Can't decide between two lift options

[TEAMSLO]

I say if there is a total setup that you want but just slightly past your budget, just give it a bit more time to save. You'll be much happier getting what you want in the long run. But I get it, it's tough to wait when there is an option you could get now.

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[Stuboy71]

I was looking at the same two kits but haven't pulled the trigger either way. A couple of things that I noticed when comparing them:

1. From what I have read, most people seem to agree that a new driveshaft isn't required for a 2.5" MC lift. Once you step up to 3.5" of lift, the consensus seems to be that it is time to replace the DS. Considering you indicated your at the beginner skill level, you may want to save the cost of the DS and invest in some armor or a winch, if you don't already have it.

2. The Clayton Offroad lift has some wheel offset language that you may want to pay attention to depending on what wheels you have.

3. MC seems to be more geared to rock climbing while Clayton seems to be overlanding. That is just my take and others may disagree with me.

4. Both seem to make it easy for you to upgrade as your abilities increase.

Most of the people that I wheel with have Metalcloak and swear by it. That being said, both seem to be top tier manufacturer's (along with some others) that I don't think you can go wrong with.

Also, don't discount what your rig can do in stock form. I have taken my stock '21 JLUR to southern Colorado, Uwharrie, Hawk's Pride, Windrock, Stoney Lonesome, etc. and run 80-90% of the trails the lifted guys do. While there are definitely some trails I won't run, I am more limited by skill than the vehicle.

Good luck on making the decision and let us know what you decide.

 

[Roky]

1. From what I have read, most people seem to agree that a new driveshaft isn't required for a 2.5" MC lift. Once you step up to 3.5" of lift, the consensus seems to be that it is time to replace the DS. Considering you indicated your at the beginner skill level, you may want to save the cost of the DS and invest in some armor or a winch, if you don't already have it.

The MC lift, both 2.5” and 3.5” lifts have essentially the same free length springs, only about a 1/4” difference. The extended length of the shocks is what determines the need for DS….. Since the Rocksports are sold and used in both lift heights you can need a DS with the 2.5” lift as well as the 3.5”……be careful what you decide to believe on the interweb, there’s a lot of misinterpreted information out there……

 

[GATORB8]

The MC lift, both 2.5” and 3.5” lifts have essentially the same free length springs, only about a 1/4” difference. The extended length of the shocks is what determines the need for DS….. Since the Rocksports are sold and used in both lift heights you can need a DS with the 2.5” lift as well as the 3.5”……be careful what you decide to believe on the interweb, there’s a lot of misinterpreted information out there……

Yup, even the longer SP2 3.3s are running the ragged edge of needing a new driveshaft at 28.5”. I scrubbed the stock slip boot on the trans skid just under that length.

 

[DaMaDo]

This is great advice everyone- I really appreciate the help.

I think I’m good initially with the rocksport shocks since they seem to be great value and the trails I’ve been running with the groups here have me at 5 mph most of the time with a max of 15 mph.
One of my reasons for the upgrade also is slightly more technical trails that go through old train tunnels and water crossings (sometimes both at the same time). They recommend at least 35s with 2.5” lift.

If i start doing faster trails I could upgrade to the SP2 3.3. Having that as a separate future purchase also makes it easier.

Good call about possible Memorial Day sale from MC. I’ll consider the rock krawler also, esp since NR sells it and they have great discounts sometimes. Would the MC rocksport shocks go will with rock krawler?

 

[GATORB8]

This is great advice everyone- I really appreciate the help.

I think I’m good initially with the rocksport shocks since they seem to be great value and the trails I’ve been running with the groups here have me at 5 mph most of the time with a max of 15 mph.
One of my reasons for the upgrade also is slightly more technical trails that go through old train tunnels and water crossings (sometimes both at the same time). They recommend at least 35s with 2.5” lift.

If i start doing faster trails I could upgrade to the SP2 3.3. Having that as a separate future purchase also makes it easier.

Good call about possible Memorial Day sale from MC. I’ll consider the rock krawler also, esp since NR sells it and they have great discounts sometimes. Would the MC rocksport shocks go will with rock krawler?

What are your current wheel specs?

You don't need to wait for a sale, NR forum code is JLWRANGLERFORUMS

Although they are both fine options, and so is RK. I'd almost recommend starting out slower. You 100% do not need to drop $4k on suspension to enjoy the trails you are talking about. Although piecing the right kit together long term is marginally more expensive, you could run a pretty basic 2.5 and shocks at this point. The MC/RK vs Clayton decision becomes much easier when you know exactly what you are trying to accomplish.

