Brake Caliper Issues

[shagles]

Do you have the part number for the ones you got from northridge? I am looking but the fitments are a bit confusing

I actually got them from amazon cause i needed them the next day. Here's what I got:
Driver front
Passenger front

If I had time to wait, I would have gotten these Synergy ones

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[MitsJeep]

I actually got them from amazon cause i needed them the next day. Here's what I got:
Driver front
Passenger front

If I had time to wait, I would have gotten these Synergy ones

Ah I see thanks, ok great. That was the same northridge part number 8866-03 I was looking at.

How did it go changing the lines themselves? I know I’ll have to bleed, but was there a super high amount of fluid loss or any other complications you had? Just trying to figure out what to expect.

 

[shagles]

Ah I see thanks, ok great. That was the same northridge part number 8866-03 I was looking at.

How did it go changing the lines themselves? I know I’ll have to bleed, but was there a super high amount of fluid loss or any other complications you had? Just trying to figure out what to expect.

It wasn't too bad. I took off the frame side first and put a random rubber cap i found on the end of the hard line to keep the fluid from leaking everywhere. Then took off the caliper side and covered the hole with a finger till i got the new one lined up and did a quick switch from finger to brake line/banjo bolt. I think i lost about 1/4 of a little bottle of fluid between the swap and bleed.

 

[LT1]

Interesting, so the brackets right there by that specific caliper?

Yes. I have been told by a mechanic that it's common among Jeep, Ram and Ford. with this braket design.

 

[JeepinPete]

Simple way to check for a bad brake hose is to step on the brake pedal then release. Brake is locked up. Now crack the bleeder. If fluid comes out under pressure and the brake is no longer locked, something is preventing pressure from releasing, most likely a collapsed hose as mentioned.

 

[ErAcEr]

Ah I see thanks, ok great. That was the same northridge part number 8866-03 I was looking at.

How did it go changing the lines themselves? I know I’ll have to bleed, but was there a super high amount of fluid loss or any other complications you had? Just trying to figure out what to expect.

I just did mine back in April. Same thing happened. Smoked/warped the pads/rotor 700+F°, boiled my coolant at the fill tank (I thought i had blown a head gasket), now the jeep has a coolant smell when the engine bay heats up and I washed the ever living piss out of it. Replaced the Lines with OEM, upon install I can see the OEM lines failing again. The way they crimp the brackets damages the hose, its only a matter of time they start rusting internally. I upgraded the rotors to powerstop stuff.

The repair was easy and straight forward did it solo. Pick up a Flare Nut wrench set so you don't round the nut that connects the line to the metal flare/tip when loosening or final tighten. Break the line loose before unbolting the bracket. Note it is a pain to get it started threaded back with the lube seeping.

The OEM capliper hose crush-washer brass gasket is part# 6502114. measurements are 10mm ID, 14.5mm OD, 1.6mm thick.

Connect all the lines and torque, some say hit the caliper at the banjo for it to seat and give one final torque.

Top off the fluid and use a 1 way break bleeder check valve with a bottle or whatever you fancy if doing solo for clearing the air bubbles. AMAZON thing.


Torque vaules.

Red X is where the blockage is. Both front sides are guaranteed failing.

 

[MitsJeep]

I just did mine back in April. Same thing happened. Smoked/warped the pads/rotor 700+F°, boiled my coolant at the fill tank (I thought i had blown a head gasket), now the jeep has a coolant smell when the engine bay heats up and I washed the ever living piss out of it. Replaced the Lines with OEM, upon install I can see the OEM lines failing again. The way they crimp the brackets damages the hose, its only a matter of time they start rusting internally. I upgraded the rotors to powerstop stuff.

The repair was easy and straight forward did it solo. Pick up a Flare Nut wrench set so you don't round the nut that connects the line to the metal flare/tip when loosening or final tighten. Break the line loose before unbolting the bracket. Note it is a pain to get it started threaded back with the lube seeping.

The OEM capliper hose crush-washer brass gasket is part# 6502114. measurements are 10mm ID, 14.5mm OD, 1.6mm thick.

Connect all the lines and torque, some say hit the caliper at the banjo for it to seat and give one final torque.

Top off the fluid and use a 1 way break bleeder check valve with a bottle or whatever you fancy if doing solo for clearing the air bubbles. AMAZON thing.


Torque vaules.

Red X is where the blockage is. Both front sides are guaranteed failing.

Wow good to see, thanks. I think I am going to order the Clayton COR-1309101 kit to replace the lines as I do not want to replace them with the same thing if they will fail again. I have a new caliper on order as well for that left side in case it is combination caliper and lines. If the lines are still good, might as well replace them while I am in there I guess.

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