DEATH WOBBLE INFORMATION

[silverooby]

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[Speed331]

you are right on track about trackbar bushings. 1st upgrade should've been the most heavy duty trackbar

A large part of the issue is all the stock tubes linking the suspension are light weight, hollow tubing. This creates a very wide range of resonance within the system - it wants to ring like a huge bell. Thats what the stabilizer really helps dampen. Replacing any of those with a solid steel component will really reduce any resonance in the system - the track bar being the #1 choice.
I was getting DW under very specific conditions when I had less the 15k miles on my '20 2 door. Found the track bar bolts had come untorqued and the bushing ovaled out. Replaced it with a heavy duty solid steel track bar and not only solved the DW issue, but it also lessens the vibrations that come through the wheel when hitting sharp bumps at speed.
I would also go aftermarket with the stabilizer as well. I'm running the AEV/Bilstien one and it really tightend up the stearing 'feel', as well as soaking up the smaller road chatter.

85k on mine now and nary a shimmy since....

 

[autotragic]

The factory stabilizer is undersized for the vehicle. This leads to it failing early and often. Normal solid axle drivetrain vibrations and oscillations combined with even moderate tire wear will cause it to fail quickly. We've especially seen these fail very commonly on the 4XEs due to their heavier weight combined with 20" wheels.

I strongly suggest upgrading to a properly sized dampener to avoid this happening in the future. Just because it's covered under warranty and "free" doesn't mean it's worth the risk of continuing to use it. MSRP of these things is like $40. They're dirt cheap for a reason.

If you shake the front end down and nothing is obviously wrong do not try chasing it further than just replacing the dampener. This is an unbelievably common problem on the JL.

Putting a Fox stabilizer on my Jeep instead of another OEM made a world of difference. There is no way anybody should ever replace a bad OEM damper with another trash OEM damper.

Steering went from a sloppy mess to rock solid. I don't buy the whole "it mask the real problem" horse shit anymore. You absolutely need a working stabilizer with the factory suspension/steering components. It's too sloppy and has too much play in it which is why they included one in the first place. Now if you replace everything with high quality aftermarket stuff that takes all the slop and play out of the system then maybe. But the factory suspension and steering systems are not okay without a stabilizer. The difference was absolutely irrefutable.

 

[alphawolff]

To be honest, only happened one time.......THAT WAS ENUF FOR ME!!
Tech said that the stabilizer was jerky through the stroke in and out and replaced it! Jury still out!!
My issue is why the T.S.B. replacement part # to install (CCUKV411AA)out of said box is the same as the one, parts guy pulled out of stock, off the shelf. Just in a different box. I've been on the horn with Jeep, to get an answer why the sleight of hand with the parts and the band aid fix!! I haven't gotten anywhere, yet!

Personally Im pointing my finger at the Panhard bar bushings and the under size metric bolts attaching the panhard bar to the frame and axle. Would be a cheep fix with urethane and new bolts!! Going to tackle that repair and see! Probably cure the whole thing on stock suspension!

PANHARD bar is setting everythig in motion in reguards to the geometry of the steering.

Main reason for the post was to supply infomation and extended warranty about the T.S.B that is out there and the DEALERS are being tight lipped about!!

Brother please just upgrade your dampener like we suggested. Save yourself the headache.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

The stabilizer just masks the underlying problem, and your dealer won't diagnose what the underlying problem is and they won't fix it either.

The stabilizer can mask the problem if something else is the root cause. That said, a bad stabilizer can be the root cause all on its own.

 

[Upnarms]

If you upgrade the dampener, get a through shaft one. Very true it can make the steering feel tighter, more precise. I had a right pull from when my rubicon was new. The dealer couldn't resolve it after a week. A couple years later, a through shaft dampener, and that did it. For some reason the factory one (and the fox one was even worse) weren't as neutral as they should be and caused the pull. Ts dampner really changed the feel of the steering.

 

[Nash_Dj]

Had a very bad DW developed returning home to Vancouver from Tuktoyaktuk last summer. It would "pop-up" at very random speeds both on unpaved and later paved surfaces, but always hitting the uneven pavement with one of the front wheels only. Even dips or bumps on the road hitting with both front wheels would not cause it. I had only IronMan 4x4 2" lift done at that time and my OEM LT255/75R17 Firestone Destination tires had around 60,000km.

Stopped at one dealer in Northern BC, they tested it and told me that everything is fine, but they suspected the tires needed a replacement (they were fairly worn out, but still had threads and without any visible deformations/damage). They happened to have the OEM tire replacements, I opted to get them, so I can return home safe and presto (!), I am at over 90,000km atm and haven't had any DW since... They did the wheels alignment just in case, but told me it was not needed, as the numbers were still well within properly adjusted...

Aside from the cost of the new tires, they did not charge me any additional cost.