 

[ColonelSanders]

I’m running the MC 2.5 with rock sport reds and stock driveshaft. Been great on road and around Moab. I’m running 35s, but if I was going 37s I’d go with the 3.5” lift and better driveshaft.

 

[azjl#3]

i ran metalcloak springs at that lift, ended being closer to 4, never settled even loaded. Road outstanding with LCAs also from metalcloak, and oddly, entry level terraflex shocks drove like a dream.

 

[Roky]

The Rock Krawler recommendations combined with the Northridge discounts has made me look a bit more in that direction...

How would the kit in the link below compare to the MC GC?

They are aluminum so lighter, and it seems these have the ability to adjust without removing the arms.
Downside is they aren't maintenance free, but I do have a grease gun....

With the discount, it comes in right at my budget.

Rock Krawler 2.5in X Factor Pro Aluminum Stage 1 Lift Kit w/ RRD Shocks|Northridge4x4

This kit is maintenance free, except for the front track bar frame side joint….its cheaper, but doesn’t come with a rear adjustable track bar, but the rear relocation bracket should center your rear axle pretty close on the 2.5” lift…... The main (only) difference between this kit and the MC GC is the MC will have a couple inches more droop due to the longer rocksport shocks, otherwise apples to apples pretty much, both are the best available, top of the food chain……imo……

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...nture-x-mid-arm-lift-kit-stage-1-w-rrd-shocks

 

[DaMaDo]

This kit is maintenance free, except for the front track bar frame side joint….its cheaper, but doesn’t come with a rear adjustable track bar, but the rear relocation bracket should center your rear axle pretty close on the 2.5” lift…... The main (only) difference between this kit and the MC GC is the MC will have a couple inches more droop due to the longer rocksport shocks, otherwise apples to apples pretty much, both are the best available, top of the food chain……imo……

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...nture-x-mid-arm-lift-kit-stage-1-w-rrd-shocks

Thanks Roky,

With discount, the "no limits" version of that one comes out to just over $3300 for me

MC just got back to me and can get me their GC 2.5 with rocksports for $2700

I think I'm getting real close to hitting the order button on one of them

 

[Roky]

Thanks Roky,

With discount, the "no limits" version of that one comes out to just over $3300 for me

MC just got back to me and can get me their GC 2.5 with rocksports for $3600

I think I'm getting real close to hitting the order button on one of them

The no limits kit is an even better choice if you decide to go the RK route due to its no limits swaybar links, they’re specifically designed for the Rubi electronic disconnect….. they allow the most misalignment without binding …..

 

[GATORB8]

Thanks Roky,

With discount, the "no limits" version of that one comes out to just over $3300 for me

MC just got back to me and can get me their GC 2.5 with rocksports for $3600

I think I'm getting real close to hitting the order button on one of them

Just a reminder to check wheel specs.

You'll need a DS for the Rocksports, not sure on RK's.

 

[jellis4148]

MC Fanboy here, lol. The RK kits are good, and I would say on par with MC. The Zinc coating is nice. No rust, and it repairs itself. You can paint it if you want, and that won't hurt anything. When the bushings finally wear out, they are pretty easy to replace.

 

[DaMaDo]

The no limits kit is an even better choice if you decide to go the RK route due to its no limits swaybar links, they’re specifically designed for the Rubi electronic disconnect….. they allow the most misalignment without binding …..

Yeah, mine has that disconnect, so that's a nice feature

Just a reminder to check wheel specs.

You'll need a DS for the Rocksports, not sure on RK's.

Wheels are the teraflex split nomads with 4.25" BS with 35x12.5" tires.

Initially thought the MC kit was more, but I accidentally put a 3 instead of a 2 in front. The MC is definitely winning in price. I could get the MC + DS for the price of the RK.

Also like that the MC comes with the rear trackbar instead of a bracket for the stock one.

Really wish I could drive both setups to see how they feel on and off road. Still not quite sure how the spring/shock combinations differ on those two.

 

[GATORB8]

Yeah, mine has that disconnect, so that's a nice feature



Wheels are the teraflex split nomads with 4.25" BS with 35x12.5" tires.

Yeah MC is a bit more to start with and I'd need a DS...although I could add the DS before I do real crawling, which probably won't be until the fall.

I do like that zinc coating though

Also like that the MC comes with the rear trackbar

Good to go with either with that backspace.

I'd do adjustable bump stops if the ones in the no limit kit aren't.

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