Beadlock Nubie Question

[c20040215]

Gone but hasn't forgotten about us.

Dont do him like that.

I still hope he would tell me where he purchase fuel for his Jeep. The bottom of the barrel, cheap and dirty, is what I normally go with but its good to know what's top shelf.

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[jeepingib]

Dont do him like that.

I still hope he would tell me where he purchase fuel for his Jeep. The bottom of the barrel, cheap and dirty, is what I normally go with but its good to know what's top shelf.

I think we scared him.

Don't run away Kenny!

 

[c20040215]

I think we scared him.

Don't run away Kenny!

Who's "we"?

 

[zouch]

how would they add rotating mass?

you're trading one set of bolts and a trim ring with another set of bolts and a lock ring. (in all but the latest versions of the Mopar bits, it's the same number of bolts.)

Here is my 23 JLUR - XR with beadlocks installed. If you are going to run beadlocks you will likely have to mount them yourself and maintain the torque on the rings. No standard shop will mount them , and it is somewhat time consuming to make sure you get them properly seated and then follow the torque sequence. If you have any questions just let me know.

All you need is the ring and hardware, they come as a kit. Negatives would be potential liability since they are not DOT compliant and weight since you are adding rotating mass.

 

[Craigger]

how would they add rotating mass?

you're trading one set of bolts and a trim ring with another set of bolts and a lock ring. (in all but the latest versions of the Mopar bits, it's the same number of bolts.)

bolts are longer and lock rings are heavier

 

[zouch]

i didn't notice any difference in the weight of the trim rings and lock rings.

but even if that's true, i doubt it makes as much of a difference in overall weight as the common differences in tire weights, so i'd consider it insignificant.

bolts are longer and lock rings are heavier

 

[SCJeeps]

i didn't notice any difference in the weight of the trim rings and lock rings.

but even if that's true, i doubt it makes as much of a difference in overall weight as the common differences in tire weights, so i'd consider it insignificant.

I don’t have the weights from the trim ring and bolts to give actual numbers but they are significantly different. Also different is 10 bolts (trim ring) vs beadlock with 25. While it may not seem significant every ounce does matter to the system and unsprung mass will affect performance. Tire selection also makes a difference (heavy vs lighter).

 

[3TV]

Just put 40s on that Jeep and quit worrying about the weight of beadlock bolts.

 

[D00KEY]

Just put 40s on that Jeep and quit worrying about the weight of beadlock bolts.

 

[TEAMSLO]

I have run a few sets of beadlocks from my previous JLURD and my current rig.

Downsides:
- Big box shops won't install but will balance
- Much more maintenance, I check mine each month or more frequent depending on variables
- Risk of a tire coming off, if you have a bolt failure on the highway, you could lose a tire instantly, also potentially injuring or worse to another person from the tire/bead ring and other hw
- Most owners will install themselves which for me is a sore back after a day of this

Upside:
- Many have dual valve stems so quick deflates are possible while keeping a typical rubber valve stem
- I routinely air down to 9, have gone lower on a couple of occasions, never having fear of debeading but could happen on the inner bead but the risk is much less
- Most owners will install themselves which for me is assurance that everything is done correctly

One thing to note while purchasing regular wheels is the valve stem angle. Especially if you buy something like the apex rapid precision valve. Notice before purchase the angle of the valve from the wheel, if its close to the edge/lip, it may not be a good solution as its a hard part. Not like a rubber valve stem which has some flex and tries to resist being torn off. I had a set of bead grip 702's and you can notice its a bit tough to work the apex deflator with the room that you have. I never liked the angle of the valve stem.

Beadlocks generally have plenty of room for these type of valves and a ring to protect it all. My newer beadlocks are from Teraflex and its super convenient to walk around opening the air deflator valves, and as soon as I open the 4th, I walk back around to close them all. takes about 1 minute for the entire process and no other tools needed to monitor as it's set to a psi that you program, just wish they would have a -38 offset.

 

[zouch]

i've held the rings in my hands and the difference between them wasn't what i'd call "significant" relative to a wheel/tire assy (but it wouldn't be the first time i've been accused of being insensitive..?).

only the latest Mopar trim rings cheaped out with only 10 bolts; all the earlier years of models had 25 bolts on Trim Rings just like the Lock Rings.
so, yes, 25 bolts per wheel that are slightly longer, and depending on the style(s) may not weigh the same..

I don’t have the weights from the trim ring and bolts to give actual numbers but they are significantly different. Also different is 10 bolts (trim ring) vs beadlock with 25. While it may not seem significant every ounce does matter to the system and unsprung mass will affect performance. Tire selection also makes a difference (heavy vs lighter).

 

[6.2Blazer]

I admit to not reading every post over the last 7 pages, but here are my comments.

In regards to beadlocks being "illegal", don't think I have ever seen a state law that specifically says a beadlock is illegal. The issue is that most beadlocks are not DOT certified and that makes them not road legal. But you can make a DOT compliant beadlock (there are several on the market) and believe they would be road legal in all states. Keep in mind the military uses a form of beadlock on most of their current rubber tired vehicles including the HMMVEE (Hummer) that has been in production since the '80s.

For the question about most beadlocks only locking the outer bead. Believe it has been answered a few times on this thread, but the vast majority of time you only have an issue with losing this outer bead. There are a few factors for this. The first is that the design of most normal wheels makes the inner bead seat much wider and it's simply hard to knock the bead off at the inner. That is because you need what is called a drop center the tire beads sits down into when mounting them which is typically on the outer bead, so you don't have to push the outer bead much before it drops into this and loses the seat of the bead. The other reason is that most of the forces are applied to the outer bead. When turning, leaned over on the side with weight on one side, etc...typically applies much more force to the outer bead. I've been wheelin' for 30 years running lower tire pressures. I have personally lost an outer bead on a tire many times (obviously not running beadlocks) and have seen other rigs have this happen. But don't think I have ever seen an inner bead by itself come unseated.

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