the XR's are good too provided I can find them at a good price.

Check out the Mopar beadlocks, too. I think those are the basis for the XRs.

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