I realize everyone's experience is different, however this was mine, and I was pleasantly surprised the infamous Death Wobble was resolved so easy (again, in my case).

Good luck to those who need to fight this unpleasant and scarry/dangerous issue...

 

[alphawolff]

Had a very bad DW developed returning home to Vancouver from Tuktoyaktuk last summer. It would "pop-up" at very random speeds both on unpaved and later paved surfaces, but always hitting the uneven pavement with one of the front wheels only. Even dips or bumps on the road hitting with both front wheels would not cause it. I had only IronMan 4x4 2" lift done at that time and my OEM LT255/75R17 Firestone Destination tires had around 60,000km.

Stopped at one dealer in Northern BC, they tested it and told me that everything is fine, but they suspected the tires needed a replacement (they were fairly worn out, but still had threads and without any visible deformations/damage). They happened to have the OEM tire replacements, I opted to get them, so I can return home safe and presto (!), I am at over 90,000km atm and haven't had any DW since... They did the wheels alignment just in case, but told me it was not needed, as the numbers were still well within properly adjusted...

Aside from the cost of the new tires, they did not charge me any additional cost.

I realize everyone's experience is different, however this was mine, and I was pleasantly surprised the infamous Death Wobble was resolved so easy (again, in my case).

Good luck to those who need to fight this unpleasant and scarry/dangerous issue...

A failing dampener means that it can no longer deal with the normal vibrations/oscillations of the vehicle. Current running theory is worn tires is the primary cause of the early dampener failure and coinciding death wobble.

In other words your weak dampener was allowing the tires to cause a death wobble. As your new tires wear the issue will return. I would suggest replacing your dampener at your earliest convenience.

 

[Nash_Dj]

A failing dampener means that it can no longer deal with the normal vibrations/oscillations of the vehicle. Current running theory is worn tires is the primary cause of the early dampener failure and coinciding death wobble.

In other words your weak dampener was allowing the tires to cause a death wobble. As your new tires wear the issue will return. I would suggest replacing your dampener at your earliest convenience.

Interesting... Thank you very much, will have the service check it for sure, it is still under warranty...

 

[Speed331]

Interesting... Thank you very much, will have the service check it for sure, it is still under warranty...

Go aftermarket for the dampner. The stock one is barely up to the job and any good aftermarket one will also improve the steering 'feel' as a bonus. AEV sells a good one for ~ $100. Or even spend a bit more for a through shaft design to be sure of even 'pull' from both sides.

 

[Upnarms]

Go aftermarket for the dampner. The stock one is barely up to the job and any good aftermarket one will also improve the steering 'feel' as a bonus. AEV sells a good one for ~ $100. Or even spend a bit more for a through shaft design to be sure of even 'pull' from both sides.

This

 

[tk1700]

Go aftermarket for the dampner. The stock one is barely up to the job and any good aftermarket one will also improve the steering 'feel' as a bonus. AEV sells a good one for ~ $100. Or even spend a bit more for a through shaft design to be sure of even 'pull' from both sides.

I put the Rancho RS7MT on my 2019JLU 400 miles ago and it's a huge improvement, for less than $100. Put same on 2021 JLUR last night but haven't driven it yet. Part number RS77420.

 

[alphawolff]

Go aftermarket for the dampner. The stock one is barely up to the job and any good aftermarket one will also improve the steering 'feel' as a bonus. AEV sells a good one for ~ $100. Or even spend a bit more for a through shaft design to be sure of even 'pull' from both sides.

This. The stock OEM one is trash and it will continue to be trash. Pick any aftermarket option, it doesn't matter which. Anything is better than the stock OEM. Even the ones from the gladiator or 392 are a major improvement if you want to keep it "stock".

 

[NASCAR97]

An update on my wobble issue........

Replaced Panhard bar, Drag Link, Tie Rod with Steer Smarts Yeti brand pro bushings
WOW, WOW, WOW, I HAVE A NEW JEEP!!!! Smooth as a Caddie!! Responsive as a Lambo!!!

Did notice something very interesting when I took the stock steering stabilizer off Tho. On one end, the steel sleeve in the bushing matches the bolt diameter and is the same inside diameter all the way thru. The other end has a step shoulder on the inside of the steel sleeve that matches the bolt for about a quarter of the sleeve and the rest is "quessing" at least 0.050" bigger for the rest of the remaining sleeve!!!!!! BOLT SURE WALLERS AROUND IN THE HOLE!!

Reply from part manager at dealer........... Wait for it..........Wow that's weird!!! DEALERS what can I say!!

And every joint but one in the steering components were frozen and only moved in one direction back and forth not in a circular arch. Worse ones were on the passenger side. O.B.T.W. Dealer said everything was good on front suspension!!

Glad to have a safe Jeep back........Thanks to all that helped with info.

